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I finally got enough warm weather to glue the jet back into my CVX 20. Next step is to install the Big Bad Ford. So before starting I want to get any suggestions, tips etc that anyone will offer. I have some initial questions that I could use clarity on. Like, I assume I bolt the driveshaft to the engine first & then slide it onto the pump shaft. is it easier to put the rubber exhaust in before or after the engine is set in place? Any other BOAT ONLY considerations when setting an engine? I have been R&R ing auto engines most of my life but this is the first marine app and I would like to get ahead of the learning curve on this one cause I really really want to get this boat wet. :D
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Howdy, Thor! Getting ready to stick my motor back in too. I can definitely say to have the exhaust boots on the tips first, if your logs are like mine, you'll never get 'em on once the motor is in. You have gotta guide the exhaust onto the boots and the h bar to the jet input shaft as you set the motor in. And it is a REAL bear to bolt the motor mounts to the stringers; an air ratchet, long skinny arms and patience go a long way here! If you are thinking about detailing/painting the engine bay, do it before the motor goes in. How's the steering & fwd/reverse cables? Much easier to replace with the motor out. Obviously, you need to have the back seat out and engine cover off... I'll chime in again if I think of anything else.
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Here's another one: do you have an oil drain hose coming off the pan already? Ya know, the adapter fitting that goes into the oil drain plug hole with a hose coming off it to do the oil changes. As far as I'm concerned, it's a must have!
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I've always found it easier to set the engine in with the driveshaft connected, then slide the headers into the boots, and fit them to the engine.
Less to have to screw with when you are trying to wrestle the engine in.
Ken F
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if you have stainless bolts don't get to crazy with the air rachet,they will gauld and snap right off and be sure to use anti sieze on everything.
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Howdy, Thor! Getting ready to stick my motor back in too. I can definitely say to have the exhaust boots on the tips first, if your logs are like mine, you'll never get 'em on once the motor is in. You have gotta guide the exhaust onto the boots and the h bar to the jet input shaft as you set the motor in. And it is a REAL bear to bolt the motor mounts to the stringers; an air ratchet, long skinny arms and patience go a long way here! If you are thinking about detailing/painting the engine bay, do it before the motor goes in. How's the steering & fwd/reverse cables? Much easier to replace with the motor out. Obviously, you need to have the back seat out and engine cover off... I'll chime in again if I think of anything else.
Hey Sand, I been meaning to get a hold of you. What is the length of the rubber exhaust hose on your boat? I would rather get some stuff cut to approximate length from a known number than have to guess based on motormount to exhaust tip lengths. I also don't want to have to set the engine in, measure it and then pull the thing out again if I can help it.
Thanks for all the suggestions everyone, I am awaiting a few more parts before the big day but I got the itch real bad. I almost took it to the river w/o the engine just to sit in it. Told my wife I had to check for leaks! She made me sheetrock the bedroom wall instead. ARRRGH!
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Thor, the boots are 3 1/2" long on mine. Keep in mind that there are several different lengths of wet logs for 460's. Mine are exactly 14" from the rearmost manifold bolt (across the snail) to the end on the right side. The left is 16 1/2" from rear bolt to end because of the head stagger. That puts them basically right on the tips, like 1/2" clearance between the end of the log and the tip which is glued to the hull. I ended up trimming like 1/4" off the boots since they were keeping the motor from setting back far enough to let the pump-to-bellhousing clamp line up. That's what I mean about putting on the boots first- you'd never get em on with the motor bolted in.
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I've always found it easier to set the engine in with the driveshaft connected, then slide the headers into the boots, and fit them to the engine.
Less to have to screw with when you are trying to wrestle the engine in.
Ken F
Ken, I envy your beautiful boat with it's big open engine bay. But these CVX's have only like an inch or so clearance between boat and motor in several spots. I have pulled and installed the logs with the motor in the boat, had to use tape around the exhaust bolts to keep them from sliding out and interfering with the side bulkheads of the engine compartment. Then wrangling in the logs while basically standing on my head- not fun! Since us CVX guys have to do gymnastics when working on our engines, it makes it pretty important to get all the ducks lined up just right like Thor is doing.
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Thor, the boots are 3 1/2" long on mine. Keep in mind that there are several different lengths of wet logs for 460's. Mine are exactly 14" from the rearmost manifold bolt (across the snail) to the end on the right side. The left is 16 1/2" from rear bolt to end because of the head stagger. That puts them basically right on the tips, like 1/2" clearance between the end of the log and the tip which is glued to the hull. I ended up trimming like 1/4" off the boots since they were keeping the motor from setting back far enough to let the pump-to-bellhousing clamp line up. That's what I mean about putting on the boots first- you'd never get em on with the motor bolted in.
I have the factory logs I think they even say Berekley on them. I will measure mine and see how close they come to yours. Thanks
