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JRocket,
I spoke to Dave about a # 6 the other day. Are you going to put it on your 26? Isnt the hole at the wrong hight or wouldnt it need to rise to get the X to the right spot?
Let me know the outcome of the drives as I may be interested in a split.
WW
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Originally posted by WetWillie
JRocket,
I spoke to Dave about a # 6 the other day. Are you going to put it on your 26? Isnt the hole at the wrong hight or wouldnt it need to rise to get the X to the right spot?
Let me know the outcome of the drives as I may be interested in a split.
WW
Not sure,havent really got that far on researching it.I know the seat will have to come forward and a few other things.Im just getting different ideas is all.Seems like a good plan if I could sell my drive and put a used complete 6 on.
I wonder why you have to run a trans?If the gears are a set ratio in the drive itself,then whats the trans doing besides the usuall?Maybe the drive doesnt have shift componentes inside so they use the drive to do that?And how far forward do you have to move everything?
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Originally posted by Jrocket
...Maybe the drive doesnt have shift componentes inside so they use the drive to do that?...
No shift mechanism in the drive itself. Besides the trans and placement of the engine, you need to have a relatively tall transom due to the size of the drive and the location for the proper X dimension. I would say this is the #1 reason why you don't see too many 26' cats with 6-drives.
You may want to talk to Alexi at BoostPower marine. He's got a 26' Daytona with #6 in his shop. The transom was modified to accommodate the drive.
J - you would have one bad ass Mach 26 if you could pull this off!
CC
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Originally posted by CustomCruiser
No shift mechanism in the drive itself. Besides the trans and placement of the engine, you need to have a relatively tall transom due to the size of the drive and the location for the proper X dimension. I would say this is the #1 reason why you don't see too many 26' cats with 6-drives.
You may want to talk to Alexi at BoostPower marine. He's got a 26' Daytona with #6 in his shop. The transom was modified to accommodate the drive.
J - you would have one bad ass Mach 26 if you could pull this off!
CC
Ill have to do some checking around.
A buddy of mine has a Hallet 210 with a #6,seems to fit fine.If I can find a way to do it and its not going to be a huge pain....Ill try it.But if it takes alot more than Im willing to do to my boat then forget it.
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Seat has to come up 10" to accomidate
The drive would have to come up a little higher then the seam.
I spoke to dave about a F26 with a #6 and he said it had not been done yet but would liove to do it.
WW
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Ah just put an Arneson on and be done with it, A lot cheaper and more speed. If I had a bigger boat I would have already done it. even thought about doing it on my boa t I have now but the transom was too short.
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Originally posted by Bryan Rose
Ah just put an Arneson on and be done with it, A lot cheaper and more speed. If I had a bigger boat I would have already done it. even thought about doing it on my boa t I have now but the transom was too short.
Not to sure on the speed issue....
I spend some time on some Nortech Cats and I like the toughness of the Arnesons myself....I asked Randy Sweers about it at the Poker Run In Jacksonville last month....and he said the #6 drives are not only faster ...but steer better as well....at least on the 36 and 50 Supercats
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J- Rocket
Have you considered looking into #5 drives. There is not nearly as much work to do installing them. You will still need a transmission, and more then likely will need to move your motors forward and up to accomadate the new location of of the drive shaft and tranny. I have looked into #6's and theres many issues you will need to deal with. Most everyone told me to sell my boat and build a new one, in the long run it works out to be cheaper building from scratch instead of starting over with what you got.
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Originally posted by Three Days Only
J- Rocket
Have you considered looking into #5 drives. There is not nearly as much work to do installing them. You will still need a transmission, and more then likely will need to move your motors forward and up to accomadate the new location of of the drive shaft and tranny. I have looked into #6's and theres many issues you will need to deal with. Most everyone told me to sell my boat and build a new one, in the long run it works out to be cheaper building from scratch instead of starting over with what you got.
I havent looked into anything too far.Im more idea shopping right now.I know a #6 is going to be way too much work from what it looks like.Sure would be nice though.I will probably stick with my built Bravo for now.I just got off the phone with an engine builder today that gave me some very good prices and ideas of what I can do to "Step it up".If I dont cheese out on my plan,then this winter I'll be puting in some HP.Its just hard to walk away from a very reliable HP500EFI motor.
How far forward does the motor have to be moved for the #5 and tranny setup?I think stelling makes some conversion stand off boxes?
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My buddy in Tucson has a 23 Cheetah with an 1100+ hp turbo hemi and a #4, which is now busted and will soon be a #5. His motor is in the standard position because he built a custom carbon fiber standoff box that he laminated right onto the transom and gelled to match. It came out bitchen, looks like it's meant to be there. The tranny sits inside the box. The only caveat is that you would also need to go to full hydraulic steering to the helm since there's no room for a standard tiller arm/ram setup. A new #5 is about $12k-$13k, transom assembly $4k, tranny $3k-$4k, plus custom fab and installation unless you can do it yourself. Also don't forget the cost of upgrading your fuel system in the boat with bigger lines, pumps, etc, if you're going huge hp. Oh yeah, and props ain't cheap either! Break out the plutonium card!
:D