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Started taking apart my $350 eBay spare (455) motor this weekend - looks like I may have lucked out again - dropped the pan and found this:
http://www.hotboatpics.com/pics/data...asting-med.JPG
Unless I miss my guess, this is one of the fabled "nodular" cranks, that's a good thing, (right)??? My question here is would there be any markings or stampings that would tell me if/how much the rods and mains have been turned? What's the standard practice by machine shops (or is there one)?
Now, for the other "mystery" part - here's a pic of the oil pump:
http://www.hotboatpics.com/pics/data..._Tag_1-med.JPG
Is there any significance to that tag on there, I thought maybe the "M" designation might be Mondello (or maybe Melling)? There's also a long "sleeve" looking thing that has a spring in it retained by a cotter key - makes me a little nervous, but what is it's deal?
Anyway, that's all for now - thanks for any insight!!!!
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the bearings should say on the back. I think most 455 cranks are the nodular. if the block isn't cracked you got a decent deal. why chance a used unknown oil pump. they are only a few bucks for some piece of mind. but it's also not hard to check the clearances either. you know the drill, search www.realoldspower.com. on the crank. edit, oh and the spring dealio is the bypass. R.B.
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Yes thats a nodular crank, good part.
The oil pump is a melling, not a high volume. The long sleeve with the spring and cotter key is the bypass spring.
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Yup, nodular crank, better than a non-nodular, still not a forged.....
Standard issue melling pump.
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I would say a telescoping gauge and a michrometer.
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Thanks for your help folks and thanks a BUNCH for all of the info - pulled some rod caps yesterday, all of the bearings and surfaces look amazing, this thing couldn't have more than a few hours of run time on it - rod bearings were marked as .010's, so there's my answer there - Another quick question - that spring in the oil pump - is that the one I'm supposed to "stretch" to try and help the oil pressure, or ? Thanks again for everything.........
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As far as oil tolerances go and what not if you have the time i would still mich the rods and caps if for no other reason to see how round they are. Also who knows who put the motor together ya know. they might have used the wrong stuff. my .02
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Thanks for your help folks and thanks a BUNCH for all of the info - pulled some rod caps yesterday, all of the bearings and surfaces look amazing, this thing couldn't have more than a few hours of run time on it - rod bearings were marked as .010's, so there's my answer there - Another quick question - that spring in the oil pump - is that the one I'm supposed to "stretch" to try and help the oil pressure, or ? Thanks again for everything.........
To increase oil pressure, you need to pull the cotter pin and washer out. You need to add a couple washers between the cotter pin and spring. Mondello sells a high pressure oil pump spring, part number PS-110 for $14. I put it in mine and it raised oil pressure quiet a bit. I was having low oil pressure issues when the oil got hot. Raised my oil pressure about 20 psi.
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Thanks for your help folks and thanks a BUNCH for all of the info - pulled some rod caps yesterday, all of the bearings and surfaces look amazing, this thing couldn't have more than a few hours of run time on it - rod bearings were marked as .010's, so there's my answer there - Another quick question - that spring in the oil pump - is that the one I'm supposed to "stretch" to try and help the oil pressure, or ? Thanks again for everything.........
Stretching the spring is a crutch fix for other problems. low oil pressure is caused by excessive clearances in the engine or a faulty oil pump, which may include that spring. You can stretch it or shim it and get some effect, but at some point the cause of the low oil pressure is gonna bite you in the butt and you will probably be somewhere that you can't do anything about it. Nothing sucks more than a worn lifter cocking in the hole, hanging up and punching a valve through the top of a piston. Been there, done that don't recomend it. If everything is within tolerances and you just want more flow get a better grade oil pump, you will never regret the decision and you won't wonder if the crutch fix is going to hold up. Just my thoughts though
