Electirc tank switching device ???

[Oldsquirt]

I was also thinking of a way to get the fuel gauge to work w/o having a seperate switch. I figured a couple small relays would do the trick. Just run the sending unit wire through a relay, and have that relay pick up power from the tank selector switch. Presto, guage and tank would work together. When drawing off both tanks I figured I'd use the passenger side tank. If I was by myself, that tank would more likely show less fuel that the drivers side, or at least that was my thinking.
Way overcomplicating the wiring. If you were going to use a SPDT switch for the fuel selector, then just use a DPDT to perform that function as well as the sender switching. DPDT is just 2 SPDT in one unit that switches simultaneously.

[loudpipessavelives]

I'd thought about the valve off my `97 PowerStroke already, but line size is a bit small. I wanted to go 1/2" to eliminate any worries. I was thinking last night about maybe a fuel shut off soleniod ? They would be quite easy to wire in and control in a way in which I desire. But I'm not sure how long the are desinged to be in use ?
I was also thinking of a way to get the fuel gauge to work w/o having a seperate switch. I figured a couple small relays would do the trick. Just run the sending unit wire through a relay, and have that relay pick up power from the tank selector switch. Presto, guage and tank would work together. When drawing off both tanks I figured I'd use the passenger side tank. If I was by myself, that tank would more likely show less fuel that the drivers side, or at least that was my thinking.
Am I way off here ? Anyone know how long a fuel soleniod can be activated w/o damage to the unit itself ?
how big is the fitting coming out of your tanks? if it is smaller than 1/2 in it doesnt make much sense to go 1/2 in does it? i would go the same size as the tank outlet, just a thought i dont know if its right

[Ken F]

Good point Loudpipes. When I had the Tanks built for the new Cheyenne, Duane urged me to have 1/2" pick-ups put in and fortunatly I listened!
Didn't need them at the time, but sure do now!
Chris, as I stated earlier I just went through this switching device deal two weeks ago. With the engine & carb you are running you are going to need 1/2" fuel lines! Looking at my dyno sheets my fuel pressure dropped to 4.1 lbs at 6200rpm with 3/8 lines. That was the reason for the change.
Ken

[1968Droptop]

how big is the fitting coming out of your tanks? if it is smaller than 1/2 in it doesnt make much sense to go 1/2 in does it? i would go the same size as the tank outlet, just a thought i dont know if its right
Already 1/2 coming out of the tanks. I'm not afraid to spend some dough on the 'expensive' unit, IF it's the one. Flat Broke warned me to think things through since I'm not building just a plain OL engine. I don't doubt for a second Ken that had had fuel pressure problems. I want to avoid that :skull:

[Run_em_Hard]

I have the one from IMCO in my boat. Works great.

[Duane HTP]

If you are making some pretty big HP, bend over and buy the Eddie's valve. That other stuff will not handle enough fuel for big HP, and will just burn up a good engine for you.
"Speed costs, how fast would you like to spend?"

[Ken F]

Duane,
yep his engine is almost identical to mine, but a few C.I.'s larger. 514 vs.502

[cruser]

Downside to the IMCO fuel switch besides cost is that the thing is huge! When you put it in a 21 Daytona, it looks gigantic.
http://www.hotboatpics.com/pics/data...switch-med.jpg
Please ignore the mess. It is much better organized now. I found mine on Ebay for $200. Had one defect, one of the mounting tabs was bent, it straightened right out. Whish I had opted for the fuel injection version though. That version has switched return lines also.