setting an intake Q's

I am going to add a new intake w/ a shoe and a rideplate. I need a few tips on how to set it. If anyone has any pics that would be helpful. I have never done this so I need a little help....
396

I did mine. I figured it out by first removing intake and having it machined, talked with Jack about it a little. Then put it back in place and played with the adjstment screws and studied how I could make it work.
-I think the most important thing is to make sure you set it in the right spot(centered in the boat).
-Make sure it is level with the innermost lifting strakes.
-Then, set the keel depth and the entry. You want a smooth entry(you can read elsewhere about the shape) and the bottom of the shoe(with no spacers) even with or just above the keel line.
When you get that all set up, go back and measure it again because the early measurements probably moved in the process. Hammerdown was great help as well.

any other help or pics????

I did mine. I figured it out by first removing intake and having it machined, talked with Jack about it a little. Then put it back in place and played with the adjstment screws and studied how I could make it work.
-I think the most important thing is to make sure you set it in the right spot(centered in the boat).
-Make sure it is level with the innermost lifting strakes.
-Then, set the keel depth and the entry. You want a smooth entry(you can read elsewhere about the shape) and the bottom of the shoe(with no spacers) even with or just above the keel line.
When you get that all set up, go back and measure it again because the early measurements probably moved in the process. Hammerdown was great help as well.
That's about it . I took lots of measurements . I was not replacing but resetting since the intake did not have enough puddy on the backside against the transome origanally and after a good pounding began to leak.
The ride plate is mortised into the hull so (ride plate attached to the intake) I clamped the ride plate to the hull on the back and brought the front down flush with hull . I applied as much of the poxy-puddy as I could initially. I used blue masking tape about a 1/2' outside the widest flange on the inake to keep it clean and a guideline and then began the liberal application of the puddy.
All my measurements came out right on and everything is good again.
I did not think I was gonna be able to do it correctly but a friend of mine told me I could so I did and the cut-out was nice and tight so I think I really lucked out on mine since I am far from bein a professional. Good luck .
-beerjet-

That's about it . I took lots of measurements . I was not replacing but resetting since the intake did not have enough puddy on the backside against the transome origanally and after a good pounding began to leak.
The ride plate is mortised into the hull so (ride plate attached to the intake) I clamped the ride plate to the hull on the back and brought the front down flush with hull . I applied as much of the poxy-puddy as I could initially. I used blue masking tape about a 1/2' outside the widest flange on the inake to keep it clean and a guideline and then began the liberal application of the puddy.
All my measurements came out right on and everything is good again.
I did not think I was gonna be able to do it correctly but a friend of mine told me I could so I did and the cut-out was nice and tight so I think I really lucked out on mine since I am far from bein a professional. Good luck .
-beerjet-
Did you have to build up the putty? So I take it that the putty is placed around the cut out of the intake?

Did you have to build up the putty? So I take it that the putty is placed around the cut out of the intake?
Thats what I did. First laid tape around the intake with it laying in the hole. Pull intake and pile on epoxy all the way around(I bought the small size and barely had enough, next time ill buy the bigger cans...)Lay the intake back in the epoky and push it down and make sure you get it all lined up quick. I had very little time to work with it. You need to work FAST. I had help, came in very handy. Have a friend over to play biatch.

Thats what I did. First laid tape around the intake with it laying in the hole. Pull intake and pile on epoxy all the way around(I bought the small size and barely had enough, next time ill buy the bigger cans...)Lay the intake back in the epoky and push it down and make sure you get it all lined up quick. I had very little time to work with it. You need to work FAST. I had help, came in very handy. Have a friend over to play biatch.
I put the epoxy puddy on intake and yes you do need some help cuz that shit gets hard almost as fast as I do . I was scraping the sides of those small ass cans to finish . Mash it down good to make sure you got a good seal , its allways easier to buy more if you have to. I also got on the underside and used the popsicle sticks to fill (or should I say pack) the small cracks and crevises. Sanded it and sprayed some lubri-bond . Brendella is right on , When I bought the puddy I looked at it said "no way this enough ." Dude said it should be plenty so I figured he's the man.
-beerjet-

This might help its off our website.
Special note you must level the keel, use an angle finder to set the surface where the jet units mounts. If its a 4 degree intake set it between 4-5 degrees. One more thing fresh grind the hull and the intake (where it bonds to the hull) just before you install the intake.
ATM
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INSTALLING INTAKE
There are four 3/8 – 16 tapped holes in each mounting flange that is used for jack screws. These screws allow for setting of the intake to the proper angle.
a. Set the intake in the hull with the four jack screws installed.
b. The bottom center of the intake at the front of the intake must be flush with the bottom of the hull at the front cut-out use the jack screws at the front of the intake to hold your setting.
c. Using the jack screws at the rear of the intake to move the intake up or down. Set the machined surface (where the pump unit bolts) at 4-5 degrees relative to the keel.
d. Check the intake to insure that it is level with the hull side to side.
e. Tape around the perimeter 1 – ½” from the cut-out. (This makes your epoxy job look much nicer.)
f. Mix your bonding compound according to the instructions. Place the compound around the cut-out and also the mounting flange of the intake.
g. Set the intake in the hull so the jack screws come in contact with the hull.
h. Double check the intake setting.
i. Smooth out and fare in the compound to the tape line also smooth out the compound on the bottom side of the intake.
j. Remove the tape.
k. Wait for the compound to kick-out.
l. Drill the mounting holes with a 17/64” drill.
m. Counter-sink the drilled holes for Flathead Machine screws. (From the outside of the hull.)
n. Use bonding compound under the heads of the machine screws to make them water tight. Install screws, washers, and nuts.
o. Mark and drill transom mounting holes.
p. Mark and drill cutout holes.
q. Complete transom cutout.
SPECIAL NOTE: If you are using a HIGH-PERFORMANCE INTAKE you must follow these steps to insure the ride-plate centers up with the bowl.
a. Bolt the ride-plate to the intake.
b. Bolt the jet-unit to the intake and to the transom but do not tighten. Use the gaskets provided.
c. Set the yoke on the ride-plate.
d. Move the jet-unit side to side to line up with the ride-plate and yoke.
e. Tighten jet-unit and transom flange bolts.