Reply With QuoteDoes anybody know if I can use the more "normal" fiberglass reinforced filler for the final touch up and finishing or should I just stick with the West System Epoxy with some more of their colodial silica?
Capping is when you remove the rub rail and perminately bond the top of the boat to hull. Extra work but personally I think it looks really clean and is worth the work.
ah... thanks for the clarification.
You're right... the rub rail looks kinda ugly.
Does anybody know if I can use the more "normal" fiberglass reinforced filler for the final touch up and finishing or should I just stick with the West System Epoxy with some more of their colodial silica?
use the micro light fairing filler for final. Lot easier to sand....
i work at west marine and only sell west systems to anybody thats doing glass work, best stuff by far
use the micro light fairing filler for final. Lot easier to sand....
Thanks. I went with the 406 for most of the work but that stuff is HARD to sand for any final finishing. I'll try to 409 or 410 like you suggest
For the record I ended up going with 407 for a filler additive on the last layers. This stuff sands like butter! Nice and smooth and easy. I love it.
Okay, everything is sanded and blocked out and looks really good. Now come the next question of primers/sealers. Can I lightly sand it down to provide a good mechanical bond and apply a Epoxy primer like DP40 and get a good mechanical and chemical bond? My experiance (cars only) was to put a coat of something like DP40 reduced to serve as a primer/sealer. From here I would lay on a high build primer/surfacer like K-200 and start my blocksanding. I realize these paints are probably old school now but hopefully you get the drift of what I'm trying to do.
Thanks again for all of your help......john
I just got done going through this process. I sanded the gel coat with 80 grit then sprayed it with PCL epoxy primer. Then I used a white sealer made by House of Kolor and just stayed with there product. If you are going to use PPG for top coat I would try use all there products, sealers and such. You could still use PCL primer it works really well. You can sand and block it then reprime. Good luck
Thanks Lefty. That looks like the direction I'm going to go. You have any pictures of your boat while you were working on it? I always like to see project pictures.
Thanks again......John
Okay, everything is sanded and blocked out and looks really good. Now come the next question of primers/sealers. Can I lightly sand it down to provide a good mechanical bond and apply a Epoxy primer like DP40 and get a good mechanical and chemical bond? My experiance (cars only) was to put a coat of something like DP40 reduced to serve as a primer/sealer. From here I would lay on a high build primer/surfacer like K-200 and start my blocksanding. I realize these paints are probably old school now but hopefully you get the drift of what I'm trying to do.
Thanks again for all of your help......john
PPG doesn't sell the K-200 anymore. Too many VOCs I was told. I switched to Marhyde Ultimate 2K (Purple can) It actually works much better in my opinion. It sets up faster and is much easier to sand. K-200 always seemed to gum up the paper like it wasn't set off completely. Plus if you hosed it on too heavy it would develop tiny pinholes or bubbles. The Marhyde doesn't do this. I apply it over DP epoxy all the time. I'm in autobody and haven't seen much that DP won't stick to. I'm no marine expert but hope this helps.
Posting Permissions