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Thread: Solve this Alpha 1 problem

  1. #11
    Ryan00TJ
    BDMar, Thanks for the help. I mic'd the bore dia of the gear and it was way off spec for the maximum size the needle bearing will work with. I have a new GLM set on the way to do it right. I realized you do it right or don't do it.
    Pocket change 22, A Bravo will be inline if I start grenading these Alpha's. I've had very good luck so far not breaking anything. The boat came with a 1.5" raised X dimension. I've added the HD gears up top to both drives, Hydromotive nosecones, run a drive shower, synthetic oil, don't WOT from a stop, get off the gas when the prop gets out of the water, I also have a very light boat 2800lbs.
    I did break my original R drive that came on the boat in 1992. I was running a 150 NOS wet shot on a relatively stock internal Merc 260 with HP exhaust. Stripped the teeth right off the upper gears. Suprisingly the vert driveshaft did not break at the Oring groove where they are weakest as BDMar pointed out. I replaced it with a stock Alpha 1 and that drive outlived 3 beefed up SBC's. My old solid roller AFR headed motor was getting me mid to upper 70's.

  2. #12
    pocketchange 22
    Yes answering "filthyrat' Bravo is much smoother all round. Especially from N to forward, or reverse. The cone clutch is awesome, no more grinding. remember the motor has to be running to change gears, unlike Alpha. The Bravo is slightly heavier, noticed more dead rise on boat. The holeshots are great not having to worry about breaking gears,would definatly recomend one, my current motor is SBC 9.8:1 pistons, AFR 195's aluminum heads, Scorpion roller rockers, roller Comp cam,Edelbrock performer "Air Gap" intake with a 750 Demon carb. This makes a clean 453hp 479tq.
    Alpha would be junk...most of the people don't build stuff to baby, I figure if it wont take my abuse, I'll build somethine that will. Do it right the first time, save the headaches for the hangover. If you want a boat to baby, buy a pontoon boat. Going back a topic, I have Adds i thimk. Granted they are'nt cheap, shit, what is ? What would u rather do, rebuild 2 or 3 A's or set and enjoy a Bravo. Just my 2 cents. hope I helped, without being a jerk. Anyway, good luck enjoy the summer.:devil:

  3. #13
    Ned S
    I put a bravo in mine as well. It was worth it just to get rid of the switch that stalls the engine when you shift.

  4. #14
    filthyrat
    You know, I am a bit tired of the piece of crap Pre-Alpha. It looks like crap muddling up my engine compartment with this and that cables, hoses, switches and such. Most of my friends are either Jet guys or run OMC Cobra Drives, all are sano, and with that give me crap about how cluttered my engine looks.
    I know the Bravo wouldnt reduce much of this, but I think there is a lot of extra stuff that goes into the old drive. Also, I wan't to go faster. I'm tapped out on HP for this drive. If I wanted to go big block as was posted, or raise the X-Dimension on the swap, or supercharge the engine, the Bravo would afford this. But can I afford it? Nice used ones usually go for what, $3,400 complete??1?
    I would like to get my boat over 75, but the current set-up isn't doing it. Sounding like a Bravo is in my future.

  5. #15
    pocketchange 22
    Yes, the Bravo is heavier, for my own piece of mind being more reliable is worth it's weight in gold. For the money people spend on keeping things nice, "bling on the engine" and the paint jobs, the extra $ for the final drive shouldn't be overloked. Most people think that small blocks need to be higher in revs, to make torque, @ 2500 rpms im making 413lbs torque, and climbs to 479 lbs @4700 rpms. Hp comes in around 4000 and climbes to 453 (to be exact) @5400/ 5600 rpm. A 1, wouldn't last 5 min. Even being nice on it. I have ran it with a 4 blade Mirage 24 pitch, got 65 on GPS, @ 5000 rpm. Had a ton more throttle to go, I live on a small, Very small lake. On the dyno this was tested to 6200, can't wait for spring on Lake George NY, like to try a 26 and see. This should be interesting.......I have noticed a smoother ride, also added a external steering ram, yes heavier, but the cool factor..goes without saying. .post pics when I figure out how to get pics onto site. I'm learning boats, still computer illiterate.
    I't is so nice to see people getting along, helping, the bashing on occasion is way cool too. :devil:

  6. #16

  7. #17
    pocketchange 22
    That setup looks very sanatary. I have been looking for AFR valve covers, can't seem 2 find. I wen't a diffrent route and ran serp. belt. Noticed u have the MSD 6 AL, I wen't with the Marine 6AL, marine fuel pump...don't have the marine carb, hopefully won't get bothered.

  8. #18
    Ryan00TJ
    That setup looks very sanatary. I have been looking for AFR valve covers, can't seem 2 find. I wen't a diffrent route and ran serp. belt. Noticed u have the MSD 6 AL, I wen't with the Marine 6AL, marine fuel pump...don't have the marine carb, hopefully won't get bothered.
    I bought them directly from AFR a while back. I don't know if they still make them. The MSD box has been in there since 92 and it works fine. I've been running the Holley 4150 750 since 92 with no problems. Keep the gaskets in good shape to prevent fuel leaks.
    BTW, My GLM replacement gears came this morning and the F gear has a retaining ring behind the needle bearing to keep it from coming out. The defective one did not. Hmmmmm. Down to the workshop to install.

  9. #19
    Rayhill
    Hey Ryan,
    Beautiful Hammond!!! I notice you have the MSD ignition. Did you purchase the MSD shift assist module?
    I have the 6AL, Blaster and Billet dist. and have always had good luck connected to the 6AL white wire. Now for some reason after 5 years the engine runs like crap with the white connected to the switch? Disconnect, runs great, but cant shift? WTH?

  10. #20
    pocketchange 22
    MSD Ignition now makes a "shift assist" look on MSD website, SUMMIT Racing also carries it $ 130 +/-
    pn msd120-4489

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