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1quickjet
04-05-2002, 08:30 PM
Could you offer any tips/suggestions for installing a new rub rail? Any tips to keep the bad words to a minimum, before I jump into it? Proper way do do the bends, etc. Appreciate any help, from Rigger or anyone else, except for Superdave, he doesn't own boats with rub rails! J/K SD! http://free.***boat.net/ubb/biggrin.gif Cap jobs rule, just not on this boat right now.

Thunderbutt
04-06-2002, 05:18 AM
Omitt the rub rail, glass it in, realy looks good Originally posted by 1quickjet:
Could you offer any tips/suggestions for installing a new rub rail? Any tips to keep the bad words to a minimum, before I jump into it? Proper way do do the bends, etc. Appreciate any help, from Rigger or anyone else, except for Superdave, he doesn't own boats with rub rails! J/K SD! http://free.***boat.net/ubb/biggrin.gif Cap jobs rule, just not on this boat right now.

old rigger
04-06-2002, 08:36 AM
1QJ,
what kind of molding are you putting on?
I'll tell you a few things I always did when using any kind of molding. First do the bow with one piece, spliting the piece of trim, usually about 12 feet in length, so you have an equal amount on either side. If you are using the real nice stuff like superdave has, the kind with out a rubber insert, cheat the trim to one side so you don't have a screw hole deadcenter of the bow. I always liked it better with the first screws on each side starting back about 3 inches or so.
Next I'd do the transom the same way, starting the first screw dead center and working your way to each side. This way, if the transom has any crown to it, using one piece across it will look much better than trying to get two pieces that end in the middle to line up right. You might have to cheat the rear piece one way or another just a little so you wont have any screws right in the middle of the bend when you make the turn to go down the sides of the hull.
From there just fill in the gap from the bow piece to the transom piece and you home free.
If you are using the trim that takes the rubber insert and are using rivets to hold the trim on, I've got a real nice air rivet gun you are more than welcome to borrow if you need to. I live in Long Beach, if you are close, let me know.
Hope this helps........
Oh yeah, on the bow piece you should be able to bend it with you hand regardless of the type you are using. Every now and then on the sides, comming off the transom, I would use a rubber coated dead blow hammer (softly). I know this isn't as big of a bend as the bow, but sometimes the angle of the side and the transom are different and a little taping seats in nicly. Depending on the trim, you can even twist it by hand as well.
One more thing...if you are putting the trim on a hull that has been re-geled or repainted, the gel has a tendency to chip real easy when bending the trim on the corners....be real careful here.
one more thing (sorry) DON'T line the trim up by the seam between the deck and the hull, they aren't always straight and your trim can look like shit. Tape the trim in place and stand back and eye ball it. You'll get much better results this way.
Just my way of doing it.
[This message has been edited by old rigger (edited April 06, 2002).]

Sangerboy
04-08-2002, 04:19 PM
Thanks for the tips OR, I'm restoring a '65 Belmont for a friend of mine and he wanted the rubrail upgraded to something a little more robust.( the original rail was more of a trim piece, only about 3/8" wide strip of aluminum) Do you ever notch the base when mounting it around the tip of the bow?

1quickjet
04-08-2002, 08:03 PM
Rigger, thank you very much for the tips, just what I needed. Thanks also for the offer to use your equipment, I just may have to take you up on that one in a few months when I start the project. Thanks again! 1QJ http://free.***boat.net/ubb/smile.gif

old rigger
04-09-2002, 08:49 AM
SB,
was belmont built up around central Ca ? I remember seeing a few of them as well as them being in some old Hot Rod's in the late 50's and early 60's.
Personally I dont like the newer trim on an older boat like your friend has. I like the small skinny stuff that came on it. It was only intended to hide the seam on the early boats and throught the years has grown to monsters sizes, anodized any color you want and sold as 'rub rail'. Just me, but I think it would look better with the small stuff but I'm sure you could give a rats ass what I think.
Anyway to try to answer your question, yes, on the trim that takes a rubber insert and has a lip on the back side of the trim, you have to grind or file the lip down to get a nice fit in the tight turns. If this molding is being used on a coffin or box fit boat, there is a gap between the deck and the hull and this stuff fits just fine. But on a butt fit boat like I think your belmont is, ya cotta cheat a little to make it fit right. On the other hand, I've mounted this stuff upside down on different butt fit hulls through the years and this way you dont have to grind on it.
How 'bout posting a pic or two of the Belmont???

Sangerboy
04-09-2002, 05:47 PM
OR,Belmonts were built in Fresno until the early or mid 70's. If you've driven through Fresno on 99 there is an exit for Belmont Ave. The shop was a little west of the highway across from a cemetary. They took their name from the street I guess. I'm pretty much a technoidiot so as soon as I get my scanner figured out I'll try and post some pictures. I agree with you on the trim rail, but when somebody else is paying the bills and it's their boat I do it the way they want it.

old rigger
04-10-2002, 07:56 AM
Originally posted by Sangerboy:
OR, I agree with you on the trim rail, but when somebody else is paying the bills and it's their boat I do it the way they want it.
SB, the customer's always right...even when he's not.
Thanks for the info on Belmont boats and how they got their name, I guess kinda like Sanger as well....

Thunderbutt
04-10-2002, 10:27 AM
Old rigger, do you use screws or bolts? Originally posted by old rigger:
1QJ,
what kind of molding are you putting on?
I'll tell you a few things I always did when using any kind of molding. First do the bow with one piece, spliting the piece of trim, usually about 12 feet in length, so you have an equal amount on either side. If you are using the real nice stuff like superdave has, the kind with out a rubber insert, cheat the trim to one side so you don't have a screw hole deadcenter of the bow. I always liked it better with the first screws on each side starting back about 3 inches or so.
Next I'd do the transom the same way, starting the first screw dead center and working your way to each side. This way, if the transom has any crown to it, using one piece across it will look much better than trying to get two pieces that end in the middle to line up right. You might have to cheat the rear piece one way or another just a little so you wont have any screws right in the middle of the bend when you make the turn to go down the sides of the hull.
From there just fill in the gap from the bow piece to the transom piece and you home free.
If you are using the trim that takes the rubber insert and are using rivets to hold the trim on, I've got a real nice air rivet gun you are more than welcome to borrow if you need to. I live in Long Beach, if you are close, let me know.
Hope this helps........
Oh yeah, on the bow piece you should be able to bend it with you hand regardless of the type you are using. Every now and then on the sides, comming off the transom, I would use a rubber coated dead blow hammer (softly). I know this isn't as big of a bend as the bow, but sometimes the angle of the side and the transom are different and a little taping seats in nicly. Depending on the trim, you can even twist it by hand as well.
One more thing...if you are putting the trim on a hull that has been re-geled or repainted, the gel has a tendency to chip real easy when bending the trim on the corners....be real careful here.
one more thing (sorry) DON'T line the trim up by the seam between the deck and the hull, they aren't always straight and your trim can look like shit. Tape the trim in place and stand back and eye ball it. You'll get much better results this way.
Just my way of doing it.
[This message has been edited by old rigger (edited April 06, 2002).]

old rigger
04-10-2002, 12:43 PM
Originally posted by Thunderbutt:
Old rigger, do you use screws or bolts?
TB, I've used both when using the old style of molding that uses no rubber insert. 95% of the time, just nice s/s screws.
My neighbor around the block that built a super ****in nice 21 Hallett v-drive last year, just went back recently and replaced his s/s bolts and nuts on the trim with ones made out of titanium. He and his helper spent the extra time to make sure all the heads of the bolts, (machine type screws) were all timed with one another, even the nuts on the inside of the hull are timed. Looks really nice. I was very hesitant to show him this because he hadn't seen it for himself yet, but in the process of timing every screw and nut, he over tightened them and put a small ripple in the hull caused by the nut pulling on the inside of the hull.
Thought he was gonna cry.

superdave013
04-10-2002, 01:02 PM
My Schiada had s.s. bolts & nylocks holding the trim on. I said trim as mine is the old kind with out the rubber. It's s.s. and looks real sharp.

spectras only
04-10-2002, 01:26 PM
My 24 spectra had the "T" bolt every 6 inches.What a pain it was to remove after 30 years! I think I'll go S/S this time with screws only,and use a lot of bumpers.