Any Idea's?? (Long)

[Cas42]

Hallett,
I know exactly what you're trying to say, I experienced it and it sucked (literally).
This is, it happens more than people realize.

[riodog]

Did anyone think to do a compression test or a leakdown test? This will tell you if you have a blown headgasket or not. At least you will be able to rule out a couple of things.
If you get no answers that way, then you might try hooking a hose to the motor and connecting a gate valve to the water "dump" side of the motor and with the valve covers off, slowly close the valve and see if you can see any "unauthorized" water leaks as the pressure builds in the motor. Sounded good when I thought of it.
the dog
ps. if it's reversion, your comp. and leakdown should show normal.

[H8Monday]

Can anyone give me some expected numbers for a comp check on my BBF? Mr. 460?
by-the-way...thanks for all of your reply's, you guys have come up with a few idea's that had not occured to me.

[skeepwerkzaz]

I am not a Ford guy, but a quick web search should come up with a pile of Ford sights.
I am going to get on my soapbox here for a minute......
1) There is no way the water is coming from the exhaust, you just can't revert that much water and have an engine that runs AT ALL.
2) There is no way you should count on the engine after that. The cylinder that hydraulic locked probably caused some connecting rod/bearing damage and may already have at least a failing/spinning bearing.
3) Water is incompressable and the starter/ring gear tourque multiplication creates a tremendous amount of force on the internals of the engine. (many hundreds of foot pounds)
4) It has got to be the head gasket thast you haven't checked. It is always the last thing you check right? The Intake and cylinder head gaskets are really the only place this quantity of water can come from. Barring anything horrible like a cracked head. Could be a crack in the intake too!
Skeep
Good luck
Skeep

[mister460]

It's not so much how many lbs you have on a comp check, it's that they're all close. I would expect anywhere from 140-170lbs. A long duration cam will lower the number.
[This message has been edited by mister460 (edited September 26, 2001).]

[Cas42]

Skeep,
It's obvious you've never had it happen and I'm not sure you read H8's post correctly either. His engine wouldn't run nor even turn over after he got the water in it. The same thing happened to me except I filled 3 cylinders and no, it didn't cause any internal damage of any kind. I've run the boat and motor for at least 100 hrs since it happened.
I'm not saying this is his problem but it's another area for him to check out. Now, if you don't believe me, call CP Performance tell them you have water in a cylinder and ask them what could cause it.

[H8Monday]

I'm going to go with the "Flappers worn" idea.... along with the Bow-on-the-beach-fulcrum-water-pumping-up-and-down as a followup.
As I said... I have had the water in the oil, and a hint of it in the cylinder as per the rusty plug, but I have NEVER seen so much water in the engine at once. it MUST have been a combination of the ideas you guys have mentioned.

[flat broke]

I'm gonna go with Cas on this one. A couple of years ago when we were running our Eliminator Bubble, we had picked up some bad habbits from watching dad run I/Os when we were little. The boat we had prior to the Eliminator was this nasty tri-hull, but is all my brother and I could afford. Anyhow, we always beached that thing nose in without a problem. The first few times out with the Eliminator we did the same thing but ended up with water up the logs from the forces described above. Even with new inner flappers and clamp on flappers, the motion of the water washing up against the transom would lift the flapper and water would get up the exhaust.
Since then we always moor our boats nose out and have never had a problem since. Bring an anchor (I know its a pain) one of those bungee lines, a spike and another length of rope. Anchor off the bow a couple feet further out than you want to be, then pull the boat towards shore with the other line tied to the transom/ski pole/whatever. Tie that rope off to the spike in the beach and you don't have to worry about a thing. Then when you need to get into the boat and the ladies dont want to get wet, pull the boat closer to shore with the line off the stern(remember the line to the anchor will stretch to about 50' with enough force), hop in, then untie the line to the stern. The anchor line will pull you out to deeper water, where you disconnect your anchor(did I mention the bouy attached to the anchor clip? 8-) and off you go.
Just a thought,
Chris

[skeepwerkzaz]

Ok Guys,
I understand the theory behind the beaching thing.....BUT. If the entire ex-manifold filled with water (which would have to happen to fill a cylinder) then upon removing the spark plug GALLONS of water would have come out, at least what was in the manifold. If the cylinder was full the ex valve would have been open right? Unless he has burned ex valves. This is a head/gasket/manifold problem. I seriously don't think it is an exhaust problem. CP is a good place, but I have gotten alot of half thought out answers from them. They want to sell you new stuff, not fix the old. What # cyliner was it? Have you done a differential compression check yet? If not, and you haven't taken off the head yet, that may be a good next step. You can tell exactly where the leaks are in the engine. Intake, exhaust, crankcase etc.
Skeep

[rstover1]

Originally posted by skeepwerkzaz:
Ok Guys,
I understand the theory behind the beaching thing.....BUT. If the entire ex-manifold filled with water (which would have to happen to fill a cylinder) then upon removing the spark plug GALLONS of water would have come out, at least what was in the manifold. If the cylinder was full the ex valve would have been open right? Unless he has burned ex valves. This is a head/gasket/manifold problem. I seriously don't think it is an exhaust problem. CP is a good place, but I have gotten alot of half thought out answers from them. They want to sell you new stuff, not fix the old. What # cyliner was it? Have you done a differential compression check yet? If not, and you haven't taken off the head yet, that may be a good next step. You can tell exactly where the leaks are in the engine. Intake, exhaust, crankcase etc.
Skeep
I have to disagree here your exaust will cause a cylider or two to fill up with water..I've seen it if the exaust is remotly warm and those flaps are gone or worn out it will suck in water the logs could be cracked on the inside too..