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Thread: Help!! Runner Bottom Plate Set-up?

  1. #1
    ColeTR1
    How would you set up the plates on this runner bottom? The bottom is not flat is has about 1/4” of V in the center runner where the plate starts. The outer runners are concave about 1/2” and have some V in them from the center of the boat. I put some black tape straight across the back of the boat so you guys can see the shape of the bottom. The outer chimes/rails stop before the plates not like most Runner bottoms, you can see this in the last picture. Cole told me that this is to let air out the sides like a true flat. If I use a straight edge off the bottom to set up the plates, the center plate has V in it and the outer plates are concaved. Even if you guys have never set-up plates on a bottom like this I would like to get your .02 cents on how you think it should be done?
    [img]http://www.***boat.com/image_center/data/500/738setup2.JPG[/img]
    [img]http://www.***boat.com/image_center/data/500/738setup3.JPG[/img]
    [ September 09, 2003, 02:54 PM: Message edited by: ColeTR1 ]

  2. #2
    Cole Man II
    ColeTR1,
    I also have a Cole TR-1. My two outside plates have the same concave, and the center plate is flat.
    I would suggest setting the plate flat with the bottom of the boat, keeping true the the concave. Take the boat out and let it tell you what it wants. The most inportant thing when testing is to only change one thing at a time.
    Cole Man.

  3. #3
    Cole Man II
    ColeTR1,
    One more thing. If you have to make a large change in plate adjustment when bringing the plate back to the starting point (flat), be sure to check that you still have enough throw when you step on the down peddle. If you are running that blower motor you will want 1"-1 1/4". My deal is around 600 hp and I have 3/4" with full plate.
    Cool looking boat, not many TR-1's around.
    Cole Man

  4. #4
    ColeTR1
    Thanks Cole Man, as you can see the outer plates are bent down a little bit on the out side edge, have you played around with making this straight, or making the outer edge up a little?

  5. #5
    BGMAN203
    My pops ran a tr1 for a few years...ill call him tonite and ask him what he found to be the best setup. Oh and enough with the transom pics...lets see some f-ing blower shots!!!

  6. #6
    ColeTR1
    BGMAN203:
    My pops ran a tr1 for a few years...ill call him tonite and ask him what he found to be the best setup. Oh and enough with the transom pics...lets see some f-ing blower shots!!! That would be great if you could talk to him! Thanks
    [img]http://www.***boat.com/image_center/data/524/738boat1.jpg[/img]
    [ September 08, 2003, 06:01 PM: Message edited by: ColeTR1 ]

  7. #7
    scottys
    I'll have my tr-1 at red rock on fri.setting the plates there as I'm running out of time on a year long restoration.I've found starting with the center plate level and working down is 95% of the way the the hull will take and hold the set.Working the outside plates last the same way to fine tune the ride.Hope to see you there

  8. #8
    BGMAN203
    Ill post what he told me tomorrow, I think it will help

  9. #9
    Cole Man II
    ColeTR1,
    The outside plates on my TR-1 are up slightly with respect to the bottom of the boat, but your boat may need something different based on the rest of your set up and HP.
    Something I found helped alot was having a friend tape me making a pass. I could review it several times before making adjustments to the boat.
    My set up is not perfect. The boat still hops once or twice out of the hole before it takes a set, but once it sets its looking real good.
    How close are you now with the current set up?
    Cole Man

  10. #10
    Fiat48
    I also have a Tr1. I also set the plates following the contour of the bottom on the side plates. I set all plates 1/4" up measuring 3 ft under the boat with an accurate straight edge. That's the starting point with 3/8" up the max, depending on the rocker in the bottom. I don't like up pedals, so I remove the up pedal completely and change the springs so that they are always pulling up. When the rod is against the stop, the plates are 1/4" up. I'll post some pictures soon as I figure out how to do that.

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