Reply With QuoteI would think flexplate set up. Less mass to get rotating. Quick to rpm. ya think???
Which is a better set-up and why? Just curious I hear of people running both.
I would think flexplate set up. Less mass to get rotating. Quick to rpm. ya think???
I switched from a flexplate to an aluminum flywheel after reading a post on here awhile back that made sense.( Sorry I wish I could remember who it was but that info was deleted awhile back). Basically the idea was that without torque converters bolted to them the flexplates aren't near as strong and have been known to come apart during extreme usage(which most of our boats qualify for) If your lucky the pieces go up in the air and fall harmlessly into the water. Not so lucky- through the bottom of your boat or into the person next to you. Anybody else have thoughts on this?
Sangerboy:
I switched from a flexplate to an aluminum flywheel after reading a post on here awhile back that made sense.( Sorry I wish I could remember who it was but that info was deleted awhile back). Basically the idea was that without torque converters bolted to them the flexplates aren't near as strong and have been known to come apart during extreme usage(which most of our boats qualify for) If your lucky the pieces go up in the air and fall harmlessly into the water. Not so lucky- through the bottom of your boat or into the person next to you. Anybody else have thoughts on this? Those SFI approved flex plates are pretty stout. Much thicker then a stocker. I ran one for a long time with now worries. Those aluminum are supa sweet too though.
Now for those stockers flexplates. I had a weight moved one time. I had it put on the other side so it would clear the engine plate. I questioned his weld but got that "it will be fine" story. Well it slinged that ****er off. Went through the bell housing and a grade 8 3/8 bolt that was holding the bell housing on. Got lucky that it was all that happend.
Now I only run good parts. Bad shit happens when rotating stuff comes apart. Have you mag checked your v dirve gears latley?? Those are right by the nuts!
My cruiser has a flywheel with a deal that has splines with some rubber to take up some shock. It's one of those Art Carr set ups.
[ January 05, 2003, 06:55 PM: Message edited by: superdave013 ]
Although the spline drive is the time respected way to do it, the other ways are fine. TCI sells a direct pump drive that bolts to the crank and you just use a flexplate to crank the motor. You would just want to use a SFI approved heavy duty unit. Also, Hughes converters in Phoenix sells a "locked out" converter that bolts to the flexplate just like a regular one, but it has no guts and holds no fluid.
I ran one of these setups on a pretty nasty small block with a P-Glide in my first boat. Spun it to 7000 rpm very often.
I personally would be more scared of a 30lb flywheel spinning and coming apart than a 4lb flex plate. More weight equals more rotating mass.
[ January 05, 2003, 07:02 PM: Message edited by: DUCKY ]
I recommend a solid flwheel. When you use a spline drive, you must also use a HD Borg Warner "type" damper plate (or should). This plate encompasses large dampening springs (like valve springs but smaller). This dampener plate bolts to the flywheel using the clutch pattern. I like to see a "solid" flywheel anchoring this plate. There may also be clearance issues with a flex plate interfering with the rivits on the dampener plate. On a flywheel you machine it for clearance, on a flex plate you can't. If you're worried about quick rev, use an aluminum flywheel. You will get a little smoother idle though with a heavier steel wheel...something to consider with a larger cam idling around marinas, etc. Depends on your priorities as far as flywheel choice I think, top end ain't gonna know the differnece. And lastly Sangerboy's correct, flexplates aren't as strong, particularly the cheap imported junkers. If you're going to use a flex plate in any application, don't buy a cheapo, get a good quality OE unit. my .02
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