Chevy 2500 HD - Cranking up the torsion?

[OCMerrill]

Looking to do this. I just mant about an 1"+. Easy?
A small run down would be greatly appreciated.
Putting on 285's on the stock alum wheels.
Thanks

[phebus]

Real easy, but you will have to get an alignment after cranking up the bars. I ran 285's on mine, and didn't need to do any trimming or altering of any kind.
I will look for a link on cranking them up, and post it when I find it.

[phebus]

Here you go: http://dieselplace.com/forum/showthread.php?t=86748

[MudPumper]

I think this topic came up before and somebody mentioned installing new torsion keys as a better way to level the truck. Anybody know anything about this? I cranked up the torsions on my old 1500 HD to level it out when I installed bigger tires. It looked a lot better but the front end rode like shit. Would installing new keys help the ride more than just tightening the torsions?? I need to level my 2500 HD but don't want the crappy ride.

[sigepmock]

I think this topic came up before and somebody mentioned installing new torsion keys as a better way to level the truck. Anybody know anything about this? I cranked up the torsions on my old 1500 HD to level it out when I installed bigger tires. It looked a lot better but the front end rode like shit. Would installing new keys help the ride more than just tightening the torsions?? I need to level my 2500 HD but don't want the crappy ride.
Factory shocks are just barely long enough. Best bet is to crank the keys you have and get new longer Bilsteins....if you need more height then get the keys. Definitely get the new shocks though.

[LHC30Victory]

Any time you crank the bars, the ride will deteriorate because you are affecting the front susp angles and preload. If you want to do it right, get the leveling kit from Cognito and then look into the Bilstein shocks for the ultimate ride. I installed the kit in about an hour then got my alignment. Great ride.....

[OCMerrill]

Thanks everyone. I did try and search this but could not find the info with out sifting threads.
I am only looking for just over an inch. I have a job box on a bed slide under the cap which takes about 1/2 of the ass up difference away. The truck is a 6.0 gasser so the front should come up fairly easy I would think.
I will read the link and see what it says Phebus, Thanks.
I use this truck mostly for work. Gathering materials and estimating. It hasn't been a real good truck but I do like the comfort and it will be paid off in 6 months. It has 22k on it and has been to the dealer 6x. Not the best. Oh well.
I will post up pics when I am done with it. The 285's are due in a week. Tirerack.com. Order all my tires from them.
Thanks again.

[OCMerrill]

Copied from the Phebus link.
Just in case anyone wants the info later and has better searching talent.
Adjust the Torsion Bars
There is a ton of pressure on those bolts with the trucks wheels on the ground! This is why taking pressure off the bolts and lubing the bolts is important. There is a reason there are warning stickers on them things! People have broken them and you could possibly get injured! This isnt a fairy tail invented by some lawyer at GM. Be safe!
Step 1. Measure the truck. Do both sideds and go off an easy to measure spot like the bottom of the bumper. If its stock and never been touched write this down(i do it in the owners manual) so you can always have a stock reference point(bars sag over time, you change it a few times etc)
Step 2. Jack the front of the truck up so the tires are off the ground. The 100% proper way is to get ahold of a torsion bar unloading tool. OTC makes some for about 100$ or you could barrow it from most parts stores. It looks like a pissed off C Clamp. But I have done it with a jack and never had an issue. Also some exhausts will make it impossible to use the tool on the driver side(why I didnt ever use the tool) http://www.sjdiscounttools.com/otc7822a.html is a pic of what the tool is. I never bought from here but its a deccent reference on what I am talking about
Step 3. Lube your bolt threads. Probably wouldnt be a bad idea to take the bolts out all the way and put some antisieze on the threads and on the end that contacts the Key. Or you can get lazy if you wont be adjusting em often and smear some anti sieze on the threads that will get screwed in or just blast the area with some good penetrating oil.
Step 4 Give it a few turns with a 18 m. I use a wrench. Shouldnt take a breaker or any heman effort. Give each side 3 full revolutions.
Step 5 Drop the truck. I drop it as fast as possible and bounce the suspention a few times to make sure its setteled.
Step 6. Measure again. Decide if its time to jack it up and give it a few more cranks.
Things to remember......1.5" to maybe 2" is the max hight you want to go. Too much cranking is bad on ride and also is hard on parts up front. You realy want the jounce bumpers to be touching and the CV joints to be pretty level.
Number of turns dost realy matter. Its all about the hight you gain etc. Most tructs are fairly consistent and people give number of turns as a guid line but when it comes down to it its hight you raise the front of the truck that matters not how far you spin them adjusting bolts in.
Trucks generaly sit uneven. Meaning one side will be higher than the other. Get it weighted how it normmaly will be(1/2 tank fuel etc) and dont be afraid to crank on one side more than the other to get the truck level side to side.
Look at the back of the bar in the back of the truck(looking from the front to the back just above were the adjusting bolts are) There is a line on the back of the torsion bar. You can mark your frame in relation to were that line is and crank it to the same spot like. Or for guys that drop thier bars all the time like drag racers or pullers. Make a spacer. A spacer that the torsion bar adjusting bolt goes through so when you crank the bolt down till the head hits the spacer you know its at the same place every time.

[77charger]

Wheter its new keys or cranking torsions it does the same thing preload the torsions to lift front end.The keys are just notched different and still preload the torsion bars.If you turn the bolt to crank torsions and only get an inch or so then new keys will allow you to get more.
Either way front end will be stiffer.

[Schiada Time]

Just be a man and put a 6/8 CST lift on it. If you want to level it than buy the kit from Off Road Unlimted or Cognito, level it out, install a set of Bilstein 5100's and put a 33-inch all terrain on the stock wheels. Tons of HD's running around like this and they look decent on the stock wheels. You even see older 8-lug trucks running HD wheels alot.
Schiada Time

[blender over]

I installed the torsion keys and leveled my chevy, also installed 20's and 33inch tires.
Came out looking pretty good.:D

[No Regrets]

Thats a 4x4, right? What size/brand/model wheels are those? They look like KMC's. They look real nice, Im looking for something like that. Did you lift at all or just crank torsos. Tires are 33 whats? No rubbing at all, huh?

[OCMerrill]

I installed the torsion keys and leveled my chevy, also installed 20's and 33inch tires.
Came out looking pretty good.:D
http://www.***boat.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=23584&d=1170708677
Looks good indeed.
I cranked up the bolts yesterday. I netted right at a fat inch. Levels the truck good enough. If I take the tools out of the back then I would need more. It may settle but for now its good.
My 285's get here on Wed. I cant wait to mount them up.
Tricken my truck out on the cheap.;)

[OCMerrill]

Just be a man and put a 6/8 CST lift on it. If you want to level it than buy the kit from Off Road Unlimted or Cognito, level it out, install a set of Bilstein 5100's and put a 33-inch all terrain on the stock wheels. Tons of HD's running around like this and they look decent on the stock wheels. You even see older 8-lug trucks running HD wheels alot.
Schiada Time
6/8 Lift? Some other truck maybe. 285's are going on (33's but like 10.50's so skinnier)
Add another one to the "Using the Stock Wheels". I use this truck for work 99% of the time. If I make it to big a PITA will be the result.
I can just see using a ladder to access the rack. This will be good enough for now.

[Beer-30]

Be prepared for a little less power and mileage. Those 285s will knock the torque curve down a little. You feel as much pep from the start. Went to them from 245s on a 454 dually, and ended up going back to 245s. We were pulling a trailer that was always loaded with pipe, and the 285s were a bit tall for towing. Turned the truck into a dog off of the line. A diesel would hardly notice the change, as boost would generally overcome the tire size. I mention this since you are gas powered, and 6 liter at that. The 6.0 will feel those tires and will be sipping more fuel to try to compensate.
Stopping was harder also, since the taller tire has more leverage against the brakes.

[77charger]

On mine i went with 265s no trimming needed and it has done its fair share of some slow wheeling around calico.Felt a slight drop in power when towing toyhauler but thats about it no real change on mpg
285s you need to trim a little or they will hit when bottomed out turning.

[OCMerrill]

I have been looking around at what others are running for sizes over stock. I have not seen anything bigger than 285's on stock wheels. In fact almost the norm...so that is how I based my decision on looks alone and on the cheap.
The truck is a dog anyway, gets about 11 mpg combined, and has 4.10 gears. Although not my first larger tire vehicle (I run 35's on my Jeep) I do realize it will hurt things. If I had 373's I would not do this at all. My jeep is a 3rd car trail rig so I dont have to live that daily.
I do haul the occasional dump trailer. Hopefully not to much crappier of a job? I am keeping my 245's as they are only 1/2 used. I can always revert?:D
Am I going to need a programmer to avoid a check engine light?
Thanks again all for the great tips and instructions. As soon as I get the tires on I will post up a pic. I am sure no one has seen an HD longbed Ext with 285's before:)

[Beer-30]

There should be no SES light, as the ECM doesn't know what tire you have on. The shift points may be off a little, as the ground speed won't match the speed the ECM is receiving. Very minor deal. A programmer would allow you to correct for tire size, making your speedo accurate once again. You could also gain a few HP to overcome the tire size. That may round out the package and make it do-able.

[blender over]

Thats a 4x4, right? What size/brand/model wheels are those? They look like KMC's. They look real nice, Im looking for something like that. Did you lift at all or just crank torsos. Tires are 33 whats? No rubbing at all, huh?
Yes its a 4x4, the tires are toyo allterrains 33inch. KMC rims called (dimes)
No lift just green keys and a little cranking, had to trim the front (vallance SP??)
Installed bilstenes shocks and called it a day.:)
1 thing sucks, the tires cost more than the rims:eek:

[boats&bars]

I did it with mine bilstein 5100's dont do it with out it

[ultra27jay]

We Do This Dailey. Here At My Shop. I Have The Keys And Shocks In Stock Let Me Know If Any Of U Need Any Help.

[Duck]

I did the green keys with a 2" torsion lift. 285's should not be put on stock rims, go with 10". The Bilsteins ride real nice, and you will have to pull the wheel liner in near the front of the wheel well. When done looks tits. Dangerous doing torsion bars without proper tools, be careful.:D

[blender over]

I did the green keys with a 2" torsion lift. 285's should not be put on stock rims, go with 10". The Bilsteins ride real nice, and you will have to pull the wheel liner in near the front of the wheel well. When done looks tits. Dangerous doing torsion bars without proper tools, be careful.:D
Interesting, got any pics of this done?

[BoneDaddy]

I am in the process of researching this myself. Can I use the green HD 1500 keys on my Z71 Suburban? Can I use the Bilstien 5100 shocks? Will I still need the spacers with these shocks? Where is the best place to buy these items? What is the biggest size tire I could use with little or no trimming in the fenders? Anyone have pictures of a Suburban with this done?

[Duck]

Sorry to not reply quackly. My truck is in Havazoo, so no flix. The liner is pulled toward the front bumper by just drilling a couple of holes near the outer edge and zip tying to whatever was there. After lift you'll know where you have to tuck cuz that's where it will rub. Check out www.dieselplace.com for tons of info on the torsion lift. Duck:D

[advantage21]

Here is mine 285/75/16 no trimming and no rubbing at all with rancho 9000s.
http://www.socalsupertrucks.com/trucks/425_1.jpg

[Inked]

I think this topic came up before and somebody mentioned installing new torsion keys as a better way to level the truck. Anybody know anything about this? I cranked up the torsions on my old 1500 HD to level it out when I installed bigger tires. It looked a lot better but the front end rode like shit. Would installing new keys help the ride more than just tightening the torsions?? I need to level my 2500 HD but don't want the crappy ride.
Off Road Unlimited has a leveling kit that comes with 4 nickle plated Bilstein 5100's... Kit is great, I ran the 285's on OE's till I lifted the thing to the sky. ORUs deal gives you larger cogs that allow to not crank the bars which would stiffen the front end. I had a good expereince with this kit.

[BoneDaddy]

Off Road Unlimited has a leveling kit that comes with 4 nickle plated Bilstein 5100's... Kit is great, I ran the 285's on OE's till I lifted the thing to the sky. ORUs deal gives you larger cogs that allow to not crank the bars which would stiffen the front end. I had a good expereince with this kit.
Actually, all leveling kits tighten the torsion bars. The difference that the new keys/cogs have is they are clocked more so you can have more travel on the adjustment bolt.
:)

[OCMerrill]

New question - What air pressures are we all running? I have 50psi in there now and I can tell the tire will wear the center of the tread (looks crowned - narrow wheel). This is unloaded of course. I did a chalk mark accross the tire a few times and in order the the chalk to come off evenly I need to drop the air pressure to 35 lbs. This makes the handling a little vague feeling. So I am back at 50 psi. I like the driving feel here the best. Just courious is all. If the tires wear faster so be it.
I have to say I am very happy with the 285's. Cranking the torsion...may not need it...your results may vary.:idea:
At first I thought I needed to crank up the torsion and did so but it turns out the 285's fit with no lower valance trimming and no rubbing what so ever.
The ride was a bit rougher (expected) but I have now cranked the bolts about 1/2 way back to the original position. So I am a little ass up in the air but I perfer this ride a bit better.
The 285 tires do not change much in the way of stopping as the HD has great brakes with the Hydra boost and the like. My 6.0 gasser is just a tad more gutless that it was before. I have ordered a Preditior Programmer to correct the 4 mph off speedo and recapture the few lost ponies. I bought it mostly to pull a code off my wifes Yukon that is out of warranty and giving me that draeded Service engine soon light.
The 285's handle great and the overal stability and ride of the truck (given the 285 vrs 245 sidewall height) IMO is better than before.
Chevrolet should have at least made the 265 the base tire. That 245 is just a joke (looking anyway).