Reply With QuoteI also have a t handle valve for water for my water injected bassett headers pretty interesting stuff. What is the purpose of having water injected headers anyway?
I have a 455 with H2O injected headers. To be on the safe side, I installed a gate valve
between the water outlet and the pressure/T-valve. This way I can control the amount of water to the headers. I put it at the front of the engine so it and the throttle can be controlled easily at the same time. I'm in the habit of disconecting my pump if planning any long "dry" runs. At the same time you can hand spin your impeller and feel
for any thing weird.{bearing noise,slop}
I also have a t handle valve for water for my water injected bassett headers pretty interesting stuff. What is the purpose of having water injected headers anyway?
I have to agree with Flat Broke. When I jacked my pump up at Havasu (sucked rocks) and took it to Greg Shoemaker, the shaft was twisted, so that had to be replaced. When Greg was showing me the shaft, (the boats, not his) he told me that it looked as if the boat had been started on the trailer too many times as there were scoring marks on the shaft. -DD out
we have a short winter here in texas, so I never do anything to winterize the boat except drain the water out of the block in case i forget and leave the garage open too long on a sub-freezeing day. So to keep the fuel from going bad in the carb I start the boat for about 15 to 30 seconds every week or so. Been doing this for 20 years spred out over 7 differant jetboats and never had any trouble or damage. And its 100 miles to the closest lake, so I start it before leaving for the lake for a few seconds, BUT, if I,m going to run the motor any longer than that I'll uncouple the motor from the pump, hook up the water hose and you can run the motor all day(or till the cops show up).
There might be a small risk doing this, but who wants to get to the lake with a boat that wont start?
I use to do the same thing run the motor on the trailer periodically just to keep it from setting up during the winter. But if you talk to some of the pump guys across the U.S. they will tell you never to start it dry especially if you have a pump set up extremely tight. Because this just throws out all the tolerances you worked for to make it that way. Yeah it might not hurt the pump but you are loseing the tolerances you set up for and then loseing effeciency. If you run alot of valve spring press periodically during the winter I roll my motor over with a ratchet to keep the springs from setting is the same position all winter. But this is just my opinion there are many more out there. Later
whewwww scoring marks on the shaft thats not good!
Look, a pump was designed and made to run in the water, not on a trailer, dry. There is no reason to run a pump out of the water. If you really just want to hear the motor run because your missing the water, disconnect the pump and rev away on the motor all you want.
HBjet
When I got my pump back from MPD, I was told to never run it dry. Especialy because I have a Jacuzzi WJ which uses a polymer/plastic wear ring unlike the Berks and AT/Dom, etc which are stainless if I remember right.
You can spend 1200.00 and buy a Jet-Away from Duane Oblander in wichita kansas at Hi-Tech performance. Works great if ya have to do out of water tuning on a blower motor or other HP engines!
Always be sure ya have a water supplied to the engine block. I have a "T" right after the pressure releif valve where I hool up a water hose just before I fire mine up to work on it at home b4 we go to the lake--if ya do this in the winter months--be sure ya drain the block again and drain the headers--or CRACK!
crzyhotrod, whats a Jet-Away??
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