HP 500 Water Pump Problems

[BALLSDEEP]

Has anyone ever had problems with water pump impellers and housings? I replace mine each summer before the season begins. This season, I have gone through 3 total, any ideas what would cause them to grenade so frequently?

[phebus]

My only guess would be shallow water running (sucking up debris), or all the plant growth that was in the water. Or, if you ever start the boat out of the water.
A sea strainer may be in your future.

[Beer-30]

This maybe be stupid, but you don't EVER fire it up w/o water, right?

[soupersonic]

Pull your hoses that go from the t stat down to where it comes into the block and flush them real good ,there could be pieces of an old impeller stuck in the cooler at the bottom rear of the block , they might be working back and forth thru your cooling system eating up the impeller. It happened to me before.

[BALLSDEEP]

Hey guys thanks for your input, I should have stated that the boat does have a sea strainer, I have checked all coolong lines and have never seen debris or old impelar pieces. I never start the boat unless its in the water or the hose is hooked up to it.
The last few times on the river is where I have had problems. Not sure what to do wanted to see if anyone else has experienced these problems.

[phebus]

If most of your boating has been done in the Parker area, there is a good chance that you are sucking up used condoms or hypodermic syringes.
My advice would be to stick to Havasu. :D :idea: :crossx:

[nextel4u]

I have 500 EFI's in my Hallett, my mechanic put Billett Impellers in the Water Pumps, supposed to last longer I was told.
Not sure if this helps
John

[BALLSDEEP]

If most of your boating has been done in the Parker area, there is a good chance that you are sucking up used condoms or hypodermic syringes.
My advice would be to stick to Havasu. :D :idea: :crossx:
Thanks, thats why I stay on Havasu. There I just have to watch for the people on speed and cooking meth.

[TCHB]

Sucking sand from shallow water will ruin the impeller and housing.

[BALLSDEEP]

I have 500 EFI's in my Hallett, my mechanic put Billett Impellers in the Water Pumps, supposed to last longer I was told.
Not sure if this helps
John
Interesting.............Where do you get these? I never knew there was such a thing, I thought you had to replace the whole unit (housing/impeller)

[phebus]

Might want to check theese out. http://www.trickmarine.net/productdetail.cfm?productid=369

[nextel4u]

I am not the best guy to talk to about engine stuff, I can drive my boat and clean it, when it comes to working on it, I leave that to the professionals.
I am sure some of the other board members here will know, or if you want I can call my mechanic you and get back to you.
I could be wrong, maybe the housing is Billett, not the impeller.

[Beer-30]

Here's the kit from TrickMarine.
It's actually a KPM piece. I am strongly considering this for the piece of mind.
http://www.trickmarine.net/images/productimages/1arebuildkita1.jpg
Water Pump Rebuild Kit
Get the advantages of a KPM pump without the cost of purchasing new. This rebuild kit works with your stock Merc/Jabsco pump. It features "run dry" technology and has a one year guarantee against impeller failure. Billet aluminum housing. Hardcoat anodized. Our kits are shipped complete with polished stainless steel hose fittings. Others sell these kits without the fittings.
ITEM # DESCRIPTION PRICE COLOR QTY
368-KPM-R Water Pump Rebuild Kit $189.00
Clear Annodize

[Beer-30]

Aw, ya beat me to it, Phebus!

[phebus]

I wished KPM made them as a direct replacement on the 496 motor. I hear they are working on it, but haven't brought it to market yet.
My water pump housing is getting pretty scored, and next year, I will need to replace the entire unit rather then just the impeller.

[Beer-30]

Ah. I thought it was the same pump. Ok, well, I'll wait with ya!! I think Jabsco makes a whole replacement for us.

[Havasu Hangin']

Here's the kit from TrickMarine.
It's actually a KPM piece. I am strongly considering this for the piece of mind.
http://www.trickmarine.net/images/productimages/1arebuildkita1.jpg
Water Pump Rebuild Kit
Get the advantages of a KPM pump without the cost of purchasing new. This rebuild kit works with your stock Merc/Jabsco pump. It features "run dry" technology and has a one year guarantee against impeller failure. Billet aluminum housing. Hardcoat anodized. Our kits are shipped complete with polished stainless steel hose fittings. Others sell these kits without the fittings.
ITEM # DESCRIPTION PRICE COLOR QTY
368-KPM-R Water Pump Rebuild Kit $189.00
Clear Annodize
That's what I put on mine...they work great.

[C-2]

I wished KPM made them as a direct replacement on the 496 motor. I hear they are working on it, but haven't brought it to market yet.
My water pump housing is getting pretty scored, and next year, I will need to replace the entire unit rather then just the impeller.
My neighbor had his housing machined (at a non-marine shop I might add), cost him $40. Works great. No need to spend $350 for the entire unit.
I sure wish some machinist on this board would start doing it regularly, could save people some coin and be a nice little change maker since it's my understanding the housings are backlogged. hint hint :idea: :idea:

[BadKachina]

You might want to read this before you jump on one of those KPM pumps............. :rolleyes:
http://www.offshoreonly.com/forums/showthread.php?t=113546&highlight=kpm+pump

[BadKachina]

If you are running a strainer, most will leak after time. If you are sucking air and not water it will cause your pump to get hot and destroy your impeller and housing. Make sure every time you replace the impeller that you have all the pieces, reassemble it on your bench and keep flushing from your thermostat backwards until you have all the pieces. They usually end up in your oil cooler.

[soupersonic]

If you are running a strainer, most will leak after time. If you are sucking air and not water it will cause your pump to get hot and destroy your impeller and housing. Make sure every time you replace the impeller that you have all the pieces, reassemble it on your bench and keep flushing from your thermostat backwards until you have all the pieces. They usually end up in your oil cooler.
Yep i flushed mine good ( i thought) till my mechanic flushed it and got some more pieces out :rolleyes:

[voodoomedman]

I have a question about running it out of water.
I don't do it for a long time just to be stupid but...
I will fire it up for about 5 seconds at the house just so I'm not one of those guys that gets on the ramp and then to boat won't start and then I'm goofing around holding up traffic. I wouldn't think that just a couple of seconds would hurt since it would take that amount of time for the water to get up to the pump anyway while in the water.
What do you all think about that????

[BadKachina]

I wouldn't start it peroid without water, that's the easiest way to ruin your impeller. You could bump it if you are that worried about it and make sure your battery isn't dead, other than that if it ran when you put it up it should start at the ramp.

[voodoomedman]

I wouldn't start it peroid without water, that's the easiest way to ruin your impeller. You could bump it if you are that worried about it and make sure your battery isn't dead, other than that if it ran when you put it up it should start at the ramp.
Excuse me if I sound dumb but what do you mean bump it????? Are you talking about the stereo??? I pretty much know it will start since I take very good care of it and I charge my batteries but I just check to be sure and thought that 5 seconds or less wouldn't hurt since it takes a couple seconds for the water to get there anyway. But if you all think it will hurt it then I will wait til the ramp but I will start it before I'm off the trailer though. I really hate those dudes that float sideways in front of the ramp and then their damn boat won't run.

[Beer-30]

Excuse me if I sound dumb but what do you mean bump it????? Are you talking about the stereo??? I pretty much know it will start since I take very good care of it and I charge my batteries but I just check to be sure and thought that 5 seconds or less wouldn't hurt since it takes a couple seconds for the water to get there anyway. But if you all think it will hurt it then I will wait til the ramp but I will start it before I'm off the trailer though. I really hate those dudes that float sideways in front of the ramp and then their damn boat won't run.
It doesn't take but a second or two, IF THAT for the water to get to the pump. Never ever start it out of water / without water attached.
I started mine one day and I couldn't get across the cockpit, over the engine hatch, and stick my head under the swim step fast enough to see the dry tips. I was bustin ass to get there to see how long it took for water to get through the system and out of the tips. It's faster than you think.
Even though I charge the batteries and keep them on a maintainer, I always just back the transom in and put the drive down into the water. I light it off or have the wife light it off before dropping it in enough to float off of the trailer. Batteries aren't the only issue to check. Bumping the starter once or twice can check that, but I make sure the engine runs fine before I am floating helplessly. Regardless, I never fire it w/o water.

[voodoomedman]

Okay I still don't get bumping the starter. Are you talking about turning the key but not holding it long enough for the engine to turn over? Thanks guys for your input though. I always kinda wondered. Haven't had a problem as of yet but I don't plan or want to get one either.

[voodoomedman]

And what other issues are there to check. I mean I check all my fluids and plug and ... but if anybody has some tips I'm missing. Boy it's nice to talk about boats for a change.

[BadKachina]

Okay I still don't get bumping the starter. Are you talking about turning the key but not holding it long enough for the engine to turn over? Thanks guys for your input though. I always kinda wondered. Haven't had a problem as of yet but I don't plan or want to get one either.
When you "bump" the starter you are just making sure the engine will move, not start, just enough barely move it. Don't let it start at all. I wouldn't even do that, I just charge my batteries and start it before I float it off the trailer. It's good to check your fluids, it's also a good idea to open you hatch when you first fire it up, you will see if you have any water or fuel leaks, see if your belt or belts are all intact etc. before you float away. If you destroy the impeller it will usually happen when you start the motor, alot of times your pump will lock up and you will see your belt spinning on the pump or hear it or smell it for that matter. The only time I every lost an impeller was when I started it as my wife was backing me in, we were only a couple of feet from the water, I jumped the gun and I heard the belt squeeling like crazy. It ran for about five seconds. You should change the impeller at the beginning of every season, although some go two seasons. I change my housing every other time I change the impeller. Like I said, I've never had one fail in the water, only the one time I was in hurry and fired it dry.

[voodoomedman]

When you "bump" the starter you are just making sure the engine will move, not start, just enough barely move it. Don't let it start at all. I wouldn't even do that, I just charge my batteries and start it before I float it off the trailer. It's good to check your fluids, it's also a good idea to open you hatch when you first fire it up, you will see if you have any water or fuel leaks, see if your belt or belts are all intact etc. before you flat away. If you destroy the impeller it will usually happen when you start the motor, alot of times your pump will lock up and you will see your belt spinning on the pump or hear it or smell it for that matter. The only time I every lost an impeller was when I started it as my wife was backing me in, we were only a couple of feet from the water, I jumped the gun and I heard the belt squeeling like crazy. It ran for about five seconds. You should change the impeller at the beginning of every season, although some go two seasons. I change my housing every other time I change the impeller. Like I said, I've never had one fail in the water, only the one time I was in hurry and fired it dry.
Cool. Thanks. Yeah I usually check all that stuff. As far as replacing the impeller it is about time anyway. I basically leave that stuff to Aaron at Absolute. He says when to bring it back and what needs to be done and I comply with his orders. Unfortunately so does my money.

[Dusty Times]

I always fire mine on the hose before it leaves the driveway or the storage. I have always believed that having water pressurized to the pump on the first fire has helped the impellers last longer. The only time I lost an impeller was when I didn't do this. That way you know everything works before the ramp and the pump still has water in it by the time it gets to the ramp.
And change it every season without fail.

[Beer-30]

I always fire mine on the hose before it leaves the driveway or the storage. I have always believed that having water pressurized to the pump on the first fire has helped the impellers last longer. The only time I lost an impeller was when I didn't do this. That way you know everything works before the ramp and the pump still has water in it by the time it gets to the ramp.
And change it every season without fail.
That's a really good idea. Not that much effort for a good gain in reliability. Good call. :rollside:

[superdave013]

My neighbor had his housing machined (at a non-marine shop I might add), cost him $40. Works great. No need to spend $350 for the entire unit.
I sure wish some machinist on this board would start doing it regularly, could save people some coin and be a nice little change maker since it's my understanding the housings are backlogged. hint hint :idea: :idea:
That must have been some kind of bro deal. 40 bucks will get you about a 1/2 hour of spindle time and the set up would be extra.
I would love to make billet replacement housings. Can someone here supply me the needed info on what they would want?