bearring buddie keeps coming off????

[river chaser]

I blew a bearing about 2 months ago, fixed it, put a new bearing buddie on it and everything was fine; Now my bearring buddies keep popping off when I drive?????
It's not the same one either, first driver spindle, now the passenger spindle bearing buddie popped off????
any suggestions why suddenly this is happening to me????

[lucky]

apperently they're not your buddy ???? to much grease ???

[LAFD]

does your trailor have brakes? if so they might be stickin. maybe...

[HocusPocus]

apperently they're not your buddy ???? to much grease ???
thats what i was thinking..

[mondorally]

Boat mechanic buddy of mine says too much grease will pop them off once they're heated. I was thanking him on Saturday (on cell while towing boat) for hooking me up on parts (brakes, bearing buddys, etc.) and what do you know, I look in the mirror to see a bearing buddy bouncing down the street. Thankfully it was right near the house.
I'm thinking of putting a drop of jb weld or something on next time.
Justin

[river chaser]

Is there such thing as too much grease?
I have surge brakes, but the not so buddie is coming off the spindle with no brake.
It just so happens that the bearing buddie coming off is the two that I changed.
Did I forget something? super glue?
It's costing me a grip to keep buying these bearing buddies :notam:

[76BARRON]

here is a theory of mine........bearing buddies are supposed to be pumped up
(not all the way)BEFORE trailer is submerged. Why you ask ? Because hub's are often warm or even hot.. and when submerged in cool or cold water the hubs contract and with hub's pumped up piston will pull back and all is well. BUT! If pistons are not pumped up(bottomed out)when hub's cool/contract
piston can not pull back ,then hub's will create suction and will suck water thru the seals(bad) then when hub's heat up later it will build presure(steam?)
and will push bearing buddie off of hub or even push off the inner seal.
That is assuming that nothing else is wrong :notam:
Remember it just my theory :D

[Chase]

Are they the right size...I know I had to aquire a new buddy early this spring, and there are many diffrent sizes, where an exact measurement with a caliper was required to determine the right one (size) as there are several sizes very close to each other in measurements

[Forkin' Crazy]

76, I guess that is possible, but they shouldn't get that hot anyway. Try staking the mating surface of the bearing buddy with a center punch. Not too much at first, trial and error, don't want it to be too tight.
Too much grease may be the culprit. I pump mine until the spring is compressed and stop.

[phebus]

You are just supposed to put enough grease in, where you can rock the inner piston.

[craiginlaverne]

i agree with the too much grease to a point .try calling the trailer manufacturer and see what they say. maybe its been a problem for a while. i work for a trailer manufacturer and we had that problem for a short time. it wasnt too much grease, it was the hub. the buddy covers were coming off during delivery to our dealers. they were even coming off when we would move them with a forklift!!! (we recalled the bad hubs). we started buying hubs for someone else. they were pieces of crap. from CHINA!!! we went back to our old vender. . your hub can be warped form getting too hot. i've seen that with customers who bring their trailers in for service. we build ALOT of trailers(galvanized) for big(HEAVY) fishingboats used in saltwater. those guys are HARD on their trailers and their brakes. good luck on your quest!!! :rollside:

[Nord]

Too much greese and you should "burp" the buddy after it goes on, this creates a vacuum so it doens't fly off!!
I had this problem 2 years ago.
I actually blew a bearing buddy, which led to a new 1/2 axle, no fun!!!

[superdave013]

to much grease

[mike37]

stop stroking it and it wont pop off

[craiginlaverne]

nord is right. try that too!!!! :rollside:

[Rexone]

too much grease.
you can also bang em with a hammer to "slightly" egg shape them then pound them in (more preload against the hub seems to keep them in problem hubs a little better).

[Tom Brown]

you can also bang em with a hammer to "slightly" egg shape them then pound them in (more preload against the hub seems to keep them in problem hubs a little better).
My BBs seemed a little loose so I did exactly what Mike described and they went in tight and stayed on.

[Rexone]

My BBs seemed a little loose and they went in tight and stayed on.
:jawdrop:

[rivercrazy]

Make sure you tires/rims are very well balanced

[termiteguy]

this happened to my old boat i blew out the bearings on the road did not notice it till it was too late it wrecked the spindel. i had the spindel replaced the next trip out the bearing buddies fell out . the problem was the hub got hot and warped . it was fine when it was cold when it got hot it fell out . i had to buy a new hub..........good luck :hammer2:

[u4ea32]

Get rid of the bearing buddies. A total waste of time and money. Totally bogus.
Your inner seal is not protected by a bearing buddy at all: if its worn, water can get in. Your outer bearings need to be covered by any standard hub cover. That works.
When I was having trouble with bearings, it turned out that my brakes were screwed up. The drum brakes would not go on consistently so I changed them to discs. Then one of the disc caliper brakets was bent, so one brake did not fully release, causing the hub to get hot, the grease to get thin, and leak out, and blow up the bearings.
So I stopped taking my trailer to a shop, and did it myself. Was a huge mess, took a long time, gave me a sore back... but I got it done. Then I did the next one, less hassle. And the next, even less hassle. And the 4th, no problem at all.
Now, I always carry everything I need. I check the hubs when I stop to be sure none are too hot. I don't overload the trailer (I used to drive around with 1200 lbs of fuel alone in the boat -- no more). I check the inside and the outside of the wheels for grease.
And when I see grease leaking out, I re-lube, then and there.
I don't use bearing buddies any more, just the regular old cheapies with the rubber cap. I pull the cap off, plug the grease gun on the zirk fitting, and pump in the new grease until the old grease comes out and new grease comes out.
I have axles that allow me to fit a grease gun to a nipple on the end of the axle, then pump a load of grease in, forcing the old grease all the way from the inner seal and out the outer bearing race, and back out at me and all over some paper towels I keep handy.
No more problems. No bearing buddies.
My boat weighs 10,000 lbs, on a trailer with a 10500 lbs capacity, so I am too close to the limit. But I no longer have problems, I just keep my eye on it. I've gone to the river from LA in 100+ heat, and I've also launched at least a dozen times in the ocean before I had any problem, and then I just had to re-lube one axle. Took a few minutes longer than it took my wife to pick up my order from the Starbucks I parked in front of.
Easy. No fear. No black magic. No bearing buddies.
Just grease and paper towels and every tool I need to do the job (including my hydraulic floor jack and a complete spare bearings in case I need to replace bearings on the road). And even stuff to clean my hands afterwards.

[Tom Brown]

Get rid of the bearing buddies....
That sounds like a full time job.
I put on a set of bearing buddies with fresh bearings and towed my trailer a few thousand miles. I expect to get a few thousand more. I check them annually and I don't have a bunch of greasy rags and a grease gun in my boat or tow vehicle.
Isn't that all good stuff? :confused:

[river chaser]

Thanks for the updates!
I can bet I probably put too much grease in the buddie :hammerhea
I hammered the new bearing buddie back on, but will caution on how much grease to use!
Thanks again everyone!

[Forkin' Crazy]

That sounds like a full time job.
I put on a set of bearing buddies with fresh bearings and towed my trailer a few thousand miles. I expect to get a few thousand more. I check them annually and I don't have a bunch of greasy rags and a grease gun in my boat or tow vehicle.
Isn't that all good stuff? :confused:
I have 4 boat trailers now and all but one has bearing buddies. Several have made some fairly long trips. One in particular is way over due.... been together for 5 seasons and hasn't been apart. It is also the most frequently used of the 4. My newest came with a grease zerk in the center of the spindle, so I assume that it greases from the inside out. I do grease them all frequently too.
I do carry a temp gun and check a few times for the first 100 miles.

[Just Tool'n]

Get rid of the bearing buddies, there is a new product out there that takes the place of the bearing buddies, & converts it to an oil bath type lube system.
This is what they use on heavy duty trucks, on the front axles.
When the next time my trailer needs servicing, like I did 2 years ago, I smoked a bearing, I changed all of my bearing & the bearing buddies, I wish the oil bath type was out then.
It will get retro-fitted, with them, plus a change over too disc brakes at the same time.

[HCS]

Mine came off. Because some jerk ass stole em.

[Chase]

Get rid of the bearing buddies, there is a new product out there that takes the place of the bearing buddies, & converts it to an oil bath type lube system.
This is what they use on heavy duty trucks, on the front axles.
When the next time my trailer needs servicing, like I did 2 years ago, I smoked a bearing, I changed all of my bearing & the bearing buddies, I wish the oil bath type was out then.
It will get retro-fitted, with them, plus a change over too disc brakes at the same time.
Ok I am intrested...can you provide more information?? :idea:

[ROZ]

1. How can I tell if I have genuine Bearing Buddy® wheel bearing protectors on my trailer? Genuine Bearing Buddy® units have an adhesive label on the Bearing Buddy® itself, with the words "Bearing Buddy®" printed on the label. If it doesn't say "Bearing Buddy®" on the label then it is a copy, and not a "genuine Bearing Buddy®."
top of page
2. What can cause a Bearing Buddy® to fall out of the hub? The most common reason is the hub bore diameter is wrong, because the hub manufacturer did not maintain quality control during production. Other possible reasons are listed below.
The spindle may be too long, which could cause the nut or cotter pin on the end of the spindle to push against the Bearing Buddy® piston (when grease level is low), eventually forcing it out of the hub.
Excessive removal and reinstallation of a Bearing Buddy® can wear down the Bearing Buddy® shoulder (the part that fits into the hub), which decreases the interference fit between the Bearing Buddy® shoulder and the hub bore.
An out-of-balance tire and/or incorrect bearing torque can cause excessive "wheel play" or wobbling, which can cause a Bearing Buddy® to work its way out of the hub.
Installing the wrong size Bearing Buddy® for the hub bore diameter.
Theft.
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3. With Bearing Buddy® installed, how often do I need to repack my bearings? We don't recommend inspecting your bearings more frequently than once every 5 years, provided you properly maintain the grease level in the hubs, and your bearings and seals are in new condition when you install genuine Bearing Buddy®. The Bearing Buddy® system maintains a constant pressure of 3 p.s.i. on the grease inside the hub. Since the hub is always full of grease (with proper maintenance) there is no need to repack your bearings. Some customers have reported that their Bearing Buddy® units were removed for the first time after 10 to 15 years of use, and the bearings still looked like new.
top of page
4. How do I determine the correct Bearing Buddy® model for my trailer? Measure the inside diameter of the hub or the outside diameter of the dust cap shoulder (the part that fits into the hub) with a caliper or micrometer. The measurement needs to be in thousandths of inches. Most marine dealers, auto parts stores and service stations have a caliper or micrometer and will gladly measure your dust cap for you. You can also use a "size gauge card" (see Question 15 below). To select the correct Bearing Buddy® Model to fit your hub, refer to the "Selection Chart".
top of page
5. How do I install Bearing Buddy®? Please see our "Installation" page.
top of page
6. How do I remove Bearing Buddy®? Lay a block of wood against the side of the Bearing Buddy® and strike the wood with a hammer. Place the wood on the opposite side and hit again. Continue this procedure until you "walk" the Bearing Buddy® out of the hub. Don't disassemble the Bearing Buddy® to attempt to remove it.
top of page
7. How do I check the grease level in the hub? Grease can be added to the hub through an easily accessible grease fitting located in the center of the Bearing Buddy® piston. Lubricant level can be checked by pressing on the edge of the piston. If you can rock or move the piston, the hub is properly filled. If the piston won't rock or move, add grease until piston moves outward about 1/8 inch. When adding grease, always use a hand grease gun. An automatic grease gun will destroy the hub's inner seal.
top of page
8. What type of lubricant should I use? Fill the hubs completely with a high quality, multipurpose No. 2 grade lubricant (e.g., the type used for automotive suspensions). Don't use heavy, fibrous greases; don't mix grease types.
top of page
9. What is the Bearing Buddy® Model 1980A with the blue ring? Bearing Buddy® Model 1980A has a blue ring, which acts as a visual lubricant level indicator inside the hub. If the blue ring extends 1/8" past the snap ring (located inside the barrel of the Bearing Buddy®), the hub is completely full. If the blue ring is flush with the snap ring, the hub needs grease. To view the snap ring see our "How Bearing Buddy® Works" page.
top of page
10. Does Bearing Buddy® make a threaded unit? Yes. Model 1980T is the threaded unit. It is available in chrome-plated or stainless steel. When installing the Model 1980T, apply Permatex or some other greaseproof gasket cement to the Bearing Buddy® threads, and then screw Bearing Buddy® into the hub, hand tight.
top of page
11. Where can I buy Bearing Buddy®? Most marine dealers and some automotive parts stores sell Bearing Buddy®. Check the Yellow Pages for a dealer near you, and call first to confirm that the dealer sells genuine Bearing Buddy® and not a copy. If you are unable to locate a dealer, contact us with your location and we will help you locate the nearest dealer.
top of page
12. What if none of the Bearing Buddy® models fit my hub, can I order a custom-made Bearing Buddy®? Yes. The factory manufactures custom sizes. Prices range from $40 to $50 per pair. For a price quote, you will need to provide us with your hub bore diameter or the outside diameter of the dust cap shoulder (the part that fits into the hub). Measurements must be in thousandths of inches.
top of page
13. What is the Bearing Buddy® Bra? The Bearing Buddy® Bra is a vinyl cover that fits over the Bearing Buddy® to contain excess grease and keep it off tires and wheels. Bearing Buddy® Bras are available in black. For more information, see our "Bearing Buddy Bra" page.
top of page
14. What products does Bearing Buddy, Inc. sell? Bearing Buddy® wheel bearing protectors, Bearing Buddy® Bras and Spindle Seal kits.
top of page
15. What is the size gauge card? It is a credit card size measuring tool that will measure your trailer's dust cap, to help you select the correct Bearing Buddy® model. It will measure the five most common size dust caps, which represents about 95% of all dust cap sizes. For an illustration of its use, see our "Size Gauge Card" page. The size gauge cards are available at marine dealers. If your marine dealer does not have size gauge cards in stock, they can get them from their distributor.
top of page
16. What is the difference between Bearing Buddy® model 1980 and model 1980A? These models both fit a hub bore diameter of 1.980". Model 1980A has a blue ring which acts as a visual lubricant level indicator inside the hub. If the blue ring extends 1/8" past the snap ring (located inside the barrel of the Bearing Buddy®), the hub is completely full. If the blue ring is flush with the snap ring, the hub needs grease. Model 1980 is the same as Model 1980A, but does not have the blue ring
(208) 229-0812
I know they're in San Marcos, Ca , so the phone above must be their factory rep/distributor number...

[river chaser]

Ya know,
Thinking tonight I made a U- turn in a gas station in banning and I noticed the tires were bowing outward due to the trailer not moving, and me cranking on the wheel to make the u turn.... Maybe this loosened the bearing buddie?
I bought the blue ring buddies, and lost one on the way to the lake, and lost my old bearing buddies with the snap ring coming back on the opposite side.
I'm guessing I may have put too much grease in? and the u turn popped my other side... I never have in 10 years had these problems...
maybe just a dark cloud over me for bearing buddies :frown:

[Hallett19]

I just use hose clamps. I grease the living sheeat out of mine.

[HCS]

1. How can I tell if I have genuine Bearing Buddy® wheel bearing protectors on my trailer? Genuine Bearing Buddy® units have an adhesive label on the Bearing Buddy® itself, with the words "Bearing Buddy®" printed on the label. If it doesn't say "Bearing Buddy®" on the label then it is a copy, and not a "genuine Bearing Buddy®."
top of page
2. What can cause a Bearing Buddy® to fall out of the hub? The most common reason is the hub bore diameter is wrong, because the hub manufacturer did not maintain quality control during production. Other possible reasons are listed below.
The spindle may be too long, which could cause the nut or cotter pin on the end of the spindle to push against the Bearing Buddy® piston (when grease level is low), eventually forcing it out of the hub.
Excessive removal and reinstallation of a Bearing Buddy® can wear down the Bearing Buddy® shoulder (the part that fits into the hub), which decreases the interference fit between the Bearing Buddy® shoulder and the hub bore.
An out-of-balance tire and/or incorrect bearing torque can cause excessive "wheel play" or wobbling, which can cause a Bearing Buddy® to work its way out of the hub.
Installing the wrong size Bearing Buddy® for the hub bore diameter.
Theft.
top of page
3. With Bearing Buddy® installed, how often do I need to repack my bearings? We don't recommend inspecting your bearings more frequently than once every 5 years, provided you properly maintain the grease level in the hubs, and your bearings and seals are in new condition when you install genuine Bearing Buddy®. The Bearing Buddy® system maintains a constant pressure of 3 p.s.i. on the grease inside the hub. Since the hub is always full of grease (with proper maintenance) there is no need to repack your bearings. Some customers have reported that their Bearing Buddy® units were removed for the first time after 10 to 15 years of use, and the bearings still looked like new.
top of page
4. How do I determine the correct Bearing Buddy® model for my trailer? Measure the inside diameter of the hub or the outside diameter of the dust cap shoulder (the part that fits into the hub) with a caliper or micrometer. The measurement needs to be in thousandths of inches. Most marine dealers, auto parts stores and service stations have a caliper or micrometer and will gladly measure your dust cap for you. You can also use a "size gauge card" (see Question 15 below). To select the correct Bearing Buddy® Model to fit your hub, refer to the "Selection Chart".
top of page
5. How do I install Bearing Buddy®? Please see our "Installation" page.
top of page
6. How do I remove Bearing Buddy®? Lay a block of wood against the side of the Bearing Buddy® and strike the wood with a hammer. Place the wood on the opposite side and hit again. Continue this procedure until you "walk" the Bearing Buddy® out of the hub. Don't disassemble the Bearing Buddy® to attempt to remove it.
top of page
7. How do I check the grease level in the hub? Grease can be added to the hub through an easily accessible grease fitting located in the center of the Bearing Buddy® piston. Lubricant level can be checked by pressing on the edge of the piston. If you can rock or move the piston, the hub is properly filled. If the piston won't rock or move, add grease until piston moves outward about 1/8 inch. When adding grease, always use a hand grease gun. An automatic grease gun will destroy the hub's inner seal.
top of page
8. What type of lubricant should I use? Fill the hubs completely with a high quality, multipurpose No. 2 grade lubricant (e.g., the type used for automotive suspensions). Don't use heavy, fibrous greases; don't mix grease types.
top of page
9. What is the Bearing Buddy® Model 1980A with the blue ring? Bearing Buddy® Model 1980A has a blue ring, which acts as a visual lubricant level indicator inside the hub. If the blue ring extends 1/8" past the snap ring (located inside the barrel of the Bearing Buddy®), the hub is completely full. If the blue ring is flush with the snap ring, the hub needs grease. To view the snap ring see our "How Bearing Buddy® Works" page.
top of page
10. Does Bearing Buddy® make a threaded unit? Yes. Model 1980T is the threaded unit. It is available in chrome-plated or stainless steel. When installing the Model 1980T, apply Permatex or some other greaseproof gasket cement to the Bearing Buddy® threads, and then screw Bearing Buddy® into the hub, hand tight.
top of page
11. Where can I buy Bearing Buddy®? Most marine dealers and some automotive parts stores sell Bearing Buddy®. Check the Yellow Pages for a dealer near you, and call first to confirm that the dealer sells genuine Bearing Buddy® and not a copy. If you are unable to locate a dealer, contact us with your location and we will help you locate the nearest dealer.
top of page
12. What if none of the Bearing Buddy® models fit my hub, can I order a custom-made Bearing Buddy®? Yes. The factory manufactures custom sizes. Prices range from $40 to $50 per pair. For a price quote, you will need to provide us with your hub bore diameter or the outside diameter of the dust cap shoulder (the part that fits into the hub). Measurements must be in thousandths of inches.
top of page
13. What is the Bearing Buddy® Bra? The Bearing Buddy® Bra is a vinyl cover that fits over the Bearing Buddy® to contain excess grease and keep it off tires and wheels. Bearing Buddy® Bras are available in black. For more information, see our "Bearing Buddy Bra" page.
top of page
14. What products does Bearing Buddy, Inc. sell? Bearing Buddy® wheel bearing protectors, Bearing Buddy® Bras and Spindle Seal kits.
top of page
15. What is the size gauge card? It is a credit card size measuring tool that will measure your trailer's dust cap, to help you select the correct Bearing Buddy® model. It will measure the five most common size dust caps, which represents about 95% of all dust cap sizes. For an illustration of its use, see our "Size Gauge Card" page. The size gauge cards are available at marine dealers. If your marine dealer does not have size gauge cards in stock, they can get them from their distributor.
top of page
16. What is the difference between Bearing Buddy® model 1980 and model 1980A? These models both fit a hub bore diameter of 1.980". Model 1980A has a blue ring which acts as a visual lubricant level indicator inside the hub. If the blue ring extends 1/8" past the snap ring (located inside the barrel of the Bearing Buddy®), the hub is completely full. If the blue ring is flush with the snap ring, the hub needs grease. Model 1980 is the same as Model 1980A, but does not have the blue ring
(208) 229-0812
I know they're in San Marcos, Ca , so the phone above must be their factory rep/distributor number...
Damn! Now there's a bearing buddy story.

[DJ Sound Technique]

Okay, ill bite with antother Bearing Buddy story / problem
I had a similar problem, took the boat to Big Bear about a month ago, noticed when I got there that one of the buddy caps had popped of and spun a little grease out of the hub. Didn't think much of it. Drove down the hill stopped in Yucaipa, both caps were gone and now lots of grease spun out onto the tires. This was on both the axles that have the disk brakes only, so it was related to a brake heat issue.
The next weekend, took them completely apart, inspected the bearings and the axles, the bearings had a tiny bit of bluing but the axles were perfect. I replaced all the bearings and even turned the rotors since I had it apart already, put in new grease seals and put it back together.
Everything okay, right? wrong......http://www2.***boat.com/forums/newreply.php?do=newreply&noquote=1&p=1530181#
Frown
Took off to Havasu the next weekend, NO problems all the way there (10 east through Erinburg) no hot hubs, caps stayed on. Enjoyed the weekend, headed home on Sunday night, came down 95 and right as I was getting into Parker, both caps on the brake axles were gone and grease already starting to come out, the blue pistons were pushed WAY out from the pressure. Obviously pressure is building up in the hubs when they get hot but I am not sure why.
I cleaned up the hubs, burped out as much of the pressure as I could by twisting the pistion a bit and drove it home. seemed okay the rest of the way. I thought they had too much grease, but I have the ones with the blue rings that should stick out 1/8" past the snap ring and rock back and forth when full. The ones on the no brake axles do that fine. If I fill the ones on the brake axles that full, the pressure builds up as soon as they get hot.
Anyone have any ideas? I towed that trailer 3 or 4k miles before this with NO trouble.

[superdave013]

All i know is I hope I'm not behind one of you guys when that bearing buddy is boucning down the freeway. lol I bet one could do a number to the front of a car.

[DJ Sound Technique]

It's just the caps on mine not the actual buddy!

[Dusty Times]

Ok I am intrested...can you provide more information?? :idea:
You can only run oil bath hubs if you are lifting your boat off. They are much better than grease but you cannot dunk them in water. Atleast not at this time. The manufactures need to come up with a different seal to keep them waterproof. Right now they are running the same seals as you would on any other big trailer on the highway.

[river chaser]

Well,
I put another blue ring bearing buddie back on the trailer for the 3rd time :confused:
I'll try putting in less grease, just enough to make the blue ring rise out a bit :idea:
I hope not to loose the bearings again, as a bouncing tire is no fun going down the road!!!

[Just Tool'n]

Ok I am intrested...can you provide more information?? :idea:
try this website, they have a local outlet I just go get my parts from.
Call them, I am sure they can fill you in on these products.
I am sure they sell products to V/M boat trailers right here in fresno.