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Thread: Project Nordic Bubble Deck

  1. #1
    snake321
    http://img.villagephotos.com/p/2004-11/883775/wood.jpg
    formerly Project Tahiti.
    New stringers, one is good, but not perfect, the other is perfect. I spent 15 minutes in the pile at Home Depot and got these for 25 clams. The $259 boards that the wood shop was gonna order for me couldn't have been much better than this. The wood is still real wet and I'm givin it time to dry before install. Gives me time to buff rails and mounts.

  2. #2
    DelawareDave
    They look pretty decent. Price is right, too! I made a couple of fixtures to hold my stringers in place when setting them. You could probably use 3 to keep them aligned and straight. I measured mine, before removing, without the f/glass thickness so I would know where to put them back in.

  3. #3
    snake321
    hahahah Dave, you were supposed to tell me that 3 weeks ago.
    I'll figure somethin out.

  4. #4
    DelawareDave
    hahahah Dave, you were supposed to tell me that 3 weeks ago.
    I'll figure somethin out.
    I replied to your post on 5-12, 10 minutes after you posted, about measuring everything first. Oh well.
    My stringers are 24 1/8" inside to inside, with no fiberglass, just the wood.

  5. #5
    snake321
    Cut the stringers today . Took a little more doin than I thought. Ripping the bottom angle down 14" of stringer filled the garage with sawdust. Had some delays, but tomorrow I go for transom and shopping list of fiberglass that I'm missing. Dam you Dave, you're gettin way ahead of me....

  6. #6
    DelawareDave
    Cut the stringers today . Took a little more doin than I thought. Ripping the bottom angle down 14" of stringer filled the garage with sawdust. Had some delays, but tomorrow I go for transom and shopping list of fiberglass that I'm missing. Dam you Dave, you're gettin way ahead of me....
    Save the sawdust, if you haven't already tossed it. I swept the floor and ran the sawdust and f-glass grinding dust thru a kitchen screen thingy, and saved it. It is a whole lot cheaper than the commercial fillers in the store, like cabosil, etc. I used it to make thickened epoxy "glue" when I set the center keel board, and the stringers.
    And I have had mine since Sept or October, '05, so I did have a head start on ya.

  7. #7
    snake321
    I have a cellar full of sawdust where I'm usually cuttin stuff. Tomorrow I'll save it all up. I seemed to run out of boat time lately. Hard to keep my fingers in everything..

  8. #8
    snake321
    got transom today. 3/4" sanded plywood. Gonna try to get some time tomorrow to make a template.

  9. #9
    502 JET
    Marine plywood?
    Its only about double the price.Standard plywood can have voids/air pockets all the way thru it.The marine stuff is solid.You can also fill the voids in the standard plywood with epoxy.But the time spent and the epoxy the marine stuff works out to be the same price and will last alot longer.
    Three years ago I replaced the floor in my 79 22' Crestliner cuddy for the second time.The first time I replaced the floor I used exterior grade plywood it lasted 10 years.This time I had to replace two bulkeds and the center floor under the fuel tank and the entire deck flooring.This time I used the marine grade wood 6 gallons of resin and alot of fiber glass mat.Before I installed any wood I resin coated the bottom of it when finished all the wood was encapsulated in resin.This boat will last for 27 more years.When I was done with my time included (3 months straight almost every day after work and the weekends) I invested over $6000. in a $3000. boat.Once you get addicted to the itchy prickly sensation its alot of fun. :rollside:

  10. #10
    DelawareDave
    I used exterior grade, sanded 2 sides, 3/4" plywood, with 7 plies, instead of the normal stuff with 5 plies. Floor and transom.
    502- I know where you're coming from- invest 6K in a 3K boat! The itching sux, tho.

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