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Thread: Hilborn Injection Problems

  1. #21
    FlatRat
    I just came in from the shop.I turned the B/V four flats leaner,seemed better but still pissed fuel out the airbleeds.The poppets,I believe are in correctly.The secondary has an s-4 with a arrow for fuel flow and the main is one of those with a quick disconnect.Fuel flow is against spring pressure,right?I did however pull the secondary fitting off of the B/V and there is spring and a shim.So why would I have a spring/shim in B/V and run a bypass can with a heavy spring and poppet?An Alky b/v ?How would check this?The injector itself had #6 nozzles in it.I want to thank all of you for taking the time to try and steer me in the right direction.I'll keep diggin' till I get it. :boxed:
    I have good selection of springs,pills and shims.

  2. #22
    Fiat48
    send pictures. Complete injector, fuel system and all you can show me.

  3. #23
    GofastRacer
    Well just got back from a road trip that lasted wayyyy to long than planned so I'm way behind, But man o man I can't believe how such a no brainer thing has escalated into such a high tech program that Einstein couldn't even figure out, LOL... But right now the main priority is :sleeping: :sleeping: :sleeping: Over and out!...

  4. #24

  5. #25
    Fiat48
    The fuel goes into the injector through the top of the barrel valve.
    The secondary comes out the side of that barrel valve and to this tank deal you made. I am not sure about that. I prefer return fuel to go into the top of the tank like you have done with the main can.
    I see the main jet quick change. Spring it came with is fine. Double check it is facing correctly..poppet toward fuel pressure.
    Put at least a 120 pill in that thing. Youll probably end up with about a 150.
    You mentiona a 6a nozzle the injector came with. I sure hope it has a 9a now.
    Consult Gofastracer or Moneypitt on this nozzle size. I think a 9a is what you want.
    I would:
    Put a leak tester line to the top of the barell valve.
    Cap off the secondary.
    See what the leak is.
    Set the leak by adjusting the leak to approx 18%. This is just a temp setting.
    Take the secondary can apart...install a light spring in there...maybe 6lbs..8 lbs...I think Moneypitt said that was a .016 wire spring. I want that secondary bypassing some fuel at idle back to the tank. No pill in that secondary.
    I would move that secondary to where it could return fuel to the top of the T tank so I knew there was no restriction. I am not saying what you have wont work. I want to go with what I know works.
    Fire the thing....you will probably have to adjust the barell...but at least you will know where it is at to start with.
    Adjust throttle blades for idle rpm.
    Adjust barrel valve link for idle mixture. Lean barrel valve till slight hesitation when the throttle is yanked opened. Richen barell valve till no hesitation.
    Then richen barrell 2 more flats from there....for extra fuel for load.
    Thats a baseline. I cannot see why fuel would come out the air bleeds if all is set this way. If it does...then maybe...just maybe the thing does have an alky spool in it or something out of the norm.

  6. #26
    GofastRacer
    Well, everything looks ok except for the return line from the surge tank to the t-tank, it should be at the same level as the feed line so there is room at the top of the tank for the returns, this way the tank will be too full so the secondary needs to be moved to the t-tank and it needs to run direct, not t'd into another line!. Normally the returns would go to the surge tank in the side(look at mine), if you put them on the top you need to make deflectors otherwise the fuel will become airaited, both the main and secondary are like a fire hose when working!.... Nozzles need to be 9A's for that size motor... The quick change can is not Hilborn so use what ever spring that came with it, the lenght of the can may be a different lenght than a Hilborn so the same spring in one or the other will give a different pressure. That spring may or not be the ideal one but it will work to start off with!..... The secondary should have a .028 wire and a thick shim to start off with!... Check timing of the spool, sounds like it may be off?????... Set butterflies at .002, if you have such exotic tools as a leakdown tester do as Bob says on the barell valve, if you don't have one or can't borrow one, undo the line and blow thru it while rotating the adjusting link, you will notice a difference in air flow from closed to open, set it someplace in the middle, when it fires up you'll know which way it needs to go right away, but it will run!(This is not a blown motor).... A note about the spring in the main, since it comes off the pump that means it controls fuel pressure, that means a change in spring affects the barell valve adjustment and the secondary bypass, but that's down the road after you get it running!..... No reason why it shouldn't run!

  7. #27
    FlatRat
    Just came from work so I'm heading to the shop.I will do the changes and give 'er a shot....... This is going to be the day!!

  8. #28
    GofastRacer
    Sooo, did it run????..

  9. #29
    Moneypitt
    Art, he can't get close enough to the 'puter to type............I guess it sounded like godzilla.........Gotta love it...............Ray

  10. #30
    FlatRat
    Well poop,
    I don't really how to say this but here goes.My father -in-law who used to Top Fuel and lots of injected stuff came over to help.The upshot of the deal is he didn't like the idea of the surge tank,so off it came"we didn't do that in the old days".After fuzzing around with it several hours,it didn't pop off at all....nothing.He left scratching and shaking his head.This morning I will re-install surge tank,replumb the secondary and go back to where it was.How fast does the motor have to crank @ start up to produce proper fuel pressure?Did you check the pic of the b/v with the words ''Kinsler AL"...is this Alky? It WILL happen I just don't know when..... :220v:

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