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the ZZ502 crate is way under cammed and can gain sugnificant increase in both torque and HP with minimal mods. the aluminum GM heads that are made by edelbrock have the same casting material as edelbrocks rectangular port heads. meaning they can be ported to match a rectangular intake, or do some other port work mods without worry. the stock valve spring are rated to handle over .600 lift but for the exact specs id have to look through my files.
Brendellajet. you may be right with the 950 carb, but for some reason i remember him running a dominator aswell. probably after he went forced induction. what parts did you buy from him? i know i have the cam (the randy killer is what he liked to call it) he ran when it was a single carb normally asperated motor.
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ok i dug up my test info on my old 502.
-AFR 315 cnc heads
- added the severed duty Tulip valves. AFR milled the heads to get the chambers down from 119cc to 110cc . this kept the compression ratio near stock (9.6:1).
-Comp Cam mechanical roller Grind # c8VI 48768 / 4877B SR112.0
Lobe lift .389 intake/ .393 exhaust / gross valve lift was .661 intake/.668 exhaust/ duration at .050 was 254 intake/ 260 exhaust with a 112 lobe separation/ valve lash .016 for both intake and exhaust
-Comp Cams Endure-X roller lifters, 1.7 ratio aluminum rockers
-Edelbrock Victor JR Air Gap intake with no additional port work or matching
-Holley 950HP carb-stock right out of the box
-Moroso 11-quart pan
anyway the motor made over 700hp on 91 octane through a set of Bassett headers
and spun a race-prepped B-impeller about 5,800 rpm in my boat
the motor was ran hard and afterwards the heads were used on several of my motors. after 4 seasons i checked the valve springs and they were all within 10 pounds of stock. i have no doubts this setup will last awhile in a jet boat or other application.
hope this helps
yep, as useuall i was wrong again, about the carb anyway.lol atleast i was correct on the cam. those numbers match what i have here. i never ran that cam in my set up, but from what i remember in your boat it ran real hard and strong.
thanks for clearifing it all up mike.
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The final answer? Hey cyclone would you do it again or would you go the high dollar motor route. (not that these are cheap) also you thin this can be done with hydraulic roller in the 600hp range?
And most inportant Thanks Guys
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yep, as useuall i was wrong again, about the carb anyway.lol atleast i was correct on the cam. those numbers match what i have here. i never ran that cam in my set up, but from what i remember in your boat it ran real hard and strong.
thanks for clearifing it all up mike.
No problem Vic. how's Toni doin?
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The final answer? Hey cyclone would you do it again or would you go the high dollar motor route. (not that these are cheap) also you thin this can be done with hydraulic roller in the 600hp range?
And most inportant Thanks Guys
i'd definately do it again. its a super easy package to put together. buy the 502 short block and just throw the top end on it.
If i wasn't into drag racing then i'd build another 502. its the cheapest way i can think of to make 700 ponies on pump gas. you can definately make 600hp with hydraulic roller. call the guys at comp cams and tell em what your application is and they'll set you up with the right cam. They spec'd the cam for my 502 and it worked great.
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No problem Vic. how's Toni doin?
Toni is doing awsome, thanks for askin. due date is feb 2nd and im feeling like a kid waiting for santa clause to come. :D now its your turn, quit spending money on the trojans and get with it man. :D
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There is 100 hp difference between the solid and the hydraulic roller??? :confused:
Travis
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I just wasn sure how often I would have to run the valves if it was solid? Oh by the way I have to worry about reversion. Will these cams give me trouble?
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I just wasn sure how often I would have to run the valves if it was solid? Oh by the way I have to worry about reversion. Will these cams give me trouble?
well im not sure about reversion,but with a soild roller you will only have to run your valves at first till things get fully wore in,then not very often,i like to check my solid roller motors or flat tappets once a year after that and they are usually still in specs.:D things have came along way with solid profiles and valve adjustment.:D
