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Thread: New Project Introduction - 1976 CobraJet

  1. #1
    Wasted Income
    Hey everyone, I'm new here, but I'd like to introduce my new project. She's a 1976 CobraJet. 18', and originally came with a Hardin Marine 455 Olds and a Berkley JC-A pump. I picked her up for $650. Here's what it looked like the day I picked it up.
    http://www.jostmotorsports.com/cobrajetboat1.jpg
    http://www.jostmotorsports.com/cobrajetboat2.jpg
    http://www.jostmotorsports.com/cobrajetboat3.jpg
    My brother and I started gutting it a couple of weeks ago, which begins my restoration project. I'm a newbie to boats like these (and to a certain extent, boating in general), so it seems like it's in *OK* shape to me. It was non-running, there is a hole in the bow that was repaired kind of cheaply (which I plan on re-doing), there is a lot of stress cracks in the gelcoat, and the transom is rotten.
    I got the motor and pump out a couple weeks ago, and got the motor tore down. It was tight when I got it, and after I got it tore down, I found out why...rust in every cylinder, valves rusted to the seats, all sorts of sand in the cooling jacket in the block, etc. I gave the engine away to a buddy that I work with who is a total Olds nut. I know that he'll do something good with it.
    Here's a couple pictures of some of the work.
    http://www.jostmotorsports.com/cobrajetboat4.jpg
    http://www.jostmotorsports.com/cobrajetboat5.jpg
    http://www.jostmotorsports.com/cobrajetboat6.jpg
    As we started to dig into it further, I've come to the conclusion that the floor is also soft, so it's already beginning to get more involved than I had expected...
    After doing some reading here about rotton transoms, I began to chisel the transom wood away, while leaving the outer 'glass skin intact. It went pretty easily, but it still needs to be cleaned up a little bit.
    http://www.jostmotorsports.com/cobrajetboat7.jpg
    What kind of plywood should I use to replace the transom, and where would be a good place to source it?
    Here's what it looks like as of last night, I'm hoping to have it back on the water by next summer.
    http://www.jostmotorsports.com/cobrajetboat8.jpg
    I know there's a lot of work ahead, but that's the fun of doing it yourself, right?? Basically, I'll be around a lot asking a lot of newbie questions and looking for some guidance from the seasoned veterans out there.
    Later!
    -Jeff

  2. #2
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Feb 2009
    Posts
    1,820
    welcome to the world of boating.
    b=break
    o=out
    a=another
    t=thousand
    good luck.
    pat(slotracer) :coffeycup

  3. #3
    IMPATIENT 1
    WELCOME TO THE BOARDS WASTED.YOU'LL LEARN ALOT HERE.THERE'S ALOT OF SHARP GUYS AND THEY ARE ALWAYS WILLING TO HELP.SINCE BECOMING A MEMBER HERE MY BOAT KEEPS GETTING FASTER.PROBLEM IS MY WALLET KEEPS GETTING THINNER!! :2purples:

  4. #4
    kp216
    Another CobraJet saved!
    They are not "fast" boats, but they ride awesome. I haven't seen one with the windshield like that. Mine (which is a 1978 18') has the walk-thru style, even though it's not a bowrider.
    I had to re-do the floor, center keel and engine stringers last year on mine, but I had it done professionally. If you need any help or suggestions that are specific to the CobraJet, let me know and I'll try to help.
    Thanks for saving her.

  5. #5
    Wasted Income
    Another CobraJet saved!
    They are not "fast" boats, but they ride awesome. I haven't seen one with the windshield like that. Mine (which is a 1978 18') has the walk-thru style, even though it's not a bowrider.
    I had to re-do the floor, center keel and engine stringers last year on mine, but I had it done professionally. If you need any help or suggestions that are specific to the CobraJet, let me know and I'll try to help.
    Thanks for saving her.
    Nice! Can you post up some pics of yours now, and while the resto was being done?? That would give me some more ambition and something to strive towards.

  6. #6
    kp216
    Wasted - All my pics are at home. I'll try to get some up in the next day or so. If you've got a soft spot(s) on your floor, there's a very strong possiblity you'll have to replace the center keel and maybe the engine stringers.
    My pictures will explain more.

  7. #7
    cyclone
    another oldie saved. welcome to the boards. As for the tranome wood, try buy some clear wood (no knots in it) and make sure its good and dry. Green wood or damp wood will not allow the glass to bond properly. As for what type of wood, it really doesn't matter. You can always look for "Marine Grade" or pressure treated plywood.

  8. #8
    kp216
    OK Wasted Income - Here's some of mine for you.
    What the boat looked like before I changed the interior color. For a big picture go here (http://www2.***boat.com/image_center...t=7&thecat=500)
    http://www2.***boat.com/image_center...re_004-med.jpg
    After the front seats had been pulled and getting ready to pull the carpet.
    http://www2.***boat.com/image_center...C-005F-med.JPG
    Carpet and bow support removed. You can see where the soft spot was in my floor just to the left in front of my motor.
    http://www2.***boat.com/image_center...0/3278-med.JPG
    Pulling pieces out of the floor. There wasn't much effort required because of the damage.
    http://www2.***boat.com/image_center.../32710-med.JPG
    After the floor had been pulled up. The floor had delaminated along the edges, which allowed water to get under the floor. When the boat was built, the floor was laid in and glassed, then they drilled big 2" holes and pumped expandable foam under the floor. That foam had become water logged as there was no where for it to drain. When the floor was pulled up, I had water standing on each side of the center keel that smelled like a sewer! I took two garbage cans of foam out, and each can weighed about 100 - 150 pounds.
    http://www2.***boat.com/image_center.../32712-med.JPG
    Check the area in front of your engine stringers. Mine did not have a bulkhead built in. It was simply a sheet of glass that separated the bilge from the center keel.
    http://www2.***boat.com/image_center.../32717-med.JPG
    After all that damned foam was removed.
    http://www2.***boat.com/image_center.../32715-med.JPG
    The new floor! What you can't see (because I don't have pictures) is the new center keel. Also, there is NO foam under there.
    http://www2.***boat.com/image_center...re_025-med.jpg
    Ervin Capps, who is building Cheyennes down in Eureka Springs, AR, did this for me. He replaced the center keel and the engine stringers and built a true bulkhead at the front of the engine stringers. In addition, he put in 1" brass drain holes on each side of the center keel, so if water ever was to get in there, you pull the plugs and drain it. So far, the area under the floor is drier than a popcorn fart.
    http://www2.***boat.com/image_center...re_031-med.jpg
    My engine stringers looked exactly like yours do, with the cut outs near the rear. When Ervin replaced them, he made them straight and also put in 1" brass drain holes at the rear of each engine stringer to allow any water to drain into the bilge.
    http://www2.***boat.com/image_center...re_022-med.jpg
    For big pictures on everything, click here. (http://www2.***boat.com/image_center...er=327&cat=500)

  9. #9
    kp216
    The new seat base supports glassed in. The originals used wood which were not that strong. I used 2" X 2" X 1/8" aluminum angle. These things are solid.
    http://www2.***boat.com/image_center...kets_1-med.jpg
    Same in the rear for my jump seats.
    http://www2.***boat.com/image_center...re_057-med.jpg
    The new seat frames. I used the old frames as the pattern. They aren't marine plywood, but are sealed with an exterior wood sealant. I thought about using resin, but the old ones lasted 25 years and were just bare plywood. I figure these will still be around after I'm long gone.
    http://www2.***boat.com/image_center...frames-med.JPG
    I don't have pictures (I thought I did) of the new seat bases. They were a snug slip-fit over the aluminum brackets. After the seats and bases were finished at the upholstery shop, I attached the seats to the bases with
    1 1/4" X 1 1/4" X 1/8" aluminum angle. I attached the angle to the seat frames with brass wood screws, then slipped the seats into the seat bases. The seats were then attached to the seat bases by pre-drilling a pilot hole, then driving in stainless screws with stainless finishing washers.
    http://www2.***boat.com/image_center...re_063-med.jpg
    http://www2.***boat.com/image_center...re_062-med.jpg
    And finally, we're finished.
    http://www2.***boat.com/image_center...re_064-med.jpg
    http://www2.***boat.com/image_center...re_059-med.jpg
    I hope some of this helps.

  10. #10
    Wasted Income
    Sweet! Thanks a lot. Your finished project looks great. I got some more ambition this weekend to get moving again on mine. Those pics definitely help. I like the brass drain plug idea as well, and will probably go with something like that.
    I'll keep everyone updated on the progress.
    -Jeff

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