Blew the rear end on my Suburban

[GunninGopher]

The rear end on my 1990 2wd Suburban 1500 is destroyed and I need to get it replaced, not rebuilt.
I was thinking it would be cool to make it a dually, but I probably don't want the hassle right now. I won't even be able to make the time to fix it myself so I definitely don't need a project.
Where could I get a rebuilt rear end for cheap?
If it did want to go dually, I guess I'd be looking at a new rear end, some fenders and what else? Some springs would make it more legit, I guess.
I think it would be cool, since you don't see a dually suburban every day. Maybe it would look really sweet slammed, but I don't like lowered trucks, usually.

[dragboat]

My wifes gmc now has a compleeeeeeetly rebuilt rear end ....$1300. It had a noise that turned out to be a bearing, it self distructed and took out everything else. If you ever wanted to do the duelly conversion do it now. Check the yards and take your tape measure.

[GunninGopher]

I bought this one for 2k in April and it had a weird sort of vibration but it didn't seem serious. Nothing felt loose and I only put about 500 miles a month on it, so I didn't sweat it. I wish I had.

[Run_em_Hard]

Changing out the ring and pinion isn't too bad. You might be able to reuse all the shims if they aren't warn too bad. Do it yourself and your looking at about 200 or less. Pay someone and your talking about 600. At least thats what it cost where I am from. I lost mine on my old 1/2 ton chev. Priced it out before I rebuilt it myself. All you have to do is pull the axles, pull out the inards or the rear end, and replace. You will have to take the new ones to a machine shop to have them press the new bearing onto the pinion gear. If the shims are worn than just take it to a shop. It takes some time to get the backlash all set-up right.

[GunninGopher]

I was told that the rear end is not rebuildable. It was thunkin', clanging, rattlin', knockin' and slippin' when I drove it in. I couldn't give it more than 20% power.
The shop her in El Cajon is calling junkyards for a rebuilt or rebuildable one. I can do this type of work when I have time, but I don't think I do right now. I'll probably pay someone to do it unless I'll save a ton of money doing it differently.

[Sleek-Jet]

Pick-u-part... a nice morning, a few tools, a few bills, and a lot of greasy dirt should score you another 10 bolt. Probably can find a Sub in one of those yards to use as a doner.
10 bolt rear ends are like small block chevy's. They are everywhere. If you don't want to get dirty, check a salvage yard, they should have a few... or good old ebay or craigs list.

[Run_em_Hard]

I agree with sleek, the 10 bolt is everywhere. But I don't understand why it wouldn't be rebuildable. I would think at the worst you lost a couple teeth on your ring gear and those might have messed up either your spider gears or limited slip. But that whole rear-end is completely rebuildable. But if the worst has happened and you lost your gears and limited slip it might be cheaper to find a used one. Just make sure that the gear ratio is the same.

[Sleek-Jet]

The only thing I could think of is that it spun a bearing race on the pinion, or it cracked the pinion housing somehow.

[tahitijet]

His carrier may be no good. I"ve seen the gov locks in the newer trucks totall explode.
I've seen very few totaled housings. but the housing is cheap. What your shop is probably telling you is it's cheaper to find a used housing with a carrier in it then it is to put a new carrier and parts in your old housing.
Now if you want to make sure it doesn't happen agian. Take the opportunity to put a eaton carrier and good ring and pinon in it now. It'll cost you but it'll be strong.

[Beer-30]

To go dually, you would need a dually rear end. The width is different between a regular 1-ton rear end and a dually rear (shorter).
Plus, you would need 3/4 or 1-ton front suspension to either run the dually spindles/rotors or at the very least - the 8 lug wheel spacers that adapt the dually wheels on to a reg 3/4 ton rotor.
I did this years ago and learned it is much easier just to buy a dually.

[GunninGopher]

To go dually, you would need a dually rear end. The width is different between a regular 1-ton rear end and a dually rear (shorter).
Plus, you would need 3/4 or 1-ton front suspension to either run the dually spindles/rotors or at the very least - the 8 lug wheel spacers that adapt the dually wheels on to a reg 3/4 ton rotor.
I did this years ago and learned it is much easier just to buy a dually.
.....Now if you want to make sure it doesn't happen agian. Take the opportunity to put a eaton carrier and good ring and pinon in it now. It'll cost you but it'll be strong.
Thanks for the comments, guys.
I figured that going dually wouldn't be worth the effort, since I only use this truck to pull around town once and a while. I really only put about 4k miles a year on the truck. I just have only seen 1 dually suburban in my life, and I thought it would be pretty cool to do, if it didn't cost much more than just fixing it up to stock.
TJ - I'm definitely not going to want to spend too much on it. If I could get it sounding right for really cheap, I'd probably do it and then trade it in somewhere for a newer ride.

[victorfb]

if you change your mind about going duelly, let me know. i have a 91 GMC extra cab 4x4 duelly i am parting out. i used the front clip and motor for another project, but all the rest is there. front and rear end got new 4.56 gears. bought a brand new (from GM) 4L80E trans with aluminum deep sump pan. and put maybe 5k miles on em before i bought a new F550. used the motor for my boat and the front clip on the girlfriends truck. not sure if the wheelbases are close but you may be able to put the subie body right on this running gear and be done. maybe someone on here knows about that.

[GunninGopher]

Thanks for the offer, Vic, but I'm just not into a project right now, the backyard needs work. I probably shouldn't have even brought it up.
I have a 5 lug setup on it now and found a 6 lug setup on Craigs list. Will I be able to use this easily?

[victorfb]

no problem man. its just sittin in the yard. i dont have the time to start taking it all apart to sell the stuff right now. maybe it will turn into a pre runner project next year. who knows. i think id rather just let it go cheap and move on to one of the other many projects. i just figured i would mention it if you changed your mind about the conversion.

[Sherpa]

Victor,
I'd like to talk with you about the 91 pickup........ here's my email,
scottx.massey@intel.com
--Sherpa

[victorfb]

email sent. thanks.

[Schiada Time]

Just replaced the Gov lock and stock 4.10 gears in my CK2500 with a Detroit Locker truetrac limited slip and 4.56 gears to make up for the installation of my 35-inch tall tires. drives like a dream now with the gear swap, JBA Headers, Flowmaster muffler, AEM intake, and Superchips hand held tuner. the gears are a must. I would look into a Detroit Truetrac unit. perfect for everday driving and launch ramp duty. Had one with 4.56's in my old '95 1500 and she purred like a kitten too.
trav

[Hotfish]

My 1990 sub. blew apart the rear end also. I ended up changing to a 14 bolt

[victorfb]

$1200 and you can have the 14 bolt rear end and the rest of the truck aswell. :)

[Bub]

I'm not 100% on how I got to this forum / page, but nonetheless, I do have a question maybe someone could help me with.
I have a 1990 GMC Suburban 1500. I just stripped the gears in the rear end and my dad says the best / cheapest thing to do is find a used rear-end and drop it in ourselves.
Anyway, the question is ... does anyone know what the gear ratio is for this make & model? It's a 10 bolt / 5 lug. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks! :)

[Daytona100]

I'm not 100% on how I got to this forum / page, but nonetheless, I do have a question maybe someone could help me with.
I have a 1990 GMC Suburban 1500. I just stripped the gears in the rear end and my dad says the best / cheapest thing to do is find a used rear-end and drop it in ourselves.
Anyway, the question is ... does anyone know what the gear ratio is for this make & model? It's a 10 bolt / 5 lug. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks! :)
Should have a option tag in the glovebox. A sticker with a bunch of numbers an d letters on it. Look for the code that starts with GU and a number. You can call a dealer and give them your vin and the code and they will tell you your gear ratio. Or you can pull the diff cover and count the teeth on the pinion and ring gear and do some division and figure it out.

[victorfb]

there may be a metal tag attached to the dif cover by one of the bolts that has the gear ratio stamped in it.
BTW. i still have the 1 ton running gear from the 91 GMC dually if anyone is interested. a complete swap to all 1 ton stuff and it can be ran as a dually or singles by removing the spacers on the front hubs. i have the dually fenders aswell.

[Bub]

Awesome, thanks alot guys. I will definitely try those methods. When / if I find anything I will be sure to let you know.
Thanks again! :)
--
Bub