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brwn234
07-22-2007, 06:55 PM
Alright, its not that bad. My white was getting a little dull in some spots. So I ordered a 3 step kit from Mcguires. I started with #49(I think) Oxidation remover. I'm only using a random orbital buffer. Parts of it look good but some spots are very hard to buff out. They almost get chalkier. I spent a long time trying to get it right and only finished part of one side. Theres no way I can finish it like this. I've thought about getting one of those porter cable orbital buffers. I've never used a rotary buffer before and I'm kinda worried about F'n something up. Should I wet sand first? I'm lost, help me out. Thanks

Beer-30
07-22-2007, 07:33 PM
Alright, its not that bad. My white was getting a little dull in some spots. So I ordered a 3 step kit from Mcguires. I started with #49(I think) Oxidation remover. I'm only using a random orbital buffer. Parts of it look good but some spots are very hard to buff out. They almost get chalkier. I spent a long time trying to get it right and only finished part of one side. Theres no way I can finish it like this. I've thought about getting one of those porter cable orbital buffers. I've never used a rotary buffer before and I'm kinda worried about F'n something up. Should I wet sand first? I'm lost, help me out. Thanks
I sand the worst spots. The slight discoloration should buff right off. Any hard looking spots or chalkiness should be lightly sanded. I hit them with 2500 wet and then buff. It takes most of the work out of the buffing.
Also, on a whim, I wiped some oxidation along the bottom of the boat with a used up MagicEraser. We were done cleaning the interior, and there was some black hardwater/oxidation lines along the bottom of the sides. I wiped the Eraser across them and all of the nastiness was gone - and it looked like it had been sanded. Very fine "dullness" to it, no scratches. Buffed right up as if it had been sanded with 4000. You might try that.

DUCKY
07-25-2007, 12:22 PM
An orbital isn't for buffing. It's for wax/polish application. If you want results you need a rotary buffer. Harbor Freight's "Chicago Electric" line is a good way to go. I have 2 of them I use every day and they run about $40. You will need to buy an adapter and quality pad, though. I suggest 3M's two sided pad, and adapter, and together they will cost you another $30 or so. If you are careful, you won't do damage.
Anyways, oxidation needs to be removed before attempting to buff. If the ox is light, wet sand with 1500-2000 grit paper (always the same direction) with a little dish soap in your water, and dry with a squeegee. You should see nothing but your own sanding scratches if you do it right. I would think that the Meguire's oxidation remover would be aggressive enough to remove the 2000 grit scratches, then go from there. The trick to not damaging is to avoid the build up of heat. Work a small area at a time, and if the surface gets hot, take a break.
Good Luck!

Beer-30
07-25-2007, 12:51 PM
An orbital isn't for buffing. It's for wax/polish application. If you want results you need a rotary buffer. Harbor Freight's "Chicago Electric" line is a good way to go. I have 2 of them I use every day and they run about $40. You will need to buy an adapter and quality pad, though. I suggest 3M's two sided pad, and adapter, and together they will cost you another $30 or so. If you are careful, you won't do damage.
Anyways, oxidation needs to be removed before attempting to buff. If the ox is light, wet sand with 1500-2000 grit paper (always the same direction) with a little dish soap in your water, and dry with a squeegee. You should see nothing but your own sanding scratches if you do it right. I would think that the Meguire's oxidation remover would be aggressive enough to remove the 2000 grit scratches, then go from there. The trick to not damaging is to avoid the build up of heat. Work a small area at a time, and if the surface gets hot, take a break.
Good Luck!
Good post. The oxidation remover (#49?) works real good on sanded areas, but I have found it really only works with wool pad for this step. Foam doesn't seem aggressive enough to get the scratches out. After the wool, foam is great for the rest (polish/sealer and then wax).

gqchris
07-25-2007, 02:13 PM
An orbital isn't for buffing. It's for wax/polish application. If you want results you need a rotary buffer. Harbor Freight's "Chicago Electric" line is a good way to go. I have 2 of them I use every day and they run about $40. You will need to buy an adapter and quality pad, though. I suggest 3M's two sided pad, and adapter, and together they will cost you another $30 or so. If you are careful, you won't do damage.
Anyways, oxidation needs to be removed before attempting to buff. If the ox is light, wet sand with 1500-2000 grit paper (always the same direction) with a little dish soap in your water, and dry with a squeegee. You should see nothing but your own sanding scratches if you do it right. I would think that the Meguire's oxidation remover would be aggressive enough to remove the 2000 grit scratches, then go from there. The trick to not damaging is to avoid the build up of heat. Work a small area at a time, and if the surface gets hot, take a break.
Good Luck!
Great Post Ducky. I am going to try these steps out on my boat tonight. But Where can I find the 3m pads and adapter? I am picking up a Chicago Electric buffer tonight from Harbor Freight. Are the pads something I could find somewhere else possibly? Lowes or Home Depot?

Beer-30
07-25-2007, 02:51 PM
Great Post Ducky. I am going to try these steps out on my boat tonight. But Where can I find the 3m pads and adapter? I am picking up a Chicago Electric buffer tonight from Harbor Freight. Are the pads something I could find somewhere else possibly? Lowes or Home Depot?
Any auto refinishing store. "Refinishers" is one place. Any auto store that handles professional auto paint - above and beyond spray cans. They will have the finishing supplies you need.
There are several online places, also.

DUCKY
07-25-2007, 04:00 PM
You are right. The wool pad is required for scratch removal, in fact I wouldn't recommend the use of a foam pad to a beginner as they can really can really create a lot of heat if you are not careful. The wool "super-buff" pad and adapter can be found at any auto body supply store, or industrial supply that carries auto body or polishing supplies. After the rough compound, just wash and dry the pad, and continue with the finer stuff. Good Luck!

Beer-30
07-25-2007, 04:53 PM
You are right. The wool pad is required for scratch removal, in fact I wouldn't recommend the use of a foam pad to a beginner as they can really can really create a lot of heat if you are not careful. The wool "super-buff" pad and adapter can be found at any auto body supply store, or industrial supply that carries auto body or polishing supplies. After the rough compound, just wash and dry the pad, and continue with the finer stuff. Good Luck!
Agreed, especially on the wash after compound.
Foam pads should be soaked in water for beginner use. Keeps the heat away until they get a "feel" for the pads.

brwn234
07-25-2007, 07:33 PM
Is this the buffer your talking about?
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/Displayitem.taf?itemnumber=92623
Also, I found this website that sells wool pads that are specifically made for gel coat. Does this looks like a good place to buy or do you have a better?
http://www.properautocare.com/gelcocopa.html

DUCKY
07-25-2007, 09:41 PM
Yes. I have two of those Harbor Freight buffers, and have had very minimal trouble with them even though I use the crap out of them. Not quite as powerful or quiet as a Makita or DeWalt, but for 1/10th the money I'll take my chances.
On the pads, the double sided cutting and polishing pads look identical to 3M's stuff. I am not sure about the concept of a pad "specifically designed for gel coat".
That orange foam pad looks interesting. I have always used 3M's waffle faced pads (white for compounding and grey for polishing), but you have to start with a wool pad regardless. Either way, I'm sure that the products listed on that site will work just fine, and if you prefer to buy stuff online, go for it. I have just always used the 3M stuff.

gqchris
07-26-2007, 07:53 PM
Hey Ducky, pickd up the Harbor Freight buffer you recommended today and went to town on the boat this evening. Thanks for all the advice, I used the Meguires 49 with a high end wool pad, medium speed. Sure does look pretty:D Got 90% of my dulling out. What a mess it made, that stuff sure does sling everywhere! Question now is, how do I insure that once i put it in the water in a few weeks, it doesnt creep back again. Lots of wax? I used Meguires polish 45 today. Any other tips! Thanks so much for steering us right way!
Chris

gqchris
07-26-2007, 07:55 PM
Good post. The oxidation remover (#49?) works real good on sanded areas, but I have found it really only works with wool pad for this step. Foam doesn't seem aggressive enough to get the scratches out. After the wool, foam is great for the rest (polish/sealer and then wax).
Beer 30 thanks for your tips as well.
Chris

brwn234
07-27-2007, 03:32 AM
Thanks for all your help guys. I ordered the buffer and some pads yesterday morning and now I'm a waitin. ggchris, I'm glad to hear you had some good results. I'm using the same compund and wax as you. Did you use any polish? I got some in my McGuires kit that I plan to use. Once I get my stuff and start working I'll let you guys know how it works out. Thanks again for your help.

gqchris
07-27-2007, 09:57 PM
Well, just an update, a little of my oxidation "creeped" back. :( I was told by someone today that my gelcoats lifespan is pretty much over. I guess I will just run what I brung and see what happens.
Chris

DUCKY
07-31-2007, 05:43 PM
I am glad I could help your guys out.
Anyways, GGchris, it appears that your boat is black, correct? Raw black gel (no clear over it) is tough to keep looking nice. If the oxidation came back quickly, you probably didn't sand enough, but black requires some form of polishing (meguire's cleaner wax....) almost every trip, especially when the boat starts to age. I also like 3M's "dark color" polish applied with their gray foam waffle pad for black gel, but it only lasts a trip or two...

gqchris
08-02-2007, 09:57 PM
I am glad I could help your guys out.
Anyways, GGchris, it appears that your boat is black, correct? Raw black gel (no clear over it) is tough to keep looking nice. If the oxidation came back quickly, you probably didn't sand enough, but black requires some form of polishing (meguire's cleaner wax....) almost every trip, especially when the boat starts to age. I also like 3M's "dark color" polish applied with their gray foam waffle pad for black gel, but it only lasts a trip or two...
Yea it is black Ducky:) I will definately try the 3m dark color polish. You are right, when I polish, im good till the trip is over, then back to the elbow grease to get her right!:)

gqchris
08-02-2007, 10:02 PM
Just for kicks, here are a few shots showing my gel and condition sorta. Just have a tough time on the transom, whic is all black, and the top where the water pools midway on the rails!
http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b377/gqchris/boat3.jpg
http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b377/gqchris/boat4.jpg

DUCKY
08-03-2007, 06:02 PM
I think a good color sand/buff will bring her back pretty nicely. I just don't know how much gel is left on the thing.....

brwn234
08-08-2007, 09:28 PM
So I finally got everything together and started buffing the boat. Looks great, very happy with the results. I wet sanded some of the badly oxidized spots with 2000. The McGuires Oxidation remover #49 took a long time to remove the sand lines. If I ever do it again I'll get a compound a little more aggresive to start with.
Any suggestions on keeping it looking great. I love Hot Sauce for quick cleaning. I've got some Quickie Sauce, but havn't used it yet.

H20MOFO
09-03-2007, 05:52 PM
I Know It's A Bandaid.the Person I Bought My Boat From. Wet Sanded And Cleared My Orig Gel. And It Looks Good.imo