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Thread: thrust bearing replacement

  1. #11
    cave
    Let me rephrase that OLDSQUIRT. Its a Mother F ker to get it out but on the JG it slides out the back. I thought I was going to break the bolt Once I got it moving it got a bit easier. I had removed my pump from the boat.
    OH OH
    Duane, After I removed the C clip from the front and the bowl was off, I welded up a make do dealio and welded two nuts together slipped a bolt through and with time got it out. It wasnt easy. After I reached a certain point it was easy to pull out by hand. From the back. If that was wrong then I better get back to pulling everything back out.

  2. #12
    BigBlockBaja
    Id take the time and replace the bearing like they all suggest. I didnt replace mine and now im paying big time for it. In addition to just replacing the bearing, Im replacing everything but the shaft and the suction housing. Plus I had to yank the motor. Save yourself the $$ and time and just replace it.... Just my opinion

  3. #13
    Mighty Thor
    cave, you have a problem if your shaft came out the back. Pulling the shaft out the back with a puller or whatever is asking for a broken pump housing. The slinger ring behind the thrust bearing can NOT pass through the packing. Trying to do so can break the lip off of the suction housing that holds the packing in place.
    WHAT? Slinger Ring, I don't remember no stinking slinger ring? Oh crap, am I missing parts again? He has the JF insert pump, or to put it another way, he has the JE pump with the jetovator, bowl and all, right? That means the engine is sitting on the bearing retainer most likely. You can pull the C clip and loosen the packing ring and the shaft slides right out of both my JE and my JF
    but no way you are getting the bearing out without taking the engine off of the bearing retainer. And just a reminder that the snap ring goes in one way or it can come out of the groove and the impeller goes grindy grindy

  4. #14
    cave
    I have a Berkeley JG. Not a jf or je.

  5. #15
    Duane HTP
    Look at these two pump diagrams. Blow them up and you will see the slinger ring. On the JF pump, it is part # 60. On the JG Diagram, it is part # 12.
    http://www.hi-techperformance.com/images/12-JF.gif
    http://www.hi-techperformance.com/images/12-JC.GIF
    All Berkeley's have this part. It is what the suctiuon housing seal runs on. It is a pressed on part.

  6. #16
    cave
    That part according to Berkeley is a shaft sleeve. I know this cause I had to replace mine. Had a groove in it. I Pulled my packing out first before I pushed pump shaft out the rear. There was enough room to push it through without the packing. I welded up a deal to do it. I didn't have a press. Wish I would of kept the jig but I needed the steel for my other trailer. I buy a press next time around as it was a bitch trying to assemble, weld and strengthen as part of the removal.
    The Pump seams fine but guess I'll find out next weekend. Im leak testing tonight.

  7. #17
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Feb 2009
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    2,626
    Cave, I still cant figure out why you would go to all that trouble. It takes less than an hour to pull a JC/JG style pump. You save even more time and energy by being able to take it to a workbench for service.

  8. #18
    SmokinLowriderSS
    I have a 12-JF in my Taylor SS (yes, it's the "E" plus the factory nozle trim) and the shaft has to come out foreward on that pump. Pull the engine (first time I did it I just moved it sideways for a couple hours), the shaft cover is held on by allen-head bolts (if I recall correctly,) 4 or 6. It comes out easy just past the oil pan. Replace it as an insurance policy against this:
    http://p208.ezboard.com/fthetaylorbo...ssage?topicID= 71.topic
    It is also possible for a blown thrust bearing allow the pump shaft to push on the coupler, which pushes on your crankshaft. This transfers ALL the engine push to your ENGINE THRUST BEARING (VERY bad). This will wreck a crankshaft eventually (sooner than later).

  9. #19
    cave
    OLDSQUIRT I have a Kachina and the pump doesn't just come right out. I have to remove the bowl first from the rear. Then pull the pump out from the inside. I didn't know any better on which way the shaft was suppose to go. The shaft sleeve is not much thicker and it seamed like the right way to go. I have access to a press but its wasn't tall enough for the shaft. My bearing was frozen into the pump. either way it was going to be a bitch. I thought I chose the right way. I figured that if I pushed from the front it would be more stable. From the rear I thought it would snap the thin part of the bearing carrier on the pump. Ill find out Saturday night. I'm gunna test it on the trailer.
    I'll do it different next time.
    75jetboat, Sorry for the wrong info.

  10. #20
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Feb 2009
    Posts
    2,626
    OLDSQUIRT I have a Kachina and the pump doesn't just come right out. I have to remove the bowl first from the rear. Then pull the pump out from the inside.....
    That sounds a little, ummm, different. Got any pics of the transom?

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