Reply With QuotePrime the motor with a priming tool just before you start it and you won't have to worry about that stuff. Cheap insurance.
I am going to build my motor within the next 2 weeksand it will be sitting for about 3 weeks. If I put the cam lube on the cam do I have to worry about it when I go to fire it up? also, what about the engine assembly lube on the mains an rods?Will it be there when I fire it up? Usually when I build a motor I fire it up the next day so I never ha to deal with this.
396
Prime the motor with a priming tool just before you start it and you won't have to worry about that stuff. Cheap insurance.
Damn Fiat AGAIN you came throught for meI can never thank you enough
396
As long as this is the Chevy and not the Olds, you'll be fine.
I assume it's a flat tappet so here is what I do. I apply the moly lube to the lifter bottoms and all over the cam lobe. I rub it in good and put it on thick. Then I put in a can of Gm oil supplement available at any gm dealer.
Overfill the crankcase by about 3 qts. This I so oil will splash on the cam..that is what lubes it..splash oiling. Then I prime the oil system with an old distributor modified for that purpose.
Then I make sure the carbs have fuel...all the ducks in a row where she will fire without a lot of turning over. Then I never let the engine see below 2500 for the first 30 minutes of operation.
I pray a lot during the first 30 minutes.
Then I shut it off and check all the valves..hoping the cam has not gone flat. If it was a real big flat tappet cam...I would have put lighter tension valve springs on for break in. So now I would change the springs.
Then I would drain the oil to the proper level.
Then I wonder why in the hell I went to all this trouble and didn't put a roller cam in it in the first place.
Originally posted by Fiat48
Then I wonder why in the hell I went to all this trouble and didn't put a roller cam in it in the first place.
Yeah, but then you'd sit around wondering what you would be doing if you weren't running the valves with the rest of us solid lifter guys...
Or in the case of my "FULL ROLLER" Schiada that ended up with those hydraulic lifters... I guess if you don't break them in the right way the rollers go away.
Originally posted by jordanpaulk
Yeah, but then you'd sit around wondering what you would be doing if you weren't running the valves with the rest of us solid lifter guys...
Or in the case of my "FULL ROLLER" Schiada that ended up with those hydraulic lifters... I guess if you don't break them in the right way the rollers go away.
I believe you had a rocker failure...and the broken roller was aftermath damage. With the rocker broken..nobody to hold the roller in place and she gets smacked.
In the past 10 years I have only broken one roller..and that was caused by a broken rocker stud. A brand new ARP killer rocker stuff I might add.
The funny thing, there was no roller lifter in my "full" roller engine. It was hydraulic. I think once the exhaust rocker let go, the intake lifter shit the bed shortly after because it was $29.99 for the set and couldn't take fighting the cylinder pressure any more...
Originally posted by jordanpaulk
The funny thing, there was no roller lifter in my "full" roller engine. It was hydraulic. I think once the exhaust rocker let go, the intake lifter shit the bed shortly after because it was $29.99 for the set and couldn't take fighting the cylinder pressure any more...
Picture this:
Exhaust rocker breaks. Exhaust valve doesn't open during it's cycle. Now the intake valve opens with opposing force...cause those exhaust gases had no place to go. Exhaust tries to get out the intake valve but supercharger says it ain't gonna happen. So......weakest link in the chain gives it up. Pushrod and/or lifter.
You were hydraulic roller as I remember in the pictures.
ok now i am trying to type drunk at 2am
Posting Permissions