Can anyone tell me what to do to get a performance cam to work? Push rods, springs, keepers (locks), rockers, guide plates, studs? I bought some roller rockers which are extruded from 6061 T6 Aluminum. From what I have found so far I still need about $500-$600 worth of the above parts to make any larger than .500" lift work. I am planning on CompCams Extreme Marine 278 or 280. Then a couple of hundred more for valve covers. I have read that the keepers and springs are extremely important to keep from dropping a valve. They also cost more than I paid for the engine.
I have a 1979 CVX 20 with a 1970 Lincoln 460 with D0VE-C heads (10.5-1) and "A" impeller in the 12JE pump that I am rebuilding.
I am looking for a diverter.
I will get a "straight up timing set". Does it need the bearing and lock plate set that I have seen advertised?
What about oil pressure drop over 3700 rpm? The pan is front sump with the Ford factory baffle. This was with the old 1979 block and heads. Bearings look good so far. I did read oil pressure with a mechanical gauge off of the rear oil pressure port. I wonder if the remote oil filter (new filter) could cause this problem.
Does anyone make a chrome valve cover that fits over the roller rockers?
Thanks for any ideas you have.
Ed
Why wont the rockers work? Do you heads have the rocker studs with the stops on them? if so replace those. Clay smith makes nice rocker studs, if the stock rockers have a rail on them that goes over the valve stem then you will need guide plates, depending on the rocker you choose you may need to cut the pedistal for the rocker stud down the thickness of the guide plate.
The oil issue, buy some smith bros restricted push rods so you dont pump the valve covers full. I have crower rockers under mickey thomson valve covers.
If you are putting a cam in then you will need the right springs, so yeah buy retainers and keepers at the same time.
And if you are going to do anything with your pump call Jack at MPD.