Billy:
Is is better to shake the can upside down or right side up? In your case i'd suggest a 4" brush and a nappy roller to get into the chips.
How old is the gel and is it kept outside????. In some cases colorsanding and rubbing will help it to stay shinny longer but if the boat is older it might be time to go to more drastic measures if you want that shine to last.
It is only a 2000. The colors are fine, it is just the white that was mildly oxidized. The boat is indoors all winter but is out in the elements for most of the summer.
It is only a 2000. The colors are fine, it is just the white that was mildly oxidized. The boat is indoors all winter but is out in the elements for most of the summer. You know we've done a few Eliminators and a few Halletts with the same problem. The white tends to go alittle dull and turns slightly yellow until you rub it out only to come back later. Sun has alot to do with it and I know that Eliminator used to put clear gel on there colors (in the mold) to protect there fades but I doubt that they would of cleared the white. All's I do know is that materials are not like they used to be due to EPA issues in So.Cal so I guess you just keep rubbing when needed, unless you want to clear the whole boat.
You know we've done a few Eliminators and a few Halletts with the same problem. The white tends to go alittle dull and turns slightly yellow until you rub it out only to come back later. Sun has alot to do with it and I know that Eliminator used to put clear gel on there colors (in the mold) to protect there fades but I doubt that they would of cleared the white. All's I do know is that materials are not like they used to be due to EPA issues in So.Cal so I guess you just keep rubbing when needed, unless you want to clear the whole boat.
Well that explains why the colors look like new. Thanks for your advice. I am sure everyone appreciates your contibution to this forum!
I just bought a set of fiberglass fenders for my offroad truck. Before I install them I would like to paint them to mach the truck. They come gel coated white. I know I will need to do some prep with body filler to get them perfectly straight or close to it. After that I am clueless. I know I have to prime paint clear sand and buff but how much, how many coats of each. Also where can I find paint to mach the truck. It is 97 gmc white. This is my first paint project that has to look good and mach not just prevent corosion. Any info you could share would be great.
I just bought a set of fiberglass fenders for my offroad truck. Before I install them I would like to paint them to mach the truck. They come gel coated white. I know I will need to do some prep with body filler to get them perfectly straight or close to it. After that I am clueless. I know I have to prime paint clear sand and buff but how much, how many coats of each. Also where can I find paint to mach the truck. It is 97 gmc white. This is my first paint project that has to look good and mach not just prevent corosion. Any info you could share would be great. Are they really wavie or have flaws???. Because if they don't you can save a step and some $$$$$$. If they need filler then your gonna have to prime them, if not you could sand them with 320 wet or dry, spray the base coat. then clear coat. You could remove the gas door or any small part that is easy to remove and take it to your local automotive paint supply store and they can match it for you. Now there is a charge for this, anywhere from $25-$40.00 , but it's usually worth it if you don't know and if you don't have any other colors to help you match the truck. As far as how many coats....If you have to primer them you'll have to put at least three good coats to cover your body work so you have enough to sand down to get smooth for paint. If you break through the primer mix up enough to spot in that area as that will make it easier for your base coat to cover evenly. Color coats I usually put just enough to bring the color up to what I what (or match). After that 2 to 3 coats of clear and your ready to colorsand and rub. Another thing I recommend is to go to your local window tinter and they now have a product that you can put on the area of your flares ( wheel well area) that will get pounded by pebbles or other crap and it will help in keeping the area from getting all chipped up. It's clear so you won't even know it's there. Good luck.
Billy,
Do you have any time to paint after answering all these questions? I think you remember my Cole TR-2 "Instant Insanity". Bill Carter (the other Bill) painted it back in 1982 and Steve Stanford did the lettering and pinstripping. It still looks bitchen even though it hasn't seen water in a few years. The lettering Steve did is over the paint (clear coated pearls). I want to remove and or alter some of the lettering. Is there a clean way to remove the simple brushed lettering without damaging the paint underneath? Thanks in advance for the help.
Greg Martin
Billy,
Do you have any time to paint after answering all these questions? I think you remember my Cole TR-2 "Instant Insanity". Bill Carter (the other Bill) painted it back in 1982 and Steve Stanford did the lettering and pinstripping. It still looks bitchen even though it hasn't seen water in a few years. The lettering Steve did is over the paint (clear coated pearls). I want to remove and or alter some of the lettering. Is there a clean way to remove the simple brushed lettering without damaging the paint underneath? Thanks in advance for the help.
Greg Martin Greg there are a couple of ways but the easiest way is EZ-OFF oven cleaner. Mask off around the name with news paper or masking paper (couple of layers) as the oven cleaner will attack anodizing and discolor it. Spray a small area at a time and let sit for a minute or so. I usually will test a small area at a time to see how long I can let it sit before it starts to react to the lettering, some lettering is thicker then others and will take alittle longer to get off and you don't want the oven cleaner to sit on there to long as it can (but not likely) eat at the paint job, use a bondo spreader to get off the lettering and respray as necesary. One tip...Don't saturate one area, move to the next area and come back to the other areas that need attention later. Now not all the lettering will usually come off so I take 1000 wet or dry (use water) to get the rest off and finish with 1500 W/D. Then rub out and polish. There will be more then likely a dark area where the name was, so then it's up to you from there as what to do next. Sorry for the long reply, I just don't want to see you mess up that nice paint job. Carter was truly a pioneer in the world of custom painting. In fact I went to his shop back in 78 looking for a job and he told me as I was looking around that his insurance didn't cover looky lou's so I left. Hence I started my own business...
Billy,
Thanks for the info. I want to take the "AZ" numbers off of the front and put the new "CF" numbers on. I talked to Bill Carter about a year ago, He is still painting, mostly bikes.
Greg
Where is a good place to get finesse?
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