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Thread: Adjusting Valves on a 460

  1. #1
    Hallett19
    what is the adjustment like, and what does it do, I have hydraulic lifters and double valve springs, but I am just curious how it works, what the "lash" is and whatnot, I get a ticking sound when I run it out at high rpms and it looses a litle oil psi. could that be valve adjustment or bad lifters possibly, it runs strong as hell, but that ticking sound........grrrrr....

  2. #2
    bobz
    sounds like your loosing oil pressure at high rpm. what does you gauge read? you might want to be careful!!

  3. #3
    lakesmodified
    Hallett, first you need to know if you have the adjustable or non-adjustable valve train on your 460. Most later model 460's (after about 1972) have non-adjustable rocker arms. If you have to adjust your valve train due to an aftermarket cam, you are stuck having to use shims below the rocker arm trunions(for more clearance), or slightly sand the trunion surface(for less clearance)that mounts to the pedalstals. To change your heads over to an adjustable valve train, you either have to have these pedalstals machined down and tapped to accept screw in studs and guide plates, or buy the Crane Cams retrofit kit, which comes with single guide plates and screw in studs. Though the later doesn't require removing the heads for machine work, it shouldn't be used for all out racing. Once you have the adjustable valve train, then you can adjust your preload to remove that anoying ticking. Ivan

  4. #4
    mister460
    Oooh! Ticking! Well, could be lots of things bud. "Lash" is the "slack" in your valvetrain. With hydraulic lifters this is kept at zero. Or supposed to be. With a solid cam you need to have a clearance between the rocker arm tip and valve for heat expansion. Basically, different metals expand at different rates and if you don't have clearance there the lifters, pusrods, rockers, and valves(mostly the valves) will expand and the valves won't close. Thereby burning them in short order. But, back to your setup, hydraulic lifters automatically adjust to maintain ZERO lash(or close to) during operation. This is done with oil and a piston insisde the lifter. Lifter "bleed down" or a term similar to it (depends on who you talk to) is what keeps the valves from being held open when everything heats up. With that said, adjust your valves like this: read a manual for the proper sequence for adjustment, then back the adjusting nut off until the pushrod spins freely with just your fingers. Then slowly run the nut down until you feel a slight drag on the pushrod. This is ZERO lash. Then tighten it another half turn. This preloads the lifter slightly so you won't have to adjust them for a long time. And it shouldn't tick. Alot of guys trying to avoid "pumping up" the lifters at high rpm set them at zero lash. But they do tick because the lifters bleed down a small amount. If your ticking doesn't go away after adjusting them and your oil pump is good, they're most likely bad. Oh yeah, make sure you don't have Rhoads or fast bleed lifters. They always tick. And you really shouldn't lose oil pressure at high r's. Well, I hope you understood my midday rambling because I don't think I did. If it was unclear just e-mail me and I'll try. I got up early this morning and it's a full hour past beer thirty!! Take it easy bro and you're one lucky bastard!!!!

  5. #5
    bobz
    as for the valve adjustment they should be set at zero lash plus a quarter turn with hydraulic lifters. the valve should be closed make sure the you dont have overlap and the valve is a little open or you will get valve float and loose power. not sure i explained it very well but its really not that hard. if you have a clicking noise at high rpm you should hear it at low rpm as well. you can track this down with a short wooden broom stick. stick one end where you think the noise is coming from and the other end in your ear. you will me amazed at what you hear. try the intake runners and then the exaust runners on each cylinder. good luck

  6. #6
    havakarl
    hallet19 it is possiable that it is a lifter with my hyd lifter 460 you tighten the valve to 0 lash plus 1/2 turn, followng the firing order in pairs, that ticking sound my not be a valve at all, check your heat riser block off plate for a leak, if you have gone roller on this motor then you have to live with it roller rockers make noise and it will sound just like a solid lifter motor and yes it drives me nuts as well, the other thing it could be is depending on age and any saltwater use it could be a clogged oil passage to that lifter. and just how much is a little oil pressure loss a stock 460 will idle a 40 psi and run at 60 psi (10/40w) with a 80 psi dump valve built into the oil pump, so if your loosing pressure running check your oil pan and make sure it is not dented or collasped from underneath this will reduce the clearance to the oil pick up, and with a FORD this is vitial with the pick up in the front of the motor, your oil pan should have a nice semi rounded shape at the bottom not flat, oh yea one other thing I have run into is your going to hate this (lifter bore)out of round and with the canted valve design of a 460 ie.. valves not in a perfect row this can happen especialy if your running low on oil at higher rpms

  7. #7
    gnarley
    Originally posted by Hallett19:
    I get a ticking sound when I run it out at high RPMs and it looses a little oil psi.
    Originally posted by mister460:
    And you really shouldn't lose oil pressure at high r's. Yes you can andwill if you overheat the oil!
    It's not loose valves even though they might like a little attention. When you run it out at high rpm's for a while the engine builds temp right? As the engine builds temp the oil is also getting warm and is loosing its viscosity due to the increase in heat. Then you see the gauge dropping pressure and start hearing the valves ticking cause the Hydraulic lifters cannot keep the adjustment up when the oil gets thin. Then you idle it for a while and see the engine temp drop and oil pressure start to rise again right? If this is the case look into adding an oil cooler it will keep your engine happy during the times your on it for a while and save your cash for gas.
    [This message has been edited by gnarley (edited April 12, 2002).]

  8. #8
    mister460
    Originally posted by gnarley:
    Originally posted by mister460:
    And you really shouldn't lose oil pressure at high r's. Yes you can andwill if you overheat the oil!
    [This message has been edited by gnarley (edited April 12, 2002).]
    G, you are correct that it can happen, but it shouldn't. If your oil is heating up to the point that the lifters can't adjust properly, your oil is way too hot. Also, hydraulic lifters tend to pump up at high rpms rather than bleed down.

  9. #9
    gnarley
    If your oil is heating up to the point that the lifters can't adjust properly, your oil is way too hot.[/B]
    Unfortunately I found this out all to well last week testing, mine did just that! Just bought the boat used and knew it need some work but was a good deal. It's a 454 w I/O and hyd lifters that should have had the factory oil cooler hooked up but was bypassed and @ 4000 and up developed heat and lost pressure, & even shuts off the fuel pump for saftey. The OEM engine builder said that was to be expected without the oil cooler installed and to get it hooked up! I ordered the correct hoses to re-plumb the cooler and changed the over-heated oil & filter and am replacing the sending unit to be sure.
    This thread just sounded like it was to close to home for me so felt I should share what just happened.
    Keep that oil cool & youÂ’ll be a happy dude

  10. #10
    Brendella
    hallet 19 if you like and need a little help in reconizing what you have I'll be more than willing. I'm in glendale as you know
    just call (818)502-0521brian

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