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CVX20
05-27-2007, 06:16 PM
http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d117/wickedrister/Sept06017.jpg
OK this is what I started out with. This is my $600 CVX20 E-bay project jet. We drove 6 hours each way to get the nightrmare home to VA. This will be my second time restoring a boat. I put new stringers, seats, steering, gauges, engine and jack plate in my 16' Checkmate . Did everything but replace the transom but that was no way near the job this one is going to be. I think I can do it but the combonation of little time and money plus the fact I am working on it outdoors it's going to take a long time. Ducky has given me some pointers over on JustJetBoats and that's a big help. All the suggestions I can get are welcome so there you go and Thanks for Looking:)
Fred

CVX20
05-27-2007, 07:09 PM
http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d117/wickedrister/April2007139.jpg
Still have a bunch of grinding to do, the stringer beds need prepping and the hull needs properly supported and checked with a straight edge before I can think about the new stringers. Now the question is this, what is the best way to bed the stringers in place. The Carlson is a full stringer boat with two 14' stringers. I have some West epoxy resin and 404 high density filler but I don't think I can afford to do the entire boat with it. Can you use the 404 filler with poly resin? I know if I start the boat with the epoxy I will need to stay with it for the entire job. Now I am thinking about just going with poly because it's not so expensive. How about vinylester resins? I'm told that they are a good go between that can be thickened with microbubbles like poly but is a much better resin than poly and not expensive like epoxy. :idea: Do I use a bedding compound like Dolphin lite or just use my thickened resin to hold the stringers in place before they are matted in? I have a plastic 454 mach up block that I am gonna use. I have my front motor plate, bell housung and oil pan bolted to it so that should really be a big help with the alignment of my stringers and keep me from installing them wrong. Thanks for looking!
Fred in VA.

CVX20
05-27-2007, 07:21 PM
http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d117/wickedrister/April2007132.jpg
I figure it can also be used on the engine stand for routing, plumming and getting every thing sized up ahead of time while my engine is out for machine work.

CVX20
06-14-2007, 06:13 PM
http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d117/wickedrister/April2007008.jpg
This is my steering wheel, I don't know what it came from? maby 1970's AMC ? I don't know but I think it will be cool in the boat. It's made out of plastic and seainless so it should work out good.

CVX20
06-14-2007, 06:21 PM
http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d117/wickedrister/April2007026.jpg
Got the wheel test fitted, had to get a tapered steering extension and polished bezel so it would fit well and look OK. The old school Cragar SS center cap made a good horn button.

Steve 1
06-14-2007, 06:29 PM
Stay with a vinyl ester resin and you can make your own or buy bedding/fairing putties staying with the esters.
The Epoxies are nice but again we tend to get “Oversold” on resin sometimes another advantage is you can adjust gel times for large laminations if you work alone.

CVX20
06-14-2007, 06:35 PM
http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d117/wickedrister/April2007121.jpg
http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d117/wickedrister/April2007109.jpg
Got the dash all finished and ready to wire. Wish I had used a nicer looking kind wood but it turned out OK for oak. Yep that's a 70 chevelle SS fender emblem and a corvette style engine start button. I thought putting the key switch out of site and using the engine start would be cool. Not going to run a GPS speed-o, don't want to get my feelings hurt:D

CVX20
06-14-2007, 06:42 PM
http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d117/wickedrister/April2007159.jpg

CVX20
06-14-2007, 06:50 PM
Stay with a vinyl ester resin and you can make your own or buy bedding/fairing putties staying with the esters.
The Epoxies are nice but again we tend to get “Oversold” on resin sometimes another advantage is you can adjust gel times for large laminations if you work alone.
Thanks for the pionter Steve, I'm kind-a new at all of this so I like the input.

CVX20
06-14-2007, 06:55 PM
http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d117/wickedrister/JUNE2007010.jpg
http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d117/wickedrister/JUNE2007020.jpg
Got the holes cut for the cleats and bow light and air vents. Man just look at the flake on the deck shine LOL LOL

CVX20
06-14-2007, 07:05 PM
http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d117/wickedrister/JUNE2007013.jpg
Ok this is gonna be a small problem for me. The engine hatch has a monster size hole cut out of the top of it. I really wanted to keep the hatch all stock looking but what the hell. May just put a tunnel ram or L88 style scoop on the thing.

Daytona100
06-14-2007, 07:16 PM
Keep up the good work,,,,,,,,,,,,Youll be :D on the water in no time.

CVX20
06-15-2007, 02:29 AM
http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d117/wickedrister/JUNE2007043.jpg
Thinking about mounting some kind of fiberglass cowl scoop, maby one like this will do the job. Now I have a good idea of how big it needs to be so all I need to do now is find one.
"DAYTONA" I can see from the avatar that you have one hell of a nice rig! It's cool to get some words of encouragement from a big time boat owner on a old back yard beater project!
Thanks Fred

Daytona100
06-15-2007, 08:28 AM
Scoop looks good. Moving along nicely.:D

CVX20
06-15-2007, 03:46 PM
http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d117/wickedrister/November2006008.jpg
I'm giong with big 4"x10" Harden Marine tips, it had 3" flappers on it but I didn't really care for them. Thinking about a set of through transom headers rather than the old water logs. I bet the headers would win me a ticket or two from the DGIF P0-P0 :D

CVX20
06-15-2007, 03:54 PM
http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d117/wickedrister/April2007168.jpg
:mad: Damn a strong wind blew the boat apart today:mad:
Only kidding!
We capped it so I could cut all the rotten wood out of the dash and out of the gunwales.

Tom Brown
06-15-2007, 04:26 PM
Hey CVX20,
Would you consider letting me post that on CarlsonSpeed.com?
I'd love to make an article out of your project. You can see the article for my CVX-16 restoration at:
http://www.carlsonspeed.com/index.php?option=com_content&task=view&id=20&Itemid=36

CVX20
06-15-2007, 06:40 PM
Hey CVX20,
Would you consider letting me post that on CarlsonSpeed.com?
I'd love to make an article out of your project. You can see the article for my CVX-16 restoration at:
http://www.carlsonspeed.com/index.php?option=com_content&task=view&id=20&Itemid=36
Hi Tom
I looked at the link to your rebuild from start to finish. Fantastic job man the boat looks perfect. I understand how much you liked working with your dad. My dad helped me on my last project boat. I like the way you went with some of "out the box thinking" like installing the vent fan ports. I have also looked at Kilroy Bay's CVX20 rebuild over on that site. I am registered over there but can't seem to get loged in? Looking at your rebuild is a strong reminder of how much work I have ahead of me. Be proud because you did one hell of a job. Feel freel to post all the pices you want over on carlsonspeed. Who knows they may just get a kick out of them. You can find many of my boat and boating pics over on Photobucket.com. The link to my album is http://s34.photobucket.com/albums/d117/wickedrister/?sc=1&addtyee=local&media=image
Thanks Fred

CVX20
06-16-2007, 01:14 AM
http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d117/wickedrister/b9_12a.jpg
This is one of the the E-bay pics from when the boat was listed for sale. Check out the plants growing up out of the engine compartment. My frend took one look at this pic and said "Fred have you lost your mind" then he said "where is it, let's go get it" Thanks for all the help Scott and remember "This is all your fault"

Rayhill
06-16-2007, 05:24 AM
Your dashboard looks great! The Cragar cap on the steering wheel is a super nice touch as well! Is the wheel plastic or wood?
I am from Roanoke/Vinton/Blue Ridge. Got hooked on boats hanging out on SML! I live in Tennesse now and have a couple of Carlsons. My family is in Roanoke. My sister's husband runs B&M sheet metal. If you are in need of some stainless goodies fabricated give them a ring!
Kevin

jimslade
06-16-2007, 01:39 PM
http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d117/wickedrister/April2007139.jpg
Still have a bunch of grinding to do, the stringer beds need prepping and the hull needs properly supported and checked with a straight edge before I can think about the new stringers. Now the question is this, what is the best way to bed the stringers in place. The Carlson is a full stringer boat with two 14' stringers. I have some West epoxy resin and 404 high density filler but I don't think I can afford to do the entire boat with it. Can you use the 404 filler with poly resin? I know if I start the boat with the epoxy I will need to stay with it for the entire job. Now I am thinking about just going with poly because it's not so expensive. How about vinylester resins? I'm told that they are a good go between that can be thickened with microbubbles like poly but is a much better resin than poly and not expensive like epoxy. :idea: Do I use a bedding compound like Dolphin lite or just use my thickened resin to hold the stringers in place before they are matted in? I have a plastic 454 mach up block that I am gonna use. I have my front motor plate, bell housung and oil pan bolted to it so that should really be a big help with the alignment of my stringers and keep me from installing them wrong. Thanks for looking!
Fred in VA.
The stringers should not contact the bottom of the boat. This could setup a stress fracture. Set the stringers up 1/4 of an inch on a strip of foam. Use an poly- isophalic resin to glass the stringers in. Epoxy is overkill on a boat that size. Just make sure you grind with 24 grit, you are setting up a mechanical bond. Glass the stringers in with 3 lapped layers of 1810 glass.
Now the scratching starts.

CVX20
06-16-2007, 03:39 PM
Your dashboard looks great! The Cragar cap on the steering wheel is a super nice touch as well! Is the wheel plastic or wood?
I am from Roanoke/Vinton/Blue Ridge. Got hooked on boats hanging out on SML! I live in Tennesse now and have a couple of Carlsons. My family is in Roanoke. My sister's husband runs B&M sheet metal. If you are in need of some stainless goodies fabricated give them a ring!
Kevin
Hi Kevin
We live in Roanoke County, Hollins area. We spend the weekends at the Hanabass camp ground near the old Cape Carlin Marina. We usually beach our junk at the big island that has the nice beach, you know the one just below Hales Ford Bridge. I'm kind of new at this but having a blast. We are on a mission to bring older hot boats togerher on SML like back in the the good old days. Last year we had small get together at the island and had about 7 or 8 cool old hot boats show up. Hope to see 12 to 15 this year. The metal I used in the dash came from B&M they were really nice. Love to see your classic boats one day. Maybe you can come back up one day to ride the Lake and chill out with us.
Thanks Fred!
PS- Yes the steering wheel grip is some sort of really hard plastic. I wet sanded and polished it back smooth because it Looked like crap when I got it.

CVX20
06-16-2007, 03:46 PM
Hi Jim.
That is exactly what I'm looking for, some good advice. I want to do this deal the right way the first time.
Thanks for posting!:)

jimslade
06-16-2007, 04:15 PM
I do this stuff for a living, any help you want let me know. I just finished walking a guy from BC through the same process. There is a lot of bad advice out there, be careful.

CVX20
06-16-2007, 06:33 PM
I do this stuff for a living, any help you want let me know. I just finished walking a guy from BC through the same process. There is a lot of bad advice out there, be careful.
OK Jim you had to ask :D
Just a few questions. I was watching the show "Ship Shape TV" they used a felt bedding material that was fixed to the bottom of each stringer. They wet out the felt and the stringer bed really well then put them together. They also talked about hard spots in the hull from rigid stringer bottoms. How about this felt stuff? Looks like it will do the same thing as the foam stringer bed. How come the 2 old boats I have torn down were just full of that nasty old pink and rock hard Detroit body filler. I found that stuff under every section of wood in the boats. Is the foam just any kind of foam and is the felt just any old felt? Do they have a name or can you post a link to them so I can order what I need. Can I use a run of the mill poly resin like the kind auto parts stores and home improvement centers keep in stock? That' what I used in the last boat.
Thanks Fred!!

jimslade
06-16-2007, 06:46 PM
The felt does not absorb enough resin to be hard. The boat bone yards are littered with boats with stress fractures. You could use any type of foam that doesn't react with resin. The main point is to make sure that the stress is spread out to the outer portions of the stringer. The poly resin at most stores is a cheap ortho waxed resin. You don't want to use a waxed resin until the final coat. You will have bonding problems even if you prep properly. Try to find a marine supplier, and use an isophalic resin. It is better than ortho and not as expensive and toxic like vinlyesters. People always bash anything other than epoxy but there are very few boats built completely out of epoxy. Very expensive and you have to engineer to the elogation of epoxy. I hope I have helped you out. Jim

CVX20
06-18-2007, 09:01 PM
[QUOTE=jimslade;2624015]The felt does not absorb enough resin to be hard. The boat bone yards are littered with boats with stress fractures. You could use any type of foam that doesn't react with resin. The main point is to make sure that the stress is spread out to the outer portions of the stringer. The poly resin at most stores is a cheap ortho waxed resin. You don't want to use a waxed resin until the final coat. You will have bonding problems even if you prep properly. Try to find a marine supplier, and use an isophalic resin. It is better than ortho and not as expensive and toxic like vinlyesters. People always bash anything other than epoxy but there are very few boats built completely out of epoxy. Very expensive and you have to engineer to the elogation of epoxy. I hope I have helped you out. Jim[/QUOTE
That information is going to be a big help Jim. I have 2 new gallons of the ortho resin that I can use on some under the cap repairs. I will get the good poly resin for the stringers transom and floor.
Thank You!
Fred

CVX20
09-24-2007, 06:59 PM
http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d117/wickedrister/004-2.jpg
I got a bad feeling that this install is gonna suck. Did I pick the wrong thing for a first time glass project or what. This is what I plan to use to filli the big ass hole that was cut out of my engine hatch. The classic glastron gang may not like the way it looks but it's the best idea I can come up with.

CVX20
09-24-2007, 07:06 PM
http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d117/wickedrister/012-2.jpghttp://http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d117/wickedrister/012-2.jpg
I did some cutting and got it about 1/2 ass fitted in place. I just hope that giong with it pointed forward wasn't a big mistake. I don't think that the air cleaner would clear if I installed it the other way. I really hope that a loose towl or some other junk dosn't get free in the boat and slip down inside the scoop. I think an engine hatch fire could screw up a nice day. Hummmmmmm it looks like I need to come up with a grill for the front now. I'm going to order a pair of factory cowl iductioin emblems to put on ithe sides. Think they will look way better than the Glastron emblems that came on ithe boat. They were trashed any way.

CVX20
10-01-2007, 06:10 PM
Located a pair of the old school seats I was looking for. I think they will look way better when done than the squared off tall seats that came in the CVX20's. I plan to building the rear bench seat so it is curved on the corners to match the front seats and cover everything with pleated vinyl.
http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d117/wickedrister/CVX20Project002.jpg

CVX20
10-01-2007, 07:29 PM
I started to epoxy the cowl induction scoop to my engine hatch today. It will requird a bunch of work to blend it all together so it looks good. Didn't get much done on it today but I did get a started on it. Need to look for some kind of cool looking billet or tube type grill I can use to cover the open end of the scoop.
http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d117/wickedrister/CVX20Project021.jpg
http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d117/wickedrister/CVX20Project004.jpg

CVX20
10-02-2007, 06:15 PM
Worked on some stringer templates today. The boat needs two 14' stringers and one 12' center stringer put back in. 12 foot and 14 foot stringers can make templates a real pain in the ass to come up with. I made the first set out of cardboard but didn't feel good about going with them for final cut so I transferred them over to plywood then worked them to a good close fit. Got a lil done today so it looks like It's about time to cut out the real deal lumber now.
http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d117/wickedrister/CVX20Project033.jpg
http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d117/wickedrister/CVX20Project037.jpg

CVX20
10-03-2007, 07:15 PM
Atfer sanding and prepping the first coat I got the second coat of cloth and epoxy on the bottom side of the hatch. That should hold the cowl induction scoop good and tight. Now it's time to start on the top side.
http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d117/wickedrister/CVX20Project006.jpg

CVX20
10-05-2007, 04:22 AM
Started on the top side of the hatch cover. Long long way to go if it's ever going to look good. http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d117/wickedrister/CVX20Project030.jpg

GAWnCA
10-05-2007, 06:10 AM
Started on the top side of the hatch cover. Long long way to go if it's ever going to look good.
Hey, you're doing just fine. It's looking like your going to have it looking like it was meant to be that way.

CVX20
10-08-2007, 05:01 PM
Hey, you're doing just fine. It's looking like your going to have it looking like it was meant to be that way.
Time will tell Greg. I think it was a bad idea to make this my first top side project. Will try and do a nice job but my expectations arn't really that high :)

CVX20
10-13-2007, 03:12 AM
Engine hatch is starting to take shape. Have a bunch of filling and blending to do but you get the idea as to how it's gonna look. Think I will get a 70's SS emblem or 454 enblem for the grill :)
http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d117/wickedrister/CVX20Project003-1.jpg

ck7684
10-16-2007, 09:57 AM
That scoop really looks great on there!! Would have been cool to graft on the front portion of an L88 scoop too :) I wouldnt put "cowl induction" emblems on though because it really isnt anymore in yr boat. Good luck on the rebuild, I'll be watching this thread now...:D

CVX20
10-16-2007, 07:11 PM
That scoop really looks great on there!! Would have been cool to graft on the front portion of an L88 scoop too :) I wouldnt put "cowl induction" emblems on though because it really isnt anymore in yr boat. Good luck on the rebuild, I'll be watching this thread now...:D
Thanks CK but,
WOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOPS:hammer2:
http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d117/wickedrister/007.jpg
Installed the 454 emblem in the grill today. I cut the bars and set the emblem in flush it turned out good. It's still a cowl induction scoop it just happens to be pointed forward LOL LOL! I looked at all kinds of fiberglass scoops to fill the huge hole in my engine hatch and I wanted to use the L88 scoop but they were not long or tall enough for the job.

CVX20
10-17-2007, 04:11 PM
Did the first test fit today after 3 building coats of epoxy. It has a long way to go but not lookig that bad so far. Need to blend the larger cowl ridge into the smaller deck ridge at the ski eye mounting point. Who needs a big old ski eye sticking up anyway. Do yall think that I need to continue the deck lines all the way up the cowl or did I go far enough to tie things together?
http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d117/wickedrister/CVX20Project006-1.jpg

ck7684
10-18-2007, 04:52 AM
Looks pretty good in that picture...it blends nicely right where there is a curve in the cowl induction scoop...
I like that grill with the 454 emblem :D It would be cool to make a carb tray that seals up to the bottom of that...

CVX20
10-18-2007, 07:52 PM
Looks pretty good in that picture...it blends nicely right where there is a curve in the cowl induction scoop...
I like that grill with the 454 emblem :D It would be cool to make a carb tray that seals up to the bottom of that...
Thanks CK!
Good idea so a carb tray it is!

CVX20
10-21-2007, 05:02 PM
Started to mold the ridge on the cowl scoop into the ridge on the deck today. Starting to take shape but has a ways to go before it's finished :)
http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d117/wickedrister/CVX20Project008.jpg

CVX20
10-21-2007, 05:09 PM
http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d117/wickedrister/CVX20Project001-1.jpg

CVX20
10-29-2007, 05:22 PM
http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d117/wickedrister/KODIAK.jpg
I wanted to find a better flowing exhaust system than the log manifolds. It's a closed engine boat so I can't run round tube or water injected headers. I got this set of new take off Kodiak High Performance mamifolds on Ebay. They arn't as good as Stainless Marine or the Thunder manifolds but I think they will be way better than the Glenwood logs. The price was really good at $600, they sell new for about $1.300. HOPE THEY CLEAR THE ENGINE HATCH!!

CVX20
11-05-2007, 03:19 AM
Just got my manifolds in the mail. Sweet...... they look like brand new. Don't know what's up with the Ford blue powder coat. Also picked up a few vintage nick-nacks this week that I plan to use. Pics to follow if they work out for me :D

sawtooth
11-10-2007, 10:04 PM
I tip my hat to you, you are my new hero. The work you are doing looks fantastic. I have started a project like yours with removing a sub floor and the full length stringers in my 21' crusier and when I get to the point your at I hope mine looks 1/2 as good. Please keep the pics/info comming so I can use them for insperation/motavation (sp).
Chris.

CVX20
11-10-2007, 10:30 PM
I tip my hat to you, you are my new hero. The work you are doing looks fantastic. I have started a project like yours with removing a sub floor and the full length stringers in my 21' crusier and when I get to the point your at I hope mine looks 1/2 as good. Please keep the pics/info comming so I can use them for insperation/motavation (sp).
Chris.
Sawtooth!!
My buddy Gus or 175checkmate over on www.checkmate-boats.com is rebuilding his 1970's trimate II for the second time. I look at his rebuild pics from time to time to keep me inspired to work on my ride. Show us some shots of your project some time Chris.
Thank you for the kind words.
Fred

CVX20
11-10-2007, 10:47 PM
http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d117/wickedrister/382a_11.jpg
I picked up this vintage air cleaner last week. I'm told it's a JC Whitney part from the 1960's. I think it's kind of cool and seems to be a lil rare. I have seen only one like it before so it may just end up on the jet boat. Keep it old school :chi:

CVX20
11-18-2007, 02:57 PM
http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d117/wickedrister/boat004.jpg
Ok I found a K&N element that works with my old air cleaner. It's an inch taller than the paper filter that came with it. I hope the taller K&N will flow enough to keep an 850 holley well fed. I like the old school looks of the thing so I hope it works out.

CVX20
12-02-2007, 07:01 PM
My buddy and I worked on the pump today. We got the rebuild kit all installed and it only took about a twelve pack to get it done :)
http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d117/wickedrister/DEC2nd031.jpg

Daytona100
12-02-2007, 07:03 PM
Looking good!!!!!!! :D Mike

CVX20
12-07-2007, 03:13 AM
Rudder or no rudder that is the question. My friend told me to loose the rudder. He said cool boats don't use rudders LOL LOL. But really he said that his boat runs, steers and docks the same with or without the rudder on. It would really take some doing to change on a 12JF because the rudder has the up down cable mount on it. Need to just change it to a Place Diverter.

CVX20
12-09-2007, 02:39 PM
This is the intake carb and air cleaner I plan to use. Holley 850, Edelbrock torker II, 1960's JC Whitney National brand air cleaner and K&N filter. What do you think.
http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d117/wickedrister/boatpics008.jpg

jrork
12-09-2007, 02:53 PM
Youre doing a great job. Keep it up. ps, post up a pic of the checkmate...though I'm a jet/v-drive guy, I really like some of those wackers too. Checkmates and Hydrostreams run hard in the salt waters around here.

CVX20
12-09-2007, 08:47 PM
There you go Jrork!
I miss the "lil" boat but I had to sell it to fund all the crap needed to build the jet boat.
Remind me to buy a turn key ride next time rather than rebuild one that was left for junk :)
http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d117/wickedrister/July2006076.jpg
http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d117/wickedrister/July2006088.jpg
http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d117/wickedrister/July2006080.jpg

GAWnCA
12-09-2007, 11:58 PM
I'd like to find something in that size range only closed bow and maybe inboard as in I/O. Something for a new project.

CVX20
12-10-2007, 03:14 AM
How about a 1970's Glastron Carlson CV16SS think they are about 16 and 1/2' with inboard outboard closed decK and really sleek looking. Think they came with a 6 cyl. so build a stout stroker small block and there ya go! That would be COOL AS HELL!!

GAWnCA
12-10-2007, 08:47 AM
How about a 1970's Glastron Carlson CV16SS think they are about 16 and 1/2' with inboard outboard closed decK and really sleek looking. Think they came with a 6 cyl. so build a stout stroker small block and there ya go! That would be COOL AS HELL!!
Did a Googled, and found what you are talking about. I don't care for that stepped transom.

CVX20
12-10-2007, 04:29 PM
Hummmm:idea:
Better stick with a Checkmate then. They made a bunch of cool ass inboards back in the 70's.
Check this out www.checkmate-boats.com Go to the gallery section and look around, I think you will dig it!!

MarKist
12-16-2007, 10:26 AM
See, Fred.. you did it, that looks sweet,keep up the good work:D :D :D
Markist

CVX20
12-18-2007, 03:57 AM
See, Fred.. you did it, that looks sweet,keep up the good work:D :D :D
Markist Thanks mark :)
It's coming along but it's gonna take forever for me to finish. Did you see Scott's new toy? He just found a 1980 Hondo Pickle fork V-drive. Man we wish John was still with us and he could see this thing. I think he would get a kick out of it. Hope yall are doing well and Merry Christmas. Please say Hi to Phill, Jay, Nate and the rest of the Mountain Island gang when you see them!
Fred

CVX20
12-18-2007, 04:00 AM
http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d117/wickedrister/V-DRIVEHONDO015.jpg