-
Pulled the motor out yesterday to pop the pan and do a little investigating. The pump is still tight (no reason why it shouldn't be), the pickup is still in place, there was absolutely no debris or anything in the oil (I was pleased about that portion), and all in all everything looked good. The only thing I DID find was a .500" clearance between the inside bottom of the pan and the depth of the pickup (measured without the gasket) Considering my symptoms looked like the pan was pumping dry, it might be that the pickup is pulling air because of too much clearance. I'm running a Hardin Marine Pan, but it looks like the pan has already started to weaken under the pickup where the bottom of the pan has deflected almost .250" away from the rest of the floor. This area is also the unsupported area with no reinforcement from the trap door frames etc because of the required clearance for the pickup. I'll be calling George in a couple of hours, but wanted to see if anyone knew off the top of their head what the acceptable clearances should be. Dooley's site mentions .250", but would that quarter of an inch really make that big of a diference? Also, since it looks like I'll be getting rid of the CP pan, what are everyone's thoughts between going 10 quart and 14 quart with a Dooley? I'm pretty sure I can clear either, so would it be worth the extra bones for the 14 quart model?
Thanks,
Chris
-
3/8 is optimum but 1/4 is acceptable. Just my opinion
Have been using the Milodon offshore 12 qt pan with good results.
Olson cooler fits well and notched for filter.
-
Info thanks for the reply.
I had orriginally ordered a Milodon 10 qt, but the built in windage tray would hang on the pickup on my pump (they come blueprinted with a Dooley pickup already brazed on from Clay Smith), so rather than cut up a brand new pan, I ordered a the Hardin pan. Now it looks like I may be giving Dooley a call after talking with George.
Since you mentioned the Olson Cooler... I have one I picked up at a parts swap a while back. I ordered new end caps for it (the old ones were severely coroded) powdercoated it and then rebuilt it. But when I pressure tested it, I got water out of the shell so it never went on the boat. Instead I picked up a large 4"x16" Teague unit just before the beach bash. What have your experiences been with the Olson Cooler? I'm just worred that the O'ring could fail, or the aluminum could erode away again and milkshake the motor. Everyone I bump into loves the coolers, so maybe I'm just paranoid. Because of its clean moutning, I wouldn't be opposed to running one after having it serviced by Olson. Do you think it would be as efficient as the Teague unit I'm running now?
Thanks in advance for your assistance.
Chris
-
I got my Olsen cooler in the late 70's used and I'm still using it today and never had a problem with it. At the end of the season I always pull it apart and clean it out good and check that the O-Rings are still soft. I've put two O-Ring kits in since I've had it. A little maintenance and it will last a long time, I still have the original end caps. I just picked up another one for the new boat, wouldn't be without one!... :cool:
-
Can't argue with that :)
Chris
-
Chris, I'm running the Dooley 10 qt pan with the big Olsen bolt on cooler. Thats 12 qts of oil. Had the pan 4 yrs, no problems. The cooler makes changing the filter a pain in my setup but...worth it.
-
flat broke:
Info thanks for the reply.
I had orriginally ordered a Milodon 10 qt, but the built in windage tray would hang on the pickup on my pump (they come blueprinted with a Dooley pickup already brazed on from Clay Smith), so rather than cut up a brand new pan, I ordered a the Hardin pan. Now it looks like I may be giving Dooley a call after talking with George.
Since you mentioned the Olson Cooler... I have one I picked up at a parts swap a while back. I ordered new end caps for it (the old ones were severely coroded) powdercoated it and then rebuilt it. But when I pressure tested it, I got water out of the shell so it never went on the boat. Instead I picked up a large 4"x16" Teague unit just before the beach bash. What have your experiences been with the Olson Cooler? I'm just worred that the O'ring could fail, or the aluminum could erode away again and milkshake the motor. Everyone I bump into loves the coolers, so maybe I'm just paranoid. Because of its clean moutning, I wouldn't be opposed to running one after having it serviced by Olson. Do you think it would be as efficient as the Teague unit I'm running now?
Thanks in advance for your assistance.
Chris Chris the 4 x 16 cooler you have has much more cooling capicity than the Olson. The Olson is a 3" diameter core. The only problems we normally see with Olsons is in salt water applications that eat the aluminum. Helps to hard anodize them if going in salt water alot. With good sound Olson pieces and fresh o-rings you should have no problems. I've run several of them over the years without incident. You can also easily plumb a remote oil filter setup off the bottom if the cooler is too low to get to the filter location easily. Have this setup on my own boat. In extreme applications though the 4 x 16 cooler you have will outcool the Olson (ususally don't need that much though).
-
I went ahead and picked up a 14 qt model direct from Dooley. There had been an Olson 12 quart pan in the boat at one time (turbo setup) and it cleared fine, so I figgued that I might as well opt for the extra capacity. Better to spend an extra hundred now, than have to spend another six later. (I should have used that philosophy on the first pan purchase :rolleyes: )
Thanks to everyone for the additional input on the oil cooler. I'm going to go ahead and run the Teague unit for now, but send the Olson out for a test/rebuild. Then when that comes back, I'll swap em out so that I can eliminate the external plumbing associated with the Teague unit.
Mike, do you guys do testing and repair on the olson coolers or would I have to send it up north? I have a feeling the core is shot because someone had already brazed one of the tubes closed, and the unit failed a pressure test before I was going to install it on the new motor. I'd be happy to use you guys instead of Olson even if you can't get the core's as cheap. Feel free to PM me if it's something you guys can do.
Thanks,
Chris
-
Chris I'm sure we can do ya right on the cost of a new core although I don't know what the number is without checking. Your old core would have to go to Olson to be checked though we're not set up to do it here. Be happy to handle it for you or you if you like. Are all the other alum parts in good condition, end caps, etc. I've seen cases where these coolers are so corroded and screwed up from salt water that it becomes cheaper to just buy a new cooler rather than trying to piece one back together.
-
Mike,
Thanks for the offer on handling the cooler for me. Yeah, all of the Alum is good. The main body is solid no corosion, the end caps were toast, so I bought new ones. I'll give you a call after the weekend to get the cooler down to you guys for the servicing.
Thanks again for your help and insight,
Chris
