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Thread: Plumbing

  1. #1
    Jetaholic
    Well guys it looks as if my boat may be ready the beginning of next month for rigging. Was coming up with a way to plumb the motor and think I've got it right. Figured I'd post here and let you experienced guys see it and let me know if it needs any changes and what not.
    http://www.***boat.com/forums/attach...1&d=1168303037

  2. #2
    jbone
    Is there a reason why the sand strainer would not go first, directly from the pump supply?
    I say that because those valves have a way of getting filled with sand and clogging.
    J

  3. #3
    Jetaholic
    Is there a reason why the sand strainer would not go first, directly from the pump supply?
    I say that because those valves have a way of getting filled with sand and clogging.
    J
    No...just where I thought to put it. This is why I posted this here...thanks for that tip.
    I guess my way of thinking was that it would strain out stuff from the garden hose supply as well when I'm runnin' dry on the trailer. But it can be moved.

  4. #4
    Fire Water
    I didn't see any plumbing for an oil cooler. If you plan on making any long runs I would strongly suggest putting in an oil cooler. Jets are noted for having low water temp and high oil temp. My cooling water for the engine passes thru the oil cooler first. This way the incoming water is preheated so I can avoid thermal shock when running in cold water. I also use an Earl's sandwich style oil thermostat to keep the oil temp consistant. From the oil cooler water outlet my water goes to the engine and I use a bypass thermostat. Make sure you have both a water temp gage and an oil temp gage. Just my .02.
    Almost forgot. Are you going to use a pressure regulator? High block pressures can cause major problems. I regulate my system to 16 psi.

  5. #5
    Heatseeker
    You might consider using only one overboard from the engine. The reason I say this is that it will keep the water in the engine a little longer(allowing a little heat build up) and provide a little pressure in the block to help purge the air pockets. If the outlets allow more volume to flow than the inlet does, you may not build any kind of block pressure and you may experience "hot spots" in the engine. Just my theory...
    Also, I've found that the exhaust metering valve wasn't needed. The Bander-valve has some very small passages restricting the flow already. I like alot of water to help keep the chrome on my pipes from getting discolored. Most guys still run the valve, but I left mine out without any problems.
    Otherwise, you got about the same thing as I do going on.

  6. #6
    Jetaholic
    I didn't see any plumbing for an oil cooler. If you plan on making any long runs I would strongly suggest putting in an oil cooler. Jets are noted for having low water temp and high oil temp.
    I hadn't planned on putting an oil cooler in, but I have been known to want to do some long runs so I might actually consider doing that.
    Almost forgot. Are you going to use a pressure regulator? High block pressures can cause major problems. I regulate my system to 16 psi.
    That's what the water bypass valve is in the schematic.
    You might consider using only one overboard from the engine. The reason I say this is that it will keep the water in the engine a little longer(allowing a little heat build up) and provide a little pressure in the block to help purge the air pockets. If the outlets allow more volume to flow than the inlet does, you may not build any kind of block pressure and you may experience "hot spots" in the engine. Just my theory...
    Hadn't thought of this...good advice.
    Also, I've found that the exhaust metering valve wasn't needed. The Bander-valve has some very small passages restricting the flow already. I like alot of water to help keep the chrome on my pipes from getting discolored. Most guys still run the valve, but I left mine out without any problems
    This is also very good to know. Thanks.
    Keep the cool tips comin' guys!

  7. #7
    squirt
    I run the metering valve, I don't like alot of water out the pipes tho. I'd plumb it in and run it the way you choose, wide open or pinched down. Yep sand will stick the valve.........and fill an engine block too! If ya ever have a problem with a stuck valve just get ahold of me and we'll get it fixed.
    Don

  8. #8
    sanger rat
    Supply water to the banderlog valve before the bypass.

  9. #9
    Jetaholic
    Supply water to the banderlog valve before the bypass.
    Yep...that's how it is in the diagram. Figured that so that you get full pressure and can turn the pressure down if need be.

  10. #10
    squirt
    Supply water to the banderlog valve before the bypass.
    Doh:redface: :redface: :redface: missed that

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