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Thread: 455 guy's..engine buildup

  1. #1
    SSTSleakcraft
    I missed a few pics during assembly like double drilling the crank on 2 and 4 mains, pouring the alloy into the heads, doing the oil return on heads and block, blueprinting the oil pump and other misc. stuff but here it is.
    http://www.***boat.com/image_center/...06/2151208.jpg
    Restrictors in block and bearings drilled and slotted
    http://www.***boat.com/image_center/...00/2151209.jpg
    Polished beams, ARP bolts, .040 TRW's and balanced.
    http://www.***boat.com/image_center/...00/2151210.jpg
    Rods notched on big end.
    http://www.***boat.com/image_center/...06/2151213.jpg
    Mains studded, rear cap ported.
    http://www.***boat.com/image_center/...06/2151225.jpg
    Nodular iron crank, .020, .020, Cloyes timing set.
    http://www.***boat.com/image_center/...06/2151240.jpg
    Mondello pump and P/U reclearanced to .0025 end play, factory baffle.
    http://www.***boat.com/image_center/...06/2151214.jpg
    Degreeing Clay Smith solid(258@.050, 560 w/1.6 rocker) at 105 CL.
    I will have to do heads in a separate posting.

  2. #2
    SSTSleakcraft
    http://www.***boat.com/image_center/...06/2151234.jpg
    Melting the zinc alloy.
    http://www.***boat.com/image_center/...06/2151217.jpg
    E casting heads after porting, filling, and blending the exhaust crossover.
    http://www.***boat.com/image_center/...06/2151219.jpg
    Enlarging the drain hole, drill and tap for stainless hardline return.
    http://www.***boat.com/image_center/...06/2151237.jpg
    Tapping of rear of block for drain. 1.6 Lunati rockers, custom Howards pushrods.
    http://www.***boat.com/image_center/...06/2151233.jpg
    Prussian blue around intake ports to check port alignment.
    http://www.***boat.com/image_center/...06/2151229.jpg
    Layout fluid on intake. Notice dull area from prussian blue around ports after torque up. Scribe a line around the material needed to be removed.
    http://www.***boat.com/image_center/...06/2151230.jpg
    After porting scribe marks are gone.
    http://www.***boat.com/image_center/...06/2151245.jpg
    A perfectly aligned port.
    http://www.***boat.com/image_center/...06/2151250.jpg
    Painting with white eurethane.
    http://www.***boat.com/image_center/...06/2151255.jpg
    Ready for final assembly and run in stand.

  3. #3
    396_WAYS_TO_SPIT
    Nice job Thats thew way you do a 455 olds Maybe some of these rookies can take a few notes from this. The only thing I dont like is the .020 crank. That just scares me on any motor. Other than that, that is a real nice recipe for a olds Let us know how she runs. Are you going to dyno it? I am interested id seeing the torque numbers for that babay
    396

  4. #4
    SSTSleakcraft
    No dyno time planned at this time. I am going through the pump now also. I just need to cut another .005 off impellar OD. to achieve proper clearance, then off to balance it goes. Going with an 8 3/4 bronze. Will post pics soon on it. Thanks 396...

  5. #5
    victorfb
    looks pretty good man. what did you set the clearances at for the main and rod bearings? a little loose is my recommendation, but id have to look at my notes to see were i set my last 455 at. id also recommend a larger oil pan if you plan on useing it in a jet boat. ive had good luck with the dooley jet 10qt pan.

  6. #6
    SSTSleakcraft
    Thanks victorfb, the mains are all .0025, the rods at .002. I agree with the pan, I have a milodon full sump on my other boat and yet I chose the Toronado pan with the extra quart capacity to save a few bucks. Those drains I put on the heads really do work to keep the oil in the pan. I also run a oil cooler which helps tremendously on the bonzai runs.

  7. #7
    victorfb
    if i remember correctly, those are the factory specs for an automotive 455 motor. a little tight in my opinion for a marine motor but im sure youll be ok. id stay with a 10-40 oil, and if you can, go with a 10 qt pan. also the olds heads have some heavy casting inside the intake ports and can be flowed quite a bit better by just removing alot of the obstruction. especailly around the seat area. it looks as if you have allready assembled quite a bit of it, but in the future id suggest doing some mild porting to those heads. its amazing the increase you can get by just a little mild porting to both the intake and exh.

  8. #8
    victorfb
    ok, after a closer look at the pics, i see some porting, or atleast smoothing of the intake ports. very cool.

  9. #9
    SSTSleakcraft
    Without posting all the flows at all lifts, the intakes flowed 258 cfm at .550 lift and exhaust 175 at .550. 30 degree intake, 45 exhaust.

  10. #10
    SSTSleakcraft
    I forgot to add earlier that factory clearance on bearings are 1-4 mains, .0005-.0021 and #5 .002-.0034, and rods are .0004-.0033.

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