At what point would you consider just replacing the underwater hardware just due to time and fatigue. Two factors that are not necessarily apparent. What is the cost of a new rudder 100.00? A new strut 100.00? I don't know exactly. My naive opinion would think thats cheap peace of mind. I'm going to do it to my boat. It spent several years as a blown gasser then seven years as a top eliminator.
a new strut is actually pretty expensive, however i think it is still worth at least considering replacement or talk to costello about cryo treating it. I've seen a strut break before it is not pretty you might think you are not going fast enough to worry about it but the last strut i saw break was on a 9 sec. bracket boat the guy was lucky not to go in the drink
I bought a new strut a few years ago from Barber Welding. I can't remember what I paid but it was the out of line. It came with the cert also. I can get their # when I get home if you need it. They also make struts too.
barber welding att: "lance" (562) 928-2570
Thank you for the plug 030 http://free.***boat.net/ubb/biggrin.gif, BUT we have decided against treating any used props or struts. Liability is too high in that area of the boat, as we just do not know to what extent the piece is already compromised. We are happy to treat new equipment for someone when we run a batch. 058, as I understand it at one time the chrome stuff was OK as long as it had been normalized and re-heat treated, but then how was a racer really going to prove it had been re-heat treated? Too much hassle for tech people. Yes the chrome would also hide any small developing cracks and make detection difficult.
[This message has been edited by Costello (edited February 20, 2002).]
Costello, wouldn't the heat treatment blue the chrome? I know I would be pissed if I spent the money to have something plated just to have it turned blue from heat treating.
Spoke to some shops, apparently irridite coating is legit for tech. I have my strut and prop over at the plater for stripping, then I'm taking them to work and crack checking with dye penetrant. Marine Machine here in Detroit can make a stainless strut, they do all the APBA hydros that way but s.s. might not fly for a drag boat. I also have an Aquamet 22 prop shaft coming, whirlaway, locking shifter, new rudder stuffing box and a new rudder with no chrome. So far this gig is costing me almost 2000 bucks, should have started fresh with a race built boat.
DJ
DJ, if you get this done for two thousand dollars you will be getting into racing cheaper than anyone i know. Do you know how to make a small fortune in racing? Start with a large one.
058, quite possibly so, haven't tried it myself. Perhaps a re-temper is all it requires, this is just my second or third hand understanding of what transpired some time back with the whole plating issue in drag racing. Jim most of the struts are at least 4130 or better yet 4340. Heat treated 4340 holds up to the stresses of Top Fuel, that's what you want. Barber can make you a good one or you can also call Wayne Mettler formerly of Canyon Boats 970-256-7299. Tell him Gary from California Cryo Treating sent you and tell him what you need. He can build you a good strut for a flat. Wayne started racing flats in 1966 as I recall and he built and rigged the IHBA PGF and TAF Championship boats of 2001.
It's scary when I add it up:
Boat 6000
Misc 1000
First BBC 4000
Redo BBC 1000
Blower 3400
Big Bang #1 800
Big Bang #2 1800
Merlin II 1600
Internals 2500
Dart 325's 2000
Chiller 1200
Spare block 600
Plus some more, call it 25,000 or so, what the hell life is short.
DJ
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