ford crate motor

My nephew is looking to buy a ford crate motor 514 inch stroker for his 89 mantra. Anybody got any links.
Thanks
Kojac

Go here >http://www.fordracingparts.com/home/home.asp
http://www.fordracingparts.com/parts...tKeyField=6188
Don't think anyone can beat the price per HP > Under 8K :idea: :D
Every big city has a Ford SVT dealer .They can order you the 514 cu .

My nephew is looking to buy a ford crate motor 514 inch stroker for his 89 mantra. Anybody got any links.
Thanks
Kojactell him to check this place out www.strokermotor.com
they are located in Dallas,Tx. he has some damn good deals!!!

My nephew is looking to buy a ford crate motor 514 inch stroker for his 89 mantra. Anybody got any links.
Thanks
Kojac
Go here >http://www.fordracingparts.com/home/home.asp
http://www.fordracingparts.com/parts...tKeyField=6188
Don't think anyone can beat the price per HP > Under 8K :idea: :D
Every big city has a Ford SVT dealer .They can order you the 514 cu .
Great motor. Not my favorite 514, though.
The Ford Racing 514 is not your day-to-day 4.15" stroke 514 (4.44" bore). It is acually a 4.3 stroke 521 (4.39" bore).
I really like the 521 engines and think they are awesome for a jet boat, but Ford's version uses a crank with 2.500 rod journals. Also, if you purchase that engine the first thing you should do is partially disassemble it and check bearing clearances and adjust if necessary, retorque the bottom end and check all other requisite fasterners for proper torque. Even if you don't reset bearing clearances for marine use (as Ford recommends), at least pull the pan and check main and rod bolts, etc. You are purchasing what Ford considers a high performance engine and I have heard horror stories about how they stand behind their product as a result.
Taking all that into consideration, I'd prefer to buy the 514 or 521 rotating assembly and build the motor myself. It will cost less much than $8000, too.
If you want a lead to some great stroker kits, just PM me or reply here.
LO

Great motor. Not my favorite 514, though.
The Ford Racing 514 is not your day-to-day 4.15" stroke 514 (4.44" bore). It is acually a 4.3 stroke 521 (4.39" bore).
I really like the 521 engines and think they are awesome for a jet boat, but Ford's version uses a crank with 2.500 rod journals. Also, if you purchase that engine the first thing you should do is partially disassemble it and check bearing clearances and adjust if necessary, retorque the bottom end and check all other requisite fasterners for proper torque. Even if you don't reset bearing clearances for marine use (as Ford recommends), at least pull the pan and check main and rod bolts, etc. You are purchasing what Ford considers a high performance engine and I have heard horror stories about how they stand behind their product as a result.
Taking all that into consideration, I'd prefer to buy the 514 or 521 rotating assembly and build the motor myself. It will cost less much than $8000, too.
If you want a lead to some great stroker kits, just PM me or reply here.
LO
Paul somehow I feel inadequate!!
O I picked up a shortblock from Nitro557. Sweet deal. 460 stock bore. Scat crank J952, Trw L2443 pistons, Forged rods arp bolts etc.
I have some D3 heads milled with screw in studs. I am gettin there. Slowly

Great motor. Not my favorite 514, though.
The Ford Racing 514 is not your day-to-day 4.15" stroke 514 (4.44" bore). It is acually a 4.3 stroke 521 (4.39" bore).
I really like the 521 engines and think they are awesome for a jet boat, but Ford's version uses a crank with 2.500 rod journals. Also, if you purchase that engine the first thing you should do is partially disassemble it and check bearing clearances and adjust if necessary, retorque the bottom end and check all other requisite fasterners for proper torque. Even if you don't reset bearing clearances for marine use (as Ford recommends), at least pull the pan and check main and rod bolts, etc. You are purchasing what Ford considers a high performance engine and I have heard horror stories about how they stand behind their product as a result.
Taking all that into consideration, I'd prefer to buy the 514 or 521 rotating assembly and build the motor myself. It will cost less much than $8000, too.
If you want a lead to some great stroker kits, just PM me or reply here.
LO
Lets hear tha skinny on the 521 brotha man.

Generally speaking, the 521 makes a really great engine. You use a 6.800 rod and go from a 3.85 stroke to a 4.30 stroke. That's a .450" stroke increase, but thanks to the 6.800 rod the piston pin is only .060" lower in the bore at BDC than a stock motor.
You can buy a 521 (.030" over) or 533 (.080" over) SCAT rotating assembly for perhaps $1400, and it comes with brand new crank, rods, pistons, rings and bearings. All that's left to do is take your block down to the machine shop with the parts, balance the rotating assembly, machine the block and--oilah!--your shortblock parts and machining are done, maybe $2500.
Throw on some TFS A460 heads for $2200 completely assembled and brand new, and ultimately for less than the crate motor, you can have 800HP easy. And it's built just the way you want it/for your application.
I tell ya Ford aftermarket parts are getting so cheap and plentiful, it's awesome.
LO

I tell ya Ford aftermarket parts are getting so cheap and plentiful, it's awesome.
LO
Hey LO , are you trying to convert some bowtie freak's minds here ;) :D ?

Hey LO , are you trying to convert some bowtie freak's minds here ;) :D ?
S.O. He doesn't have to....They are switching on their own :eek: :D :D :D

IMO You can do better building a 514 from parts than buying the crate engine. As Lakes said the FRP crank rod journals are 2.500" and have had rod issues in the past. I prefer the 2.200" rod journal and the 6.800" long rod as it reduces side loading and are more common The smaller journal reduces bearing speed which can be a problem if you spin the engine in the 7K range. Also FRP recommends increasing the bearing clearance if the engine is to be used for marine use. These engines are primarly sold for street use where a tighter bearing clearance is needed for better oil control but that can bite you in the ass in a boat where the rpms are constently above 5K. It takes a lot of oil flow to lube the 3" mains the BBF has.

Hey Paul, can you tell me what the factory 514 rod and main clearances are and what Ford recommends for marine use?
Thanks
Vern