Reply With QuoteUC, your boat is bad ass.
Nice switch to the V-drive.
"motor got ahold of the prop"
Awesome.
Brian
Isn't that "little" boat a 21?
I've enjoyed reading through your transformation. I've seen a few of the smaller v-drive tunnels in person 2 with a lot of horesepower. I think all of the boats had cav plates and down pedal but the plates were on the outside and the boats didn't have the center pod.
What kind of set up is on Munsons Cougar?
I can't imagine anyone not running a down pedal with a v-drive especially with considerable power like you have.
Good luck, be careful and keep us posted.
The boat sure felt little when the motor got a hold of that prop
The motor feels all the more radical geared to the water like it is now, and I'm just running pump gas and 11# boost.
I only drove one other of these that got me hooked and that was Warp Factors 21' Cougar. I don't remember using a down pedal at all. It just hauled ass and handled great.
Rons 19' Cougar has a center pod. I have'nt talked to him in a while to grill him about the down pedal use.
UC, your boat is bad ass.
Nice switch to the V-drive.
"motor got ahold of the prop"
Awesome.
Brian
I only drove one other of these that got me hooked and that was Warp Factors 21' Cougar. I don't remember using a down pedal at all.
Well, I'm a good deal shy of the power you're making, and I doubt whether you jumped into an unfamiliar V-drive with the owner in the passenger seat and did a hole shot.
Conventional flat-bottom cav plate pedals on top of the tunnel might seem a little high. I made a single "rocker" pedal for mine, pivoting at the stringer with the lower part of the pedal extending into the sponson. Pushing on the top is down pedal, pushing on the bottom is up pedal.
Lacking the cav plate area of a flat, and without moving the engine forward, my guess is that sukka's just going to stand up though. I'm pretty sure I could flip mine over if I used the nitrous from a dead dig. Might need an electronic boost controller to drop boost on the hole shot. Or maybe you could kill some power by overfueling, pulling timing, or a 2 step rev limiter which might not hurt your turbo spool as much as throttle modulation or a boost controller.
Or how about a wheelie bar with skis on it instead of wheels?
Well, I'm a good deal shy of the power you're making, and I doubt whether you jumped into an unfamiliar V-drive with the owner in the passenger seat and did a hole shot.
I was quite shocked when you said "you wanna drive" ?
It was a few years ago now but I remember being real impressed that the accelleration rate remained constant to well over 100 mph.
Then you drove and had me grabbing at the dashboard hanging on for dear life at 115. Looking back, besides the performance, it was just a real nice all around cruiser too. Handled rollers great. Steering was real positive.
Now look what it led to .............
I was quite shocked when you said "you wanna drive" ?
Now look what it led to .............
My boat's done for now, but I can still experiment and build vicariously though you.
I'm havin' fun with your project. Hope you are too. http://www.burgessviolins.com/forumgifs/thumbsup.gif
I may have to go back to work though if people start calling your boat "The Annihilator".
UC -
I think pulling some timing on launch could work quite nicely for you if executed properly. Just think...pulling 7 - 9º of lead just after tip-in would soften your curve as well as elevate your EGTs. Higher EGTs will ready the turbos for the return of the spark when it comes, providing a rapid acceleration of the charge. That way as soon as you get 'er nosed over you can really let that engine get ahold of the prop! But how to trigger it...
I used the pulling-spark trick on a twin-turboed Callaway that I built (correctly) a few years back. The car used an HEI, and I used an MSD spark advance control to retard spark while I loaded the converter on the line (and enabled the trans brake). Turbo bypass valves were opened as the retard came in to allow the charge to remain dynamic by looping it in the bypass circuit. When the steering wheel mounted switch was released at launch, the spark came in and the bypass valves closed...WHOOSH!!! It was pretty awesome, and 335 drag radials were not enough. I could actually use the box as a launch control by varying the amount of retard in step with air density. The control scheme was based on the theory that engine torque would drop when the spark was pulled, yet the converter would still need the same torque input to stall, so airflow through the engine had to rise to stall the converter. That was pretty much the end of all lag at launch.
You DEFINITELY need some extended control surfaces! Holy crap!
Are you still running at Hardy? Saw you up there a couple years back...I was in the Spectra 20 v-drive. We'll be up there this summer a few times, so I'll keep an eye open for your new water rod. The engine was in your jet when I saw you last.
UC -
I think pulling some timing on launch could work quite nicely for you if executed properly. Just think...pulling 7 - 9º of lead just after tip-in would soften your curve as well as elevate your EGTs. Higher EGTs will ready the turbos for the return of the spark when it comes, providing a rapid acceleration of the charge. That way as soon as you get 'er nosed over you can really let that engine get ahold of the prop! But how to trigger it...
I used the pulling-spark trick on a twin-turboed Callaway that I built (correctly) a few years back. The car used an HEI, and I used an MSD spark advance control to retard spark while I loaded the converter on the line (and enabled the trans brake). Turbo bypass valves were opened as the retard came in to allow the charge to remain dynamic by looping it in the bypass circuit. When the steering wheel mounted switch was released at launch, the spark came in and the bypass valves closed...WHOOSH!!! It was pretty awesome, and 335 drag radials were not enough. I could actually use the box as a launch control by varying the amount of retard in step with air density. The control scheme was based on the theory that engine torque would drop when the spark was pulled, yet the converter would still need the same torque input to stall, so airflow through the engine had to rise to stall the converter. That was pretty much the end of all lag at launch.
You DEFINITELY need some extended control surfaces! Holy crap!
Are you still running at Hardy? Saw you up there a couple years back...I was in the Spectra 20 v-drive. We'll be up there this summer a few times, so I'll keep an eye open for your new water rod. The engine was in your jet when I saw you last.
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