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View Full Version : Should I Install Moulding around My 20 foot Hawiian



Hawaiian
04-01-2001, 07:07 PM
What are the up's and downs of installing moulding on a boat? Do boats require moulding for ridgity or other? Is is a tidious project toblend the seam in? Or is it just to fill gap and sand smooth? Any help will be greatly applauded? Thanx to all.

ULTRA28
04-01-2001, 07:55 PM
Does your boat currently have moulding? Are you talking about redoing your moulding or adding it to a boat that currently does not have it? Moulding typically serves two purposes, it hides the bond line where the top deck meets the hull, and is a bumper rail for docks and such. It would depend on if the boat is a shoebox joint or butt joint bond to determine whether or not it makes the boat more rigid or less rigid.

Hawaiian
04-02-2001, 04:26 AM
Originally posted by ULTRA28:
Does your boat currently have moulding? Are you talking about redoing your moulding or adding it to a boat that currently does not have it? Moulding typically serves two purposes, it hides the bond line where the top deck meets the hull, and is a bumper rail for docks and such. It would depend on if the boat is a shoebox joint or butt joint bond to determine whether or not it makes the boat more rigid or less rigid.
It is a butt joint it had the ugly aluminum with blk insert. I was gonna fill and sand the joint so it is flush and no joint shows. Is this possible. I will hve to be very carefull around docks and etc?
Thanx for any feedback.
[This message has been edited by Hawaiian (edited April 02, 2001).]

ULTRA28
04-02-2001, 06:52 AM
Butt joint bonds do not require moulding for strength. You might need to re-glass the bond from the inside depending on how many holes have been put through the bond line for the existing moulding. Otherwise it should be no problem to fill and sand the joint smooth as long as your willing to do the extensive amount of finish work it takes to make it look good. You will probably need to glass the outside of the joint to keep the bond line from cracking through. Don't just try to bondo or duraglass the joint thinking it will not show later.
[This message has been edited by ULTRA28 (edited April 02, 2001).]

gmocnik
04-02-2001, 07:18 AM
my two cents...
i restored a 73 hallett daycruiser (this months hot boat magazine)...the hull (affectionatly known as the "toilet bowl" deck) because it did not have any rub rails looks very clean but the constant repair work from dock bumps and scrapes is a hassle..
maybe you are a better driver than me!!!!!
new anodized rub rails and new rubber would be my choice.....

Hawaiian
04-02-2001, 07:18 AM
Originally posted by ULTRA28:
Butt joint bonds do not require moulding for strength. You might need to re-glass the bond from the inside depending on how many holes have been put through the bond line for the existing moulding. Otherwise it should be no problem to fill and sand the joint smooth as long as your willing to do the extensive amount of finish work it takes to make it look good. You will probably need to glass the outside of the joint to keep the bond line from cracking through. Don't just try to bondo or duraglass the joint thinking it will not show later.
[This message has been edited by ULTRA28 (edited April 02, 2001).]
What is the proper way to fill the joint so it does not crack through?

Ken Marsh
04-02-2001, 09:45 AM
Will have to get active here since the RJB seems to be down.
Have had boats both ways. For a knock around boat definitely prefer the rub rail. In fact am redoing mine now. The boat is a shoe box joint and it is broken in an area. Under certain conditions it will dump water on the drivers feet.
Remove the rub rail, epoxy in a three inch strip of glass on the inside and about a inch and a half on the out side. Sand it off smooth, repaint and re install rail.
There must be something better than pop rivets for fasteners. They leak and tend to break out of the hull. Anybody have a suggestion? Km

spectras only
04-02-2001, 02:21 PM
My 20 spectra has the anodized aluminum with plastic insert.It's still in great shape and easy to replace if it needs it.{pop riveted].My 24 however has the molding T-bolted every 7 inches and will be a b... to remove while I'm restoring the hull and deck surfaces.I'll go the pop rivet route thats easy to replace when things go the wrong way.I always use an army of fenders anyway to fend off the odd crazy boater!!!You can have a wide choice of colours to match your boat colour with the aluminum moldings.Larger boats I like with stainless moldings like Donzis do.