Thinner and getting past the valve guides and or piston rings.
sorry I just don't see the need for these hi-dollar designer syn oils. True they may take extreme high temps better, but why is your engine getting that hot in the first place?
HD, my water temps usually run between 140 / 160 , I have gauges in ea. head. Just noticed one day at the lake a "coke" can had made its way back under the motor , heads and block were fairly cool but when I touched the Oil Pan .....SOB was HOT !!! I usually change oil once per season, this will be the 5th.?? maybe 6th. year on motor with no tear down ...( running WIX filter - cut open and checked often for particles -every 10hrs or so ) . I just figured if I go to synthetic @ $6qt. / 12qts= $ 72 ....not too bad for once a year , and maybe get another few years out of motor before having to rebuild ???
Yes I am a Tight Bastard !! and belive If it ain't broke - Don't F' with it !!!
I just figured if I go to synthetic @ $6qt. / 12qts= $ 72 ....not too bad for once a year , and maybe get another few years out of motor before having to rebuild ???
Yes I am a Tight Bastard !! and belive If it ain't broke - Don't F' with it !!!
None of us like to spend any more on any thing than we need to. I just feel if we put the best parts in and on a motor.....why not put the best oils in it?
I never had a problem with regular Valvoline 10-40. I switched when I could afford to and had nicer equipment to run. Not cause there was any problems with previous oils. Synthetics are just that....synthetic, man-made, engineered, whatever you want to call it. These lubes are genetically engineered (if you will) to stand up to heat and contaminants. They are DESIGNED to run cooler and lubricate better. I just think this is much better than just using what the dinosaurs left us. Maybe I'm way off, but that's how I look at it.
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