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Recently purchased 1975 20' Southwind with a Ford 460, not sure what is inside yet. At first boat would not make it past 2800 rpm without starving. Replaced intire fuel system with 3/8" USCG fuel line to Racor fuel filter and water seperator system to large opening maual fuel block switch to Holley Blue electric fuel pump to holley regulator to holley 750 single pumper that I had ceramic coated and added rear metering block sitting on a Performer RPM intake with a K & N 10" by 3" air filter. Replaced distributer with sotck hei and module and Accell yellow super coil timing set around 32-36 degrees advanced, and water injected Bassett headers with new style baffles. Boat will now do 4500 rpm reliably at WOT and speedo is saying 54mph ??? I think that my Berkly JG (I think JG is the model) has an A impeller that I think could use a new edge on the impeller blades. I would like to paint the boat (top, bottom, and inside)as well as restore the interier also. This is my first boat project and would like for it to be a positive one for my 12 year old son and myself. I am familiar somewhat with boat safety from my earlier days of sailboats. Any help, guidance, or informative feedback would be of great appreaciation Also pictures or brochures of boat in it's original form would be nice. Thanks TCJET
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With a tight motor and pump, those numbers seem about right. Do you know the cam specs and what type of heads you are running? You WILL also want to try this site. http://321website.com/members/forum/...e=realjetboats
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I'm also a recent entry in the Jet Boat hobby and the consensus I get from many are to refine the jet (JG). Pump blue-printing for efficiency. It sounds like your powerplant is pretty well sound now. You could possibly bump the timing (ADV/RET) or jet the carb (UP/DOWN). I also have the Berkeley JG and it came with a "Loader" and "Ride Plate w/Shoe". The loader, as I'm told, helps feed the jet completely (top of input) at speed. The ride plate helps the hull plane out, possibly some mph. The shoe is a horse-shoe shaped item that lowers the entry of the pump inlet slightly and integrates the leading edge of the ride plate to the hull. Next I'd like to get a "Droop Snoot" which is a outlet/nozzle reducer. I'm more interested in top speed than take-off and most people recommend a Place Diverter (it helps you acquire the ideal plane for speed) first but those are more expensive. Since I'm on a limited budget and most of that stuff came with the boat, currently I'm focusing on creating max torque out of the powerplant too.
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I hope you are not building torque at the expense of HP.
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I have just recently finished exact same boat. See my post titled "Terrible Timing". Email me at jroos@bellsouth.net. Have pictures and tons of info, Do`s and Don`ts.
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JROOS, Thanks for your imput and help. If you can plese send the pics, info, do's, and don'ts to tcooley@shellus.com
Glastronguy, Thanks for the info, I'm trying not to loose either, I am not sure what cam I have at this point or what heads or rods.
Does anybody have any suggestions as for as when I rebuild my pump should I stay with the "A" impeller or have it cut to a different spec like "B" and what would it give me and where would my torque and hp need to be.
MoJetBoPar, Thanks for the info these jets are pretty cool eh'.
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TCJET, stay with the A impeller, do not use a droop snoot because this boat is a mini daycruiser and the hulls bottom spends its entire life in the water. Do get a place diverter. You should have a grate style loader, keep it, anything else will over load the pump. Keep it real, this boat is heavy and will not set speed records. These boats where built in Texas and mostly sold in California. They are made of heavy woven and are built tough. Fun boat for all around pleasure. Most of these hulls were rigged at Guardian. My guess is that the block is original which meens that its a marine block same as mine. Your boat has been upgraded with headers, so my guess is the cam has been swapped also. If not, you have a stock Ford marine cam. I don`t understand why you run 53mph, mine went 63(here in New Orleans) with the original motor. My bottom was coated with an orange peel (more like grape fruit) coating. If yous is, do not sand it off like I did, you will run slower. I repainted mine using rock guard on the bottom and my speed came back. This is on the bottom do reduce friction, or water retention. Remember, this hull will never fully come out of the water. GS marine can help you or Ron Sporal Racing Enterprises with power after market applications. These two guys have been doin` this a long time and know what to do. I`ve dealt with both, and have had great success.I came from rods, thinkin` this would be cheaper and easier, boy was I wrong. I was burnt on cars and after flippin` my Monza, decided for a change(with the help of the courts and the police) and am not sorry I did. Only regret is that I didn`t do it sooner. Will get back to you with pics. Oh yeah, first thing I did when boat came home was yank the damn railing off, talk about a race look.
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A place Diverter makes a tremendous difference. You might find a used one at jet boat performance . They are on the net or check out the web site below under Jim Hall. Also something you might want to check is if the bottom has a hook in it.Lay a straight edge on bottom from transom forward and see if there is any gap between. If there is,it is probably a candidate for reworking.
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A place diverter is not a good idea, rather a must. Don`t leave home without it. I forgot TC, I strongly recommend a rudder, the small one is all you need in this boat. And Jim Hall, this particular boat is actually built with a "HOOK". As for me, I plan to run a tunnel with 2 600`s this Summer, my setup with the 750 is fine but more show is finer.
