Reply With QuoteJust do it, you may be at midlift at the cam, but not at the valve. Set your pushrod to stock length and set for zero lash, then move through its motion...experiment with some different length settings and you will see what I am talking about.
Could be mistaken but I believe that was drawn by Miller during the very short time he worked for them, and like I thought, they were dumb enuff to take it out.
Just do it, you may be at midlift at the cam, but not at the valve. Set your pushrod to stock length and set for zero lash, then move through its motion...experiment with some different length settings and you will see what I am talking about.
Yes. All that history is on the Miller site. And probably those instructions or referall about those instructions are there too. Somewhere in all that vast info he has.
Not trying to but in here but I noticed in this months, "chevy high performance magazine" that Dart makes a set of adjsutable big block gide plates. they are a two piece part with an allen screw in t he middle between the two halves but they are $200 a set
I think I saw them in Summit for around $40 for a set of four. Don't quote me but it was reasonable.
Just to agree - longer valves will bring your actual rocker arm height upwards and thus require a longer pushrod. If they go high enough a longer stud may be needed. Probably be girdle time too, if not in the plans already.
I don't know why most every BBC checking pushrod is 5/16" - makes it tougher sometimes.
So Shaun, did you get it figured out?
Ya, after using steels method and fiats method i was still getting weird numbers... In the end fiat had me do the marker test and that test showed i only needed a .050 longer push rod. Thats what i went with because it kept the rocker centered on the valve tip and showed the least amount of movement.
I'm not sure what i was doing wrong with the other methods, what was really weird was both steel and fiats method showed that i needed the same length, but when i used that length with the marker test it pushed the tip down the valve tip a bit far and showed a good amount of movement.
here's my build thread in case any of you missed it...
http://***boat.com/forums/showthread.php?t=126180
Glad to hear you got it. I've always used the marker deal. Never tried the 90* method. Have to try it next time.
I have to say the marker method was easy to do compared to the other methods.
The mid lift (Old Lunati same thing) I feel is the best method but numbers you were coming up with were way off base...somehow. I could not pinpoint the why...but knew there was no way such a long pushrod as you were coming up with (for stock length valves and the other parts you have) was right.
For what you had...you shoud have been coming up with near a stock pushrod. I just know this by experience. So I had you do the marker method to get an idea of what was going on.
Sometimes due to the mods the engines have on them such as camshaft base circles,long valves, decking, head milling, aftermarket valve angles etc getting the geometry right can be a real chore.
But always try the mid lift method.
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