Im making a rail kit for my 455. Im using a motor plate that one of the olds vendors makes for cars but a little customized for me to work in my boat.
http://www.rocketracingperformance.c...otor_plate.jpg
I also bought this rear mount
http://i8.ebayimg.com/03/i/05/23/23/c4_1.JPG
Im gonna get some angle iron for the rails. My question is should i mount the angle iron so it rests on top of the stringer and the plate will sit on top of the angle iron or should i mount it like rail kits are typically mounted?
With my limited experience, which is none, I would put one leg of the angle against the inside of the stringer, and thru bolt, with the other leg facing inward. If you put it on top of the stringer, you would not be able to put bolts thru the angle. They would go into the stringer.
#2. I would use aluminum or stainless angle, rather than steel. Bling factor, as well as corrosion resistance.
There's a really good article about rail kits in the October issue of Hot Boat Mag, it has some really good pictures as well, which you might want to reference.
definitely put the angle between the stringers so you can throughbolt. Make sure you measure very carefully before you start trimming pieces to fit...
With my limited experience, which is none, I would put one leg of the angle against the inside of the stringer, and thru bolt, with the other leg facing inward. If you put it on top of the stringer, you would not be able to put bolts thru the angle. They would go into the stringer.
#2. I would use aluminum or stainless angle, rather than steel. Bling factor, as well as corrosion resistance.
That would be the most simple way of doing it and is how most of the drag boats are set up. It seems the circle, endurance and off shore racers do it the other way.
On of the few jets I've seen set up that way is owned by LGC Devil. You should ask him if he could post some pics of the way his boat's rigged. It's very nice and looks super stout.
if you used something bigger than 2.5X2.5 for the angle, say 2.5X4 you could lay the angle on top of the stringer and still throughbolt it. I like the idea of having the plates sitting between the stringers though. Make sure you use backing plates to sandwhich the stringer though.... Im not sure how many bolts to use for throughbolting, I initially drilled mine for 4 throughbolts over 40 inches of rail. But Ive seen a few in pix that have more, so ill add a few more in between the ones I already drilled.
I have some pictures on my home computer. The angle layes on top of the stringer and the motor plates sit on top of the angle. Then a small piece of angle is bolted to the motor plate and through bolted through the stringer.
Why not have some flat stock bent into a c-channel? Any metal shop should have a brake capable of that.
Hey Kevin............. You are meaning aluminum angle, not iron, right? If you need pics, let me know and I'll send you some.
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