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Thread: Bypass Fuel System 1.0

  1. #21
    hondajoey
    i have a question on this type of bypass
    wont the fuel just take the path of least resistance and just keep flowing out the bypass instead of filling up the bowls, i know you guys are running them with out problems im just thinking you would end up with starvation

  2. #22
    Infomaniac
    i have a question on this type of bypass
    wont the fuel just take the path of least resistance and just keep flowing out the bypass instead of filling up the bowls, i know you guys are running them with out problems im just thinking you would end up with starvation
    That is a very good question.
    The bypass valve is closed until the pressure AHEAD of it reaches the pressure you have set it to.
    It will then open as much as necessary to MAINTAIN the pressure you set it to.
    That is the wonderful advantage of a bypass system. It is in parallel with the carbs and not in series. The carbs have fuel "priority" so to speak.

  3. #23
    hondajoey
    so i just reread your original post and i think i see how you are plumbing this, so you have the regulator before the return line after your fill line and that is how you are regulating your pressure?

  4. #24
    Infomaniac
    so i just reread your original post and i think i see how you are plumbing this, so you have the regulator before the return line after your fill line and that is how you are regulating your pressure?
    You got it.
    This is much better than a typical regulator. A typical regulator is in between the pump and carbs. It regulates pressure after itself and is very restrictive.
    In this type of system fuel flows freely between the pump and carbs. Except for my forged 90 degree fittings LOL

  5. #25
    Heatseeker
    Heatseeker, I like that. But I'm not a fan of forged 90's in fuel systems. Also I don't like teflon tape as it always seems to get in the needle & seats.
    I'd keep the regulator close to the log myself.
    Info, I'm sure he made that as I know he's pretty crafty. Looks like he did a nice job on that scoop too.
    I plan to start making them also but I'm going to weld AN bungs on them. Like I said, maybe we could come up with a slick tee on the inlet too.
    Thanks for the props!
    Here's another shot of the scoop after it was finished:
    http://www.***boat.com/image_center/...99scoopfrt.jpg
    I added the dogleg to the opening to make it look a little different. I'm not sure if I like it or not yet. The scoop was a bitch to fab/polish(it's made from .060" 316 stainless sheet). I probably have around 15 hours in it start to finish!
    I would have used weld AN bungs if I knew they were available when I made the log two years ago(maybe I'll make another one,dammit!). So far I've been lucky with the teflon tape. It just never seemed right to use the teflon paste to me. It seems like the gas would dissolve it. I guess I'm a little hard headed :notam: . I'm open to a slicker log inlet. Let's see what you can come up with.

  6. #26
    Taylorman
    Thanks for the props!
    Here's another shot of the scoop after it was finished:
    http://www.***boat.com/image_center/...99scoopfrt.jpg
    I added the dogleg to the opening to make it look a little different. I'm not sure if I like it or not yet. The scoop was a bitch to fab/polish(it's made from .060" 316 stainless sheet). I probably have around 15 hours in it start to finish!
    I would have used weld AN bungs if I knew they were available when I made the log two years ago(maybe I'll make another one,dammit!). So far I've been lucky with the teflon tape. It just never seemed right to use the teflon paste to me. It seems like the gas would dissolve it. I guess I'm a little hard headed :notam: . I'm open to a slicker log inlet. Let's see what you can come up with.
    The only thing i would do different is eliminate the forged 90 fittings. The two that go to the carb you could replace with a straight NPT-Female swivel AN fitting. They would screw into the log and attach to the an fitting on the carb lines. One like this. Also put a 90 hose end instead of the forged 90 adapter fitting on the fuel inlet on the log.
    http://www.russellperformance.com/au...mages/23-3.jpg

  7. #27
    Taylorman
    Here is a little diagram of how im going to plumb my nitrous with a bypass regulator. Im going with a small nitrous kit and im going to use a 3 outlet regulator. 2 outlets to the carb one to nitrous. Any suggestions?

  8. #28
    Infomaniac
    The only thing i would do different is eliminate the forged 90 fittings. The two that go to the carb you could replace with a straight NPT-Female swivel AN fitting. They would screw into the log and attach to the an fitting on the carb lines. One like this. Also put a 90 hose end instead of the forged 90 adapter fitting on the fuel inlet on the log.
    http://www.russellperformance.com/au...mages/23-3.jpg
    Where do you get those NPT swivel fittings?
    Does SuperDave013 have them?

  9. #29

  10. #30
    superdave013
    Where do you get those NPT swivel fittings?
    Does SuperDave013 have them?
    that's one item I have not ordered yet. But it's in the plan. Info, if you want them I'll put in the order today!

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