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Thread: Choosing An Installer

  1. #1
    TIMINATOR
    Some tips for those of you who don't do your own engine installs-how to choose a reliable shop:
    How long have they been in business?
    Did you hear of them through a satisfied customer? someone that had just heard about them? one of their neighbors? or through a lot of advertising? You can't buy a reputation through advertising, although many have tried.
    Look around, do they have any other Hi-Perf boats that are having installs? or are they just an oil change/tuneup/stereo shop?
    Quantity and quality of hand tools and heavy shop tools? Just a roll around tool box and little else?
    Any Hi-Perf parts or Hi-perf install parts in stock? Maybe yours will be their first experiment?
    If the installation will require a lot of braided lines and fittings,are there any in stock? Do they have the proper assembly tools for braided hose assembly? (many users can and have assembled braided lines with a crescent wrench and a vice, but a paid professional should have the correct tools).When they go and buy the required parts will they get the proper sizes of hose? and the proper hi-flow tube-style elbows? or get whatever is in stock and at the cheapest price that they can get? Do they have any experience to KNOW what sizes are appropriate for the application?
    Do they know that a GEN VI Big block Chevy has oil cooler ports in the block? or would they use a $15.00 cheapo generic filter adapter to route oil to the cooler? This would be acceptable for a stock engine, but would lead to oil starvation in a stroker/blower motor and could cause the front bearings to fail first.
    Most engine builders do not have a warrenty that will cover improper installation by an unqualified person or shop.
    If you have a tunnel boat, has the shop in question EVER worked on one? or will they inadvertantly drill holes through the BOTTOM OF THE HULL AND INTO THE TRAILER BUNKS to mount the battery trays, oil cooler, and various line clamps? Will the hull then be deck and lag screwed to your new trailer?
    Would they admit that they made a mistake and fix it correctly, or offer to pay someone to fix it who knows the proper technique to repair a balsa core laminate hull? or attempt a half a$$ a repair and not tell the customer?
    Ask to see work orders of other, like installs and references from past installs.
    Will your boat be the fastest/highest HorsePower one that they have ever worked on?
    Would they then attack the engine builder after their improper install?
    MOMMY SAID THAT IF I COULD'NT SAY ANYTHING NICE, NOT TO SAY ANYTHING AT ALL. THIS POST REFERENCES HYPOTHETICAL QUESTIONS AND POSSIBLE PROBLEMS. IT IS AN INFORMATIONAL POST REGARDING FICTIONAL ISSUES ONLY. No reference is made to any person, human, business, customer, or potential customer. Any similarities to any person living or dead, or any business transactions is/are purely coincidental. TIMINATOR

  2. #2
    RiverDave
    Timm, I'm not trying to start any Bs here but as you're the one that started this topic maybe we could get some kind of answers without some damn moderator locking this thread.
    YOU, Sir are a relatively newcomer to the website and in the short time you've been posting you've set yourself up as a self-proclaimed expert on many facets of the industry. You are relatively well spoken and even the rag has seen fit to include an article or two (I don't know as I don't bother to read it any longer) of yours.
    My question's for you are as follows.
    Who the h*ll are you-> let's hear about some of your background-that which can be verified.
    What experience do you bring to the table?
    Where have you been trained, educated, etc.
    Tell us about your business, how long have you been in business? What are some of your accomplishments?
    Give us some references->...satisfied customers->again that can be verified. How about pics of your facilities.
    What other publications have you had articles in"
    YOU have had some serious allegations made against you and and I for one have NOT seen any rebuttals. I have never spoken to anyone that has had you do any work for them and never read any tributes to you from any member of this forum. Some of what I read on another forum that was attributed to you, doesn't make any sense what-so-ever coming from a reputable "engine builder" and I've been around a long time, both on this website and in the industry.
    Kindly do not attempt to pacify me as this is a legitimate inquiry and do not attempt to feed me a line of BS as, if you've read any of my diatribes you'll know I don't pull too many punches and call a spade a spade.
    I hope we can clear this matter up as I surmize that your reputation is hanging in the balance. This could effect the future of your business as well as your income. When you exposed yourself on the internet I hope you realized that you must take the good (free advertizing, exposure to many people, etc.) with the bad (shady business practices coming to light, shoddy work, unhappy customers, etc). I sincerely hope you don't just try and ignore my request for info as that course of action will not make this go away.
    Rio->Michael Fulton
    Well said Rio..
    Little longer then I would've probably gone with it though.
    Timinator, everything you just wrote was pretty blanket statements that in no way make you an expert on... well just about anything?
    Make sure you don't use a shop that drills and bolts battery boxes through the bottom of the boat and into the trailer? Well gee.. That's my favorite kinda shop? Every single thing you just said added up to zero real input, and to be quite honest some of it is half assed advice to say the least. I'd be alot more interested in seeing work a shop has done in the past, and currently then just about anything on your list. The right guy with a flat head screw driver, vice, and a ball pin hammer can make miracles happen. The wrong guy with the 8K snap on roll away can still screw stuff up..
    I got an idea though since your the expert Timinator.. Why don't you build somethign cool? Anything? A battery box? A cool installation, anything trick what so ever and put it up here for all of us too see. Why the Hype? Why not let your accomplishments speak for themselves?
    RD

  3. #3
    RiverDave
    Wow!! Just read BadKachina's thread on OSO...
    http://www.offshoreonly.com/forums/s...d.php?t=157410
    So in reference to your post above? According to BadKachina you work outta your back yard? Why are you claiming to only goto people that have the bitchen shop, with the bitchen tools?
    Seems like your actually telling people in your post above to stay away from you and your biz?
    I.E. If I took your advice word for word and I showed up at your place, then by your own advice I should leave? (I'm seriously confused?)
    RD

  4. #4
    sdpm
    WOOPS!

  5. #5
    BDMar
    Do they know that a GEN VI Big block Chevy has oil cooler ports in the block? or would they use a $15.00 cheapo generic filter adapter to route oil to the cooler? This would be acceptable for a stock engine, but would lead to oil starvation in a stroker/blower motor and could cause the front bearings to fail first.TIMINATOR
    I will only touch on one part of your post..
    You are aware that the "oil cooler ports" in a Gen VI BBC are 3/8" pipe. That would be a #8 AN braided line with a 3/8" ID. At best the same size as those "$15.00 cheapo generic filter adapter".

  6. #6
    Daytona100
    I will only touch on one part of your post..
    You are aware that the "oil cooler ports" in a Gen VI BBC are 3/8" pipe. That would be a #8 AN braided line with a 3/8" ID. At best the same size as those "$15.00 cheapo generic filter adapter".
    From the pics on your avatar I would go to you to have some work done. Haven,t heard anything good about Tuff Enough performance. Only negative comments. I think it,s a fair challenge post up some pics of your shop and some engine builds. Make people want to go to you not stay away from you. Mike

  7. #7
    Daytona100
    I will only touch on one part of your post..
    You are aware that the "oil cooler ports" in a Gen VI BBC are 3/8" pipe. That would be a #8 AN braided line with a 3/8" ID. At best the same size as those "$15.00 cheapo generic filter adapter".
    From the pics on your avatar I would go to you to have some work done. Haven,t heard anything good about Tuff Enough performance. Only negative comments. I think it,s a fair challenge post up some pics of your shop and some engine builds. Make people want to go to you not stay away from you. Mike

  8. #8
    BadKachina
    First off, thanks for starting another thread Timm. This makes my life a whole lot easier.
    Should we just play your games and pretend that you made a poor attempt to call me out?
    Have some balls, post some facts, post some pictures, back up your bs.
    It's funny, you solicited us, you brought drives in to be rebuilt, it's not my work that failed.
    The fact of the matter is, you built a piece of crap that lasted about 5 hours and you wont stand behind it.
    You can blame it on the oil lines all you want but you know you're wrong. I have the parts and pictures, the oil adapter I put on, after I removed the "cheap 15 dollar" one that you put on, is a billet oil adapter from CP drilled for 1/2 npt lines. This was supposedly about a 850 hp motor, 1/2 npt should have been fine for that hp. The oil lines that you said were inadequate were 10 an with swept fittings, again to a billet oil filter adapter with 1/2 npt fitting, then to the biggest oil cooler CP makes with 1/2 npt and 10 an lines again. This was a brand new install, there was no reason why I wouldn't use parts that would adequate to this motor. You even came to see it before we fired it up and didn't say a word about it. Face it Timm, you have no character, this isn't how you stand behind your work.
    Heres a pic of my install work on the oil cooler and filter adapter. Take in mind this bilge was stripped bare, every wire, screw, stringer washer, paint, cushion clamp, zip tie, diamond plate and every accessory is brand new and installed by me. Here's my shotty work, with my inadequate oil system.
    http://www.***boat.com/forums/attach...8&d=1184944381

  9. #9
    BDMar
    I dindn't realize he was bashing BadKachina. Just thought he was spamming himself......
    On a side note: we prefere #12 lines for oiling, however there are countless engines, blown and normally aspirated, that have #10 lines with no problems at all. Just look at the size of the hole/path where the oil leaves the pump, enters the block, and then leaves the block to the filter and cooler. The volume of oil running to and from the cooler and filter is only as good as the smallest restriction.

  10. #10
    BadKachina
    Here's the thread from OSO where I talk about why the motor failed.
    http://www.offshoreonly.com/forums/s...d.php?t=157410
    The motor is at H&H machine here in Glendale. This guy is nothing like Timm. He built us an alcohol stroker motor for our circle track car and offered a year warranty. You don't find people that will stand behind their work very often. He's been in business 20 years from the same location ( a real shop, not a back yard).
    So we had him dissamble the motor to see if he could find the cause of the failure.
    The entire valve train was phucked.
    What he found was that the spring pressure was so high, and the spacers along with the keepers to up the pressure were causing coil bind. The tips of the roller rockers were flat, the valves had wear on them from being bent, the cam had groves worn in it. AFR, or actually Don at Triad Performance (who I bought the heads from) offered from the get go to exchange the springs for what ever springs I needed. I told Timm this from the get go but he certain he could make it work.
    Tim basically took a set of stock AFR complete heads, set up for a hydraulic roller, and upped the spring pressure with spacers to compensate for a 700 plus lift solid roller cam. I sent the cam back to comp to see if they would warranty it and they said they wouldn't because even they could tell the spring pressure was too high, or there was coil bind.
    Improper valve train set may or may not have killed this motor. It spun a bearing in the front of the motor. I guess we'll never know why it ran out of oil up front, I suppose it could of been the oil system, it could have been the valve train, or if Timm couldn't set a vavle train up correctly, who's to say he can set up a rotating assembly correctly??? We'll never know, the difference between me and Timm is that I pulled the motor for free, I'm putting it back in for free, I paid the cost of all the parts Timm had in the motor, a total of 2500 dollars, and I bought the guy a brand new Merlin block. I stood up for him while Timm is crying about who's fault it is and looking for a place to hide..........
    http://www.***boat.com/forums/attach...9&d=1184945632

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