Plumbing

[sanger rat]

Yep...that's how it is in the diagram. Figured that so that you get full pressure and can turn the pressure down if need be.
In your picture you have it after the bypass. Yes, you want full pressure.

[steelcomp]

I know this can be controversial, but think about filing the block from the two drain holes in the bottom/ sides. Drill and tap to 3/8 pipe, and use a #8 fitting. I've done this for years, and never had a problem. More even heat distribution through the block, and it keeps what crap might be in there, in suspension. I've never had a block fill with sand.
Also, you really don't need a bypass valve, just run a regular 1/2" NPT water pressure regulator, and save some plumbing.
Just a thought.
Sanger Rat...I like your signature.

[squirt]

I know this can be controversial, but think about filing the block from the two drain holes in the bottom/ sides. Drill and tap to 3/8 pipe, and use a #8 fitting. I've done this for years, and never had a problem. More even heat distribution through the block, and it keeps what crap might be in there, in suspension. I've never had a block fill with sand.
Also, you really don't need a bypass valve, just run a regular 1/2" NPT water pressure regulator, and save some plumbing.
Just a thought.
Sanger Rat...I like your signature.
Dang steel never even occured to me to plumb incomming water there....kinda like that idea And yep like that JBG line too just next time watch out for those quick right hand turns
Don

[sanger rat]

Thank Steel. Just wish I could have been there to see it.

[steelcomp]

Thank Steel. Just wish I could have been there to see it.
Every dog has his day.

[steelcomp]

Dang steel never even occured to me to plumb incomming water there....kinda like that idea And yep like that JBG line too just next time watch out for those quick right hand turns
Don
Don, I'm going to pre-empt the typical arguement here...usually someone will say that engineers designed the engine to be fed from the front, and that's true...for an enclosed circulation system where the water and engine reach a common operating temp, but that's not the case, here.
Yeah, those quick shutdowns in rough water can be a biOch! I thought I was going swimming. :jawdrop:

[Jetaholic]

In your picture you have it after the bypass. Yes, you want full pressure.
You know what? You're right! Gotta change that.

[Wicked Performance Boats]

Steelcomp, If you feed the block with water on the side of a bbc, what makes the water go around the front 2 cylinders on each side? there is no hole in the front of the head gasket to circulate whats there up into the head. How does it keep all the cylinders even temp? standard bbc head gaskets are meant to have the water flow in the front down in between the cylinders, up to the head and foward and out at thermostat housing. Do you punch holes in the head gasket at the front? Pat

[drysumpjet]

[QUOTE=steelcomp;2330081]I know this can be controversial, but think about filing the block from the two drain holes in the bottom/ sides. Drill and tap to 3/8 pipe, and use a #8 fitting. I've done this for years, and never had a problem. More even heat distribution through the block, and it keeps what crap might be in there, in suspension. I've never had a block fill with sand.
I like adding water down there too but I do it a little differently. In addition to the water piped to the front, I add water to the back too by silversoldering brass bungs on the rear freezeplugs, (between cylinders 5&7 on the left and 6&8 on the right)
My water exits in multiple places too. It exits in the typical thermostat location and also at the the rear of each cylinder head...at the water block offs on the intake manifold. (I drilled and tapped the rear intake manifold blockoffs)
Totally agree on the importance of more heat distribution, at least for me, as these modifications have resulted in more consistant spark plug readings.
I also noticed that while cruising, I can feel (by hand) a more even temperature around the block. Too hairy to do while at speed!--watch out for those belts!

[Wicked Performance Boats]

Drysumpjet, Is this application you have a race deal or an everyday river cruiser? I've always tried to run a constant temp in the block so it will promote better ring seal. Isn't what your doing kinda like removing the thermostat in a car? If the water flows too fast and dumps half before it makes it half the way through the system, How does that promote good ring seal? Do you build tighter piston to wall clearance? Do you suffer from blow by and have to have a breather catch system? I always thought that with a constant cold water source like a boat has, that we should have head gaskets that are solid[no flow between block and head] and we make the block water regulated to promote good constant water temp for ring seal, and straight cold water to and from the heads to keep detonation to a minimum. BL:idea: