Reply With QuoteJust got some Valvoline Premium Blue, don't really know the advantages or disadvantages but's it's cheaper, and I've always used diesel approved and haven't seen any problems with tear down or anything.
I have always been a fan of and heard that diesel oil has better lubricating properties at the expense of emissions, and thats why alot of engine builders used diesel oil with additives to break in fresh engines and especially flat tappet cams. I go to the parts store and all the 15-40w diesel oils are new formulations with "less emissions"... what gives, makes me nervous
Just got some Valvoline Premium Blue, don't really know the advantages or disadvantages but's it's cheaper, and I've always used diesel approved and haven't seen any problems with tear down or anything.
Not worth worrying about.
For a break-in, put in a container of GM's EOS.
Hell, a LOT of folks (incl. me) run synthetics, which tollerate heat even better, and are slipperier.
Thanks for the info guys, had no idea about the paraffin content in rotella but it makes sense and I plan to use the gm additive for break-in. I started to dig diesel oil a while back when a old engine builder in southern oregon told me he loved the stuff for various reasons. But synthetic is clearly superior I use it in my cars just too much $, and I change the boat oil alot so have been using diesel...thanks for everyone's .02 cents, all good.
For all of you who do live in CA, your diesel oil is changing! I am sure most of you know this, but all "diesel approved" oils now have new additives. This is to help lower emmisions in diesel trucks. I know at work we are trying to git rid of all of our older oil before we start selling the newer oil. Motorcraft and Chevron both told us not to worry that it is completely backwards compatible.
As for diesel oil in a gas engine, I wouldn't do it, EVER. Call Cheverons tech line, they can give you the skinny on why not to.
As for my 455 I built it using royal purple break in lube, with quaker state 20/50. 2 oil changes later, and it is still a happy engine.
I'm not gonna call a tech line but why not run it in gas engines? I'm really not being a smart ass I just am curious what disadvantages are to it. The only reason I run diesel approved is because of my last boss used to compete in Engine Masters build off and what and I trusted him with all my questions. We always ran diesel approved oil in all dyno runs and after when playing around with the toys. So a little more info would enlighten me
I used to own a 6.9L Ford Diesel, and, since wife and I drove 3K+ milea a MONTH EACH commute to work and home, I just started buying 5-gallon buckets of Mystic JT-6 Diesel oil, and put it in EVERYTHING. 2 years went on this way.
The diesel ate a valve, on the freeway, committed suicide, and the gasoline's switched to synthetic.
The diesel was recently rebuilt, the car had 260K miles on it, and the only thing that killed the car was the elec fuel pump died, and wasn't worth replacing.
There is nothing wrong with running Diesel, severe service oil in a gasoline engine. Gasoline oil not meeting diesel service standards in a diesel is BAD NEWS. Diesel service standards are tougher than gasoline standards.
Honestly I have heard many people run diesel oil in gas motors. But as per tech, it contains a higher amount of detergents in it. This is to keep the diesels cleaner due to they naturaly want to gum up. We have had high mile customers put diesel oil in there gas motors, and lose oil preasure. I know this just states that there engine was already shot, and was running purely on sludge build up.
In short new motor IMO it shouldn't mater if you use diesel, or normal oil. High miler that has never seen diesel oil, I would stay away from it, never know what you might clean out LOL.
O.k I also heard another rumor from a few mechanics. I never did just thought I'd get your guys fingers racing on the keyboard to dispute it. I heard if you've got a bunch of crap in your engine such as your oil won't stay clean and what not, empty all your oil and just put DIESEL fuel in the oil pan. Start it and let it run for a minute at idle and empty it and you're oil should stay clean from there on out. I almost considered it once when I left a short block laying around too long before I put it back together. So go on and tell me how horrible of an idea that is so I'll never think of it again
This is the first thread I've ever read that said Rotella was bad.
Alot of us over at turbobuicks.com have switched our Grand Nationals to Rotella due to the "normal oil" losing Zinc and Phosphorus content.
We noticed a lot of flat tappet cam failures that didn't have a very good reason other than bad luck. Turns out most of the failures coincided with the formula changing.
Since most cars made today have roller engines they don't need the extra additives that tappet engines do. I was going to change my boat over to Rotella durning it's next oil change. I stocked up on the old formula a few months ago.
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