That is cool. I know what you mean about people complaining.
Here is how I broke my cam in. I built a run in stand that has a complete closed cooling system. It will run small blocks and big blocks. I did however have the cops at my house because of the neighbors called the cops. Good thing I broke the cam in before the cops came. They just told me to keep it shut down. Here are some pics.
T.J.
Nice little setup. Maybe some old water cooled logs with a hose hooked up would make it a little quieter and keep the neighbors off your back. Since it is only used for cam breakin, etc, the performance shouldn't be an issue for testing.
I'm also running a Clay Smith cam (300-H). When I asked them how I should do the break-in they (Clay Smith cams) told me to set the timing and immediatly go run it hard. Not to idle around. They said I didn't need to "break it in" like others say to do. JUST RUN IT !
I figured to do the same but I'm old school. Better to be safe than sorry. I did talked to them via email. I was told to run it at 2500-3000 while adjusting the carb and setting the timing. Then get on it. I'm sure I'll have some minor tuning to do to get the full effect. I'll get on this weekend if my starter doesn't crap out again. Thats a whole nother issue.
I'll get on this weekend if my starter doesn't crap out again. Thats a whole nother issue.
good to hear Jimmy...sounds like a good cam!...i like the "noisey" gear drive myself lol...now u need to go get a "good" starter so u can start that thing lol
fastrat
Glad to hear the cam is working good for you. I've had some trouble breaking in a Comp solid cam, not huge, but I think it's around a 280/610. It's gone flat twice, now I get to pull the motor down and clean out all the shavings. I've been told by several builders that there is a new issue with motor oil due to EPA regs and that it is no good for cam break in any more. They recommended a rotel oil by Shell that is primarily for diesels. After break in, then change the oil and go back to whatever you were running. Anybody else heard of this? I guess it's my own fault because I didn't take the inners out for break in.
Glad to hear the cam is working good for you. I've had some trouble breaking in a Comp solid cam, not huge, but I think it's around a 280/610. It's gone flat twice, now I get to pull the motor down and clean out all the shavings. I've been told by several builders that there is a new issue with motor oil due to EPA regs and that it is no good for cam break in any more. They recommended a rotel oil by Shell that is primarily for diesels. After break in, then change the oil and go back to whatever you were running. Anybody else heard of this? I guess it's my own fault because I didn't take the inners out for break in.
You heard right. Either use Rotella Diesel oil or there is an additive that i think comp has or gm has for break in. Actually you can run rotella all the time, i do along with many others with no problems. Rotella has more or the elements that provide lubrication. There was an article in car craft a while back about this.
Good deal jimmy. Glad everything went well. I m not sure if im going out sunday, but ill be out saturday afternoon. Have to make sure the starter is up to par....Motor sounds good.
That is cool. I know what you mean about people complaining.
Here is how I broke my cam in. I built a run in stand that has a complete closed cooling system. It will run small blocks and big blocks. I did however have the cops at my house because of the neighbors called the cops. Good thing I broke the cam in before the cops came. They just told me to keep it shut down. Here are some pics.
T.J.
I do mine at home also. I have two of those long cherry bomb mufflers you get from Kragens. There a straight through type muffler that is about 2 1/2' - 3' long. I had the guys at the local exhaust shop expand the ends to the ID of my header & just slide it in the ends of the headers. Use the screw for the baffles to lock them in place & run it. Its not loud at all & Id rather hear any problems as soon as posable instead of waiting for it to get loud enough to hear over open headers.
So I have $40 for the two mufflers that are just like a few other tools I have. Just for one purpose. Then back on the shelf for the next time.
CP Dad The Clay Smith cams basically don't need a "break in" according to their tech people who answered my email. They recommend that you run the engine at 2500-3000 rpms while setting to timing and making any adjustments to the carb. then get on it. I'm just stubborn. Didn't know about the new oil problems. Maybe you should call Clay Smith up or equivalent cam maker and see if they got a cam in your specs.
By the way your CP looks Great!!!
I hope I didn't mess anything up running it on the lake while on the trailer at those rpms. Time will tell. The break in was also for the gear drive.
You guys how do this at home with you home built deals are freaking inventive.
Ty good to here no oil leaks.lol. Cant wait to see you and Mike in the water.
CP Dad The Clay Smith cams basically don't need a "break in" according to their tech people who answered my email. They recommend that you run the engine at 2500-3000 rpms while setting to timing and making any adjustments to the carb. then get on it. I'm just stubborn. Didn't know about the new oil problems. Maybe you should call Clay Smith up or equivalent cam maker and see if they got a cam in your specs.
By the way your CP looks Great!!!
I hope I didn't mess anything up running it on the lake while on the trailer at those rpms. Time will tell. The break in was also for the gear drive.
You guys how do this at home with you home built deals are freaking inventive.
Ty good to here no oil leaks.lol. Cant wait to see you and Mike in the water.It will be soon enough. Boat is running good, had some volt and starter issues last weekend....Glad to see things are running well.
Posting Permissions
Reply With Quote