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Hey guys, not an attempt at spam, however, I tried the AMSOIL 20-50 and I like the results. Cold idle pressure was up, and help up when hot. I ran the hell out her and I can stay wide open alot longer (drainback on a 455) than I could with conventional oil. Plus, after a hard day on fresh oil, it would turn black, this oil is still red. Its expensive, but I tink it might be well worth it.
Great info WET DREAM, I was curious if anyone has used it cause I was going to give it a try myself but went for valvoline again. My local parts shop guy told me it's the best synthetic out there compaired to mobil 1 wich is only 30 percent synthetic. I went with 20-50 valvoline with the lucas additive wich was the thickest goop I've seen. Oil pressure was 10psi higher at idle and the valve train was not as noisey. next time I will use the AMSOIL.
DANO
The engine builder that I use recommends Torqo 20-50. I've used this oil for 3 years and have never had a problem. Running to the pin for an hour at a time and no pressure drop or foaming. Good oil is worth the money.
I haven't tried the amsoil in any of my jetboats but at the recommendation of a fellow racer, :confused: I did run the synthetic amsoil two stroke oil in my racing pwc for a year and just recently had a problem with my carburators fouling up. A gallon of the red racing amsoil was not mixing properly with the gas and made a gel like solution that would not go through the fuel filter properly and when it did it fouled up my jets in the carburators. I realize that I am talking about two different applications. One being a two stroke with the mixing of oil and gas and the other a four stroke application in a supposedly separate envirionment. Just wondering about the quality control across the board. I hope this is the one and only foul up by amsoil. Kojac...
Bill I"ll give you a call Tuesday....I gotta do an oil change this week.
Hey Guys,
I have 13 quarts of Amsoil 20/50 in my boat right now. It's one of the best lubricants I've ever run in any motor.
Below is a copy of something I wrote a few months ago:
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As we all know, motor oil performs several tasks. Primarily, of course, it is a lubricant. It also acts as a seal, a cooling agent, a cleaning agent, a corrosion inhibitor and more, all of which are equally noteworthy. Choosing the proper lubricant for the application is also important.
I personally am a strong believer in TRUE synthetics. True synthetic base stocks have a much higher film strength than conventional motor oils (so strong, in fact, that piston rings in a newly assembled engine may not even seat. So always break in a motor with a petroleum-based oil before switching to a synthetic). They also have higher volatility ratings and maintain their viscosity better over very wide temperature ranges, and so on. I have run an auto engine 88,000 miles on synthetic lubricants (Amsol) and then partially disassembled it (for the hell of it) and it still looked brand new inside. Another I ran for more than 32,000 miles (Amsoil) without ever changing the oil (to make a point to someone). Both motors are running fine.
But the term "synthetic" is being thrown around by oil manufacturers a little loosely these days. Castrol Syntec, for example, quietly changed their formula to a PETROLEUM-BASE STOCK that had the moleclues re-arranged in the laboratory. They still called it a synthetic and offered data in court that supported testimony that the restructured molecules virtually equalled the properties of synthetic-base stock. The joke is that this inexpensively manufactured oil is being sold to the consumer for the same price as the real stuff. Also, because they won in court, it muddies the term "synthetic" and makes it easier for a manufacturer to CLAIM their oil is synthetic.
Some of the real synthetic-base stock lubricants include Mobil 1, Amsoil and Redline, among others.
I studied lubricants formally for some time, and the only arguement that I feel even comes close against synthetics is that because of the extended oil change intervals, they may become diluted and contaminated by unburned fuel and combustion byproducts blowing past the piston rings (in all engines). While this may be true, remember that the properties of synthetic lubricants are far superior to convention motor oils to begin with. Also, most of us on this forum run 8 to 14 quarts of oil in our motors (reducing the percentage of dilution) AND change oil frequently. So I don't think the arguement flies in our case.
You will protect your internal engine components better with a synthetic lubricant. It is better for cold start-up and hot running conditions and will maintain a more consistent oil pressure over the extremes. This is not to say that petroleum based oils haven't gotten far better over recent years. I just believe the true synthetic based stock is the better lubricant.
Well, it's a better lubricant for motors anyway.......