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Thread: Need ideas for my trailer

  1. #21
    dmontzsta
    Here is a question I need to throw in this thread.
    Anyone know where to get trailer tires or wheels? All the tire stores have gay wheels. I have 13" and was thinking of going with 14s or 15s. Thanks.

  2. #22
    wsuwrhr
    Well my boat has never been out of northern ca so I know it wasn't at havasu. But the led's work great. They are completely sealed and all have waterproof connectors. All connections were soldered with shrink tube with sealer in it. I shouldn't have any problems for a long time.
    http://www.schoutenranch.com/miscboat/plate.JPG
    Nice frame.
    Brian

  3. #23
    steelcomp
    This is more toward the practical issues of redoing a trailer, but I thought it might apply. When, and if you have your spring packs apart, it dosent hurt to clean them real good...wire brush or blast off the old rusty scales, and get them clean again. I sprayed mine with Rustoleum primer before I painted them...which only lasts a little while anyway, but helps slow down the rust. Also go through and rebuild your pivots. Replace the nylon bushings around the pivot bolts, and grease them up with marine grease. The best shackles I've seen are the ones with the grease zerts in the bolts...these should be greased on a regular basis, just like your wheel bearings (if you don't have bearing buddys). Your springs and shackles and pivots need to be able to move freely so they don't bind. If they can't, then the spring can't do it's job. Granted, most trailers are over-sprung anyway, since they have no shocks, but if the springs are full of crap, and the pivots and shackles are rusty and dirty, then things are going to be a lot stiffer and less forgiving. Another thing that really helps is to get your trailer tires and wheels balanced, just like your car. Another mistake is to use a regular nut and lockwasher on the pivot bolts. No no no. You need to replace the self locking nut on the pivot bolts (replace the whole bolt if it's worn too badly) and not over tighten them. This can also cause binding of the spring. Don't use nyloks here, either, use the deformed style all metal locking nut. All these things can add up if you don't pay attention to them, and if your trailer is old and worn out, chances are so is the suspension.

  4. #24
    GofastRacer
    This is more toward the practical issues of redoing a trailer, but I thought it might apply. When, and if you have your spring packs apart, it dosent hurt to clean them real good...wire brush or blast off the old rusty scales, and get them clean again. I sprayed mine with Rustoleum primer before I painted them...which only lasts a little while anyway, but helps slow down the rust. Also go through and rebuild your pivots. Replace the nylon bushings around the pivot bolts, and grease them up with marine grease. The best shackles I've seen are the ones with the grease zerts in the bolts...these should be greased on a regular basis, just like your wheel bearings (if you don't have bearing buddys). Your springs and shackles and pivots need to be able to move freely so they don't bind. If they can't, then the spring can't do it's job. Granted, most trailers are over-sprung anyway, since they have no shocks, but if the springs are full of crap, and the pivots and shackles are rusty and dirty, then things are going to be a lot stiffer and less forgiving. Another thing that really helps is to get your trailer tires and wheels balanced, just like your car. Another mistake is to use a regular nut and lockwasher on the pivot bolts. No no no. You need to replace the self locking nut on the pivot bolts (replace the whole bolt if it's worn too badly) and not over tighten them. This can also cause binding of the spring. Don't use nyloks here, either, use the deformed style all metal locking nut. All these things can add up if you don't pay attention to them, and if your trailer is old and worn out, chances are so is the suspension.
    To add to this, if you run Bearing Buddies you better make sure the wheels are balanced and the bearings are not loose or you "WILL" shuck the Bearing Buddies!.. Been there done that!..

  5. #25
    steelcomp
    If you already have steps on your trailer, you're going to have a hard rime setting your fenders anywhere but where they'll go. They don't flex a whole lot as I found out. I bought my frnders as replacement from Competitive, and found that if I set them any lower, there was a gap between the step and the fender (because of the rsdius of the fender) and they wouldn't go any higher. So this is where they stayed. I would have to have modifyed my steps to install wider fenders, as well, so I just went with stock 8". I was on a budget and wanted clean, but not expensive. I was also stuck with the offset these chrome rims had, and I had to rey three different tires to get the fender filled, but not too wide as to stick out. All in all, I did reach my goal. I get e lot of compliments on my trailer, I think because I took the time to get things balanced and proportional, but I didn't have to spend a lot of $. I also like the taller aspect ratio tires for clearance...I shore launch when ever I can, and it also helps in and out of driveways. IMO, trailers need to look cool, but need to function, too. :coffeycup
    http://www2.***boat.com/image_center...ler_ming04.jpg

  6. #26
    steelcomp
    To add to this, if you run Bearing Buddies you better make sure the wheels are balanced and the bearings are not loose or you "WILL" shuck the Bearing Buddies!.. Been there done that!..
    OOPS!

  7. #27
    steelcomp
    Here's another idea...removable wiring connector. Unplug it when launching and retrieving. (sorry about the big pic)
    http://www2.***boat.com/image_center...729boweye1.jpg

  8. #28
    GofastRacer
    Here's another idea...removable wiring connector. Unplug it when launching and retrieving. (sorry about the big pic)
    http://www2.***boat.com/image_center...729boweye1.jpg
    Looks like that's a Competitive like mine with the best hitch there ever was made, I have the same plug deal, only way to go!..

  9. #29
    steelcomp
    That it is!! Does yours have the bar forward-mounted like this?? So far, this is the only one I've seen. I kinda like it.

  10. #30
    wsuwrhr
    Here's another idea...removable wiring connector. Unplug it when launching and retrieving. (sorry about the big pic)
    Trailer lights?
    What the hell are those for?
    Brian

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