Help!! Oxidation

[brwn234]

Alright, its not that bad. My white was getting a little dull in some spots. So I ordered a 3 step kit from Mcguires. I started with #49(I think) Oxidation remover. I'm only using a random orbital buffer. Parts of it look good but some spots are very hard to buff out. They almost get chalkier. I spent a long time trying to get it right and only finished part of one side. Theres no way I can finish it like this. I've thought about getting one of those porter cable orbital buffers. I've never used a rotary buffer before and I'm kinda worried about F'n something up. Should I wet sand first? I'm lost, help me out. Thanks

[Beer-30]

Alright, its not that bad. My white was getting a little dull in some spots. So I ordered a 3 step kit from Mcguires. I started with #49(I think) Oxidation remover. I'm only using a random orbital buffer. Parts of it look good but some spots are very hard to buff out. They almost get chalkier. I spent a long time trying to get it right and only finished part of one side. Theres no way I can finish it like this. I've thought about getting one of those porter cable orbital buffers. I've never used a rotary buffer before and I'm kinda worried about F'n something up. Should I wet sand first? I'm lost, help me out. Thanks
I sand the worst spots. The slight discoloration should buff right off. Any hard looking spots or chalkiness should be lightly sanded. I hit them with 2500 wet and then buff. It takes most of the work out of the buffing.
Also, on a whim, I wiped some oxidation along the bottom of the boat with a used up MagicEraser. We were done cleaning the interior, and there was some black hardwater/oxidation lines along the bottom of the sides. I wiped the Eraser across them and all of the nastiness was gone - and it looked like it had been sanded. Very fine "dullness" to it, no scratches. Buffed right up as if it had been sanded with 4000. You might try that.

[DUCKY]

An orbital isn't for buffing. It's for wax/polish application. If you want results you need a rotary buffer. Harbor Freight's "Chicago Electric" line is a good way to go. I have 2 of them I use every day and they run about $40. You will need to buy an adapter and quality pad, though. I suggest 3M's two sided pad, and adapter, and together they will cost you another $30 or so. If you are careful, you won't do damage.
Anyways, oxidation needs to be removed before attempting to buff. If the ox is light, wet sand with 1500-2000 grit paper (always the same direction) with a little dish soap in your water, and dry with a squeegee. You should see nothing but your own sanding scratches if you do it right. I would think that the Meguire's oxidation remover would be aggressive enough to remove the 2000 grit scratches, then go from there. The trick to not damaging is to avoid the build up of heat. Work a small area at a time, and if the surface gets hot, take a break.
Good Luck!

[Beer-30]

An orbital isn't for buffing. It's for wax/polish application. If you want results you need a rotary buffer. Harbor Freight's "Chicago Electric" line is a good way to go. I have 2 of them I use every day and they run about $40. You will need to buy an adapter and quality pad, though. I suggest 3M's two sided pad, and adapter, and together they will cost you another $30 or so. If you are careful, you won't do damage.
Anyways, oxidation needs to be removed before attempting to buff. If the ox is light, wet sand with 1500-2000 grit paper (always the same direction) with a little dish soap in your water, and dry with a squeegee. You should see nothing but your own sanding scratches if you do it right. I would think that the Meguire's oxidation remover would be aggressive enough to remove the 2000 grit scratches, then go from there. The trick to not damaging is to avoid the build up of heat. Work a small area at a time, and if the surface gets hot, take a break.
Good Luck!
Good post. The oxidation remover (#49?) works real good on sanded areas, but I have found it really only works with wool pad for this step. Foam doesn't seem aggressive enough to get the scratches out. After the wool, foam is great for the rest (polish/sealer and then wax).

[gqchris]

An orbital isn't for buffing. It's for wax/polish application. If you want results you need a rotary buffer. Harbor Freight's "Chicago Electric" line is a good way to go. I have 2 of them I use every day and they run about $40. You will need to buy an adapter and quality pad, though. I suggest 3M's two sided pad, and adapter, and together they will cost you another $30 or so. If you are careful, you won't do damage.
Anyways, oxidation needs to be removed before attempting to buff. If the ox is light, wet sand with 1500-2000 grit paper (always the same direction) with a little dish soap in your water, and dry with a squeegee. You should see nothing but your own sanding scratches if you do it right. I would think that the Meguire's oxidation remover would be aggressive enough to remove the 2000 grit scratches, then go from there. The trick to not damaging is to avoid the build up of heat. Work a small area at a time, and if the surface gets hot, take a break.
Good Luck!
Great Post Ducky. I am going to try these steps out on my boat tonight. But Where can I find the 3m pads and adapter? I am picking up a Chicago Electric buffer tonight from Harbor Freight. Are the pads something I could find somewhere else possibly? Lowes or Home Depot?

[Beer-30]

Great Post Ducky. I am going to try these steps out on my boat tonight. But Where can I find the 3m pads and adapter? I am picking up a Chicago Electric buffer tonight from Harbor Freight. Are the pads something I could find somewhere else possibly? Lowes or Home Depot?
Any auto refinishing store. "Refinishers" is one place. Any auto store that handles professional auto paint - above and beyond spray cans. They will have the finishing supplies you need.
There are several online places, also.

[DUCKY]

You are right. The wool pad is required for scratch removal, in fact I wouldn't recommend the use of a foam pad to a beginner as they can really can really create a lot of heat if you are not careful. The wool "super-buff" pad and adapter can be found at any auto body supply store, or industrial supply that carries auto body or polishing supplies. After the rough compound, just wash and dry the pad, and continue with the finer stuff. Good Luck!

[Beer-30]

You are right. The wool pad is required for scratch removal, in fact I wouldn't recommend the use of a foam pad to a beginner as they can really can really create a lot of heat if you are not careful. The wool "super-buff" pad and adapter can be found at any auto body supply store, or industrial supply that carries auto body or polishing supplies. After the rough compound, just wash and dry the pad, and continue with the finer stuff. Good Luck!
Agreed, especially on the wash after compound.
Foam pads should be soaked in water for beginner use. Keeps the heat away until they get a "feel" for the pads.

[brwn234]

Is this the buffer your talking about?
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=92623
Also, I found this website that sells wool pads that are specifically made for gel coat. Does this looks like a good place to buy or do you have a better?
http://www.properautocare.com/gelcocopa.html

[DUCKY]

Yes. I have two of those Harbor Freight buffers, and have had very minimal trouble with them even though I use the crap out of them. Not quite as powerful or quiet as a Makita or DeWalt, but for 1/10th the money I'll take my chances.
On the pads, the double sided cutting and polishing pads look identical to 3M's stuff. I am not sure about the concept of a pad "specifically designed for gel coat".
That orange foam pad looks interesting. I have always used 3M's waffle faced pads (white for compounding and grey for polishing), but you have to start with a wool pad regardless. Either way, I'm sure that the products listed on that site will work just fine, and if you prefer to buy stuff online, go for it. I have just always used the 3M stuff.