I am going to order two sets from Rex Marine tomorrow with a couple of other parts. Tooks a wire wheel to the surfaces and cleaned them up. I will also be using Perma Gasket also in each side. Replacing the regular nuts with stainless steel nuts
Apparently you just wait until they fill half your motor with water and then you deal with it!!!!!
Thanks for the tip genious.
I am going to order two sets from Rex Marine tomorrow with a couple of other parts. Tooks a wire wheel to the surfaces and cleaned them up. I will also be using Perma Gasket also in each side. Replacing the regular nuts with stainless steel nuts
So, running "dry" on the ramp won't get the water out.........But, the manifolds will overheat because there is no water to cool them........But when you're done, the water will still be in there????.......OK, I stand corrected. ..MP
Ray,
A standing body of water won't cool anything by itself. Once the water is heated to the temperature of the surounding material, it acts as more of a heat trap than anything else. So yeah, after you pull the boat out of the water reving it up like a hillbilly or not, there will still be water in the jackets of the logs or jacketed headers, as well as the water jackets in the block. If you choose to run your logs without water flowing through them (which is what would happen when you run your boat on the ramp or in your yard without the hose etc) you can definitely hose the mounting flanges. There are plenty of guys with 460 Hardin marine manifolds with warped exhaust flanges tht can attest to this.
You may be older, and perhaps in some ways wiser; but if you're saying you can run the water out of the cooling system in a jet once the boat is out of the water, you're dead wrong.
And for the record, sarcasm works best when you're right about whatever you happen to be making a smart ass remark about.
Chris
30 PSI can certainly lift the gasket, and cause some issues, but I see your running logs. Pressure test the logs, make sure the gasket is still good at the riser. By chance was the water turned on before the motor was attemped to be fired? Another this, is the flappers can be sucked into the exhaust bell, keeping the water dammed up in the riser, sending it over the riser, into the manifold, and ultimately to the cylinders.
What would happen if you were to put a fitting on the bottom bung on each log (where the drain plug is now) and run it to a thru-hull fitting on the lower part of the stern area so that the water natrually drained out when the boat was not running? While the baot was running, would too much water shot out of that fitting, causing the logs to get too hot?
What would happen if you were to put a fitting on the bottom bung on each log (where the drain plug is now) and run it to a thru-hull fitting on the lower part of the stern area so that the water natrually drained out when the boat was not running? While the baot was running, would too much water shot out of that fitting, causing the logs to get too hot?
Not so much the logs, but the risers would get very hot if not water cooled.
Best way it to turn on water after it's fired, and running, start with a trickle, then adjust to where its coming out the exhaust, at an acceptable rate. Before shutting down turn off the water.
Ray,
A standing body of water won't cool anything by itself. Once the water is heated to the temperature of the surounding material, it acts as more of a heat trap than anything else. So yeah, after you pull the boat out of the water reving it up like a hillbilly or not, there will still be water in the jackets of the logs or jacketed headers, as well as the water jackets in the block. If you choose to run your logs without water flowing through them (which is what would happen when you run your boat on the ramp or in your yard without the hose etc) you can definitely hose the mounting flanges. There are plenty of guys with 460 Hardin marine manifolds with warped exhaust flanges tht can attest to this.
You may be older, and perhaps in some ways wiser; but if you're saying you can run the water out of the cooling system in a jet once the boat is out of the water, you're dead wrong.
And for the record, sarcasm works best when you're right about whatever you happen to be making a smart ass remark about.
Chris
Chris, you run yours the way you want, and I'll run mine the way I want. I followed that procedure to the letter every time I went out. Never had any issues with overheating the aluminum logs or the risers. Never rusted out the sheet metal gaskets at the end of the logs, and by the time I got around to opening the petcocks the logs were dry......The block will trap a certain amount of water below the petcocks, but this too will evaporate rather quickly after a little warming up on the ramp prior to draining. Hot water does evaporate a little quicker than cold lake/river water. Same jet boat for 27 years, no riser/log leaks, water or exhaust....Maybe the Chevy logs are constructed/plumbed differently than the Fords?? Maybe the Ford head design gets the logs way hotter in a shorter period of time.......I sold the logs and the risers, still assembled, a couple of years ago, still running fine to this day, and I'm pretty sure the new owner does exactly what I did all those years......The logs/risers were not Hardin Marine, they were/are Glenwoods. Also never had any issues with running on the trailer with the garden hose supplying the engine and the pump with water. No noticable difference with pump performance, but it is a stocker, no trick work......It's just an old jet boat..........Ray
Not so much the logs, but the risers would get very hot if not water cooled.
Best way it to turn on water after it's fired, and running, start with a trickle, then adjust to where its coming out the exhaust, at an acceptable rate. Before shutting down turn off the water.
But wouldn't there still be enough pressure in the system to push some water through the risers?
But wouldn't there still be enough pressure in the system to push some water through the risers?
Once you shut off the engine there is no longer water pressure from the jet pump.
Sorry I didn't read your post from the beginning I could have saved you a bunch of work.
I had a similar problem with my Mercruiser. I burnt off an exhaust bellow cause no water was circulating through the exhaust. The riser was plugged with rust. I cleaned the manifolds and risers all out and painted them up all pretty and added stainless bolts. Next time to the water dropped it in the engine fired and locked up, full of water. When cleaning out the rust and scale from the manifolds must have broken through to the water jacket.