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Thread: transom repair

  1. #1
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Feb 2009
    Posts
    1,820
    i have a boat that needs the wood at the transom replace what all needs to be done to replace it? thanks

  2. #2
    bikerboater
    I'm looking at the same project in the future. I know that obviously the engine/drive ect will have to come out. Anyone know of a good article on the inet covering this subject?

  3. #3
    wsuwrhr
    A whole buncho fun

  4. #4
    bikerboater
    I'm already aware of that. I've been in the autobody bussiness since 78 so I have seen my share of crappy jobs. Just looking for some tips on how to go about it in the best way. Such as working around the stringers, best materials ect. I'm tired of reinventing the wheel so to speak. I'm sure it's gonna be like building a ship in a bottle no matter how I go about it but thought there may be some tricks to lessen the pain. Thanks

  5. #5
    snake321
    http://www.***boat.com/forums/showth...=116941&page=2
    I had the best luck with a wood chisel. Used epoxy resin and clamped. Make a template with a big sheet of paper. Gettin it out was tough,puttin it back in was pretty easy.

  6. #6
    71tahiti
    I have done a twin cobalt before... Used a die grinder to score the transom from the inside. Score the outside demension of the glass on transom( inside boat). If the wood is rotten, the layer of factory glass should peel off. Then used a chisel to get rotten wood out and cleaned all of the old wood out.
    I then used luan(1/4 underlayment) and hot melt glue to make a template to make the shape of the transom. If you can, try and get the factory glass off in 1 pc. (patiently prying). I was able to. I soaked the new transom wood with resin and put the factory glass back on, bonding them together. Project I did was easier because the transom wood was badly rotted and it came out fairly easy. (if sitting in the bilge sucking dust is easy) lol
    P.s. Lots of cleaning prep is needed to make sure your glass sticks well.... Good Luck

  7. #7
    71tahiti
    Nida-core has some transom repair material if the whole thing isnt rotten... Nida-core.com
    They have very cool fabricating material.. Honeycomb.... very strong when glassed on both sides.... Will never rot.... I didnt know about Nida-core when I did that transom work.......

  8. #8
    71tahiti
    " thought there may be some tricks to lessen the pain"
    Learn to breath polyester, AND LIKE IT....lol
    If you cant handle the smell of polyester, use Epoxy. Has no smell and is stronger but will cost ya more $$. West system epoxy is nice to work with.

  9. #9
    bikerboater
    Thanks for the pointers. Been doing autobody since my early teens so I'm pretty much imune to smells. LOL I assume the plywood gets notched out to fit down over the stringers? I wasn't sure how it was built up originally.

  10. #10
    bikerboater
    Nida-core has some transom repair material if the whole thing isnt rotten... Nida-core.com
    They have very cool fabricating material.. Honeycomb.... very strong when glassed on both sides.... Will never rot.... I didnt know about Nida-core when I did that transom work.......
    I checked that out. I suppose you are refering to the liquid stuff you pour into the space where the plywood would be. Be kinda tough to get it in there I would think. Would be feasible if you could get all the rot out somehow. I could see it being better on new construction. Mines been getting soft for years now so I'm pretty sure it's well rotted. Started leaking water in around the drive last year. Since the plywoods rotted it lost it's clamp effect on the transom seal. I put a bead of silicone all around the drive hsg/hull for now & it stoped the leak. This will be a winter project....maybe a couple of winters! lol

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