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Thread: Water temp

  1. #11
    Big Inch
    Why so many adapters on that oil cooler ????
    I'm sorry but I do not know how to answer this. Could you please give me more detail? I don't know of or see any adapters on my oil cooler. Maybe if you describe what you are seeing by the picture I can better answer.

  2. #12
    cfm
    Good description, thanks.
    Okay, they route it to the exhaust manifolds and then to engine so as to 'pre-heat' the water going in the engine a little bit.
    Again, I would not worry about coolant temp that much. I would check oil temp. If you do not source oil temp from pan (IMHO the best place) I would do it before the oil goes to the cooler. You can put AN fitting in that has a port to 'T' in oil temp guage.
    With no condensation, you probably don't have a 'too cool oil' issue, but who knows when oil is at proper temp to go WFO and also what your max temps are.

  3. #13
    HALLETT BOY
    I'm sorry but I do not know how to answer this. Could you please give me more detail? I don't know of or see any adapters on my oil cooler. Maybe if you describe what you are seeing by the picture I can better answer.
    Look at your first picture, the circled oil cooler...now look to the right of the cooler, it looks like about 4 different adapters at the oil inlet...

  4. #14
    cfm
    I forgot too mention - a water psi guage (plumbed in block or just at very entrance to block )should also be used when using systems like this or any other for that matter with a fast I/O. You really don't want more than 25psi block psi when at WFO and top mph.
    So............oil temp guage and water psi guage and go ripp'm. LOL.

  5. #15
    Big Inch
    Look at your first picture, the circled oil cooler...now look to the right of the cooler, it looks like about 4 different adapters at the oil inlet...
    Aww now I see. That is not the oil cooler. The oil cooler is in the second picture, circled in red on the lower right side of the picture. Polished aluminum cylinder mounted to the block of the motor. The cooler you are referring to is the steering fluid cooler. Those things on the right side are not adapters or lines entering the cooler. There you have the wire loom, batter cables, and some water lines that are just laying there since everything is disconnected. That cooler has 1 water line entering and exiting and the high pressure steering fluid line entering and exiting as well.

  6. #16
    Big Inch
    Good description, thanks.
    Okay, they route it to the exhaust manifolds and then to engine so as to 'pre-heat' the water going in the engine a little bit.
    Again, I would not worry about coolant temp that much. I would check oil temp. If you do not source oil temp from pan (IMHO the best place) I would do it before the oil goes to the cooler. You can put AN fitting in that has a port to 'T' in oil temp guage.
    With no condensation, you probably don't have a 'too cool oil' issue, but who knows when oil is at proper temp to go WFO and also what your max temps are.
    Couple things.
    Yes the water is pre-heated thru the exhaust manifold.
    I hadn't thought of installing a gauge in the method that you are describing but it sounds like a great alternative. Only problem is that the cooler is not plumbed with lines it is attached to the block where your oil filter normally goes and then under that it has 2 remote lines that go to the remote oil filter. I wonder if the oil goes through the filter first or the cooler first. If it goes through the filter first I could run the T adapter there. It is a major task to remove this oil cooler though in order to try and figure out if it cools the oil before the filter. Any input on whether or this sort of setup normally would? Is it possible to tap the oil pan for a fitting to install a gauge there or is that only done with it off because of the risk of metal shavings entering the oil?

  7. #17
    Big Inch
    I forgot too mention - a water psi guage (plumbed in block or just at very entrance to block )should also be used when using systems like this or any other for that matter with a fast I/O. You really don't want more than 25psi block psi when at WFO and top mph.
    So............oil temp guage and water psi guage and go ripp'm. LOL.
    Another good point. Looks like my dash may be getting a face lift soon
    Next question: If it has too much pressure how do I regulate this? I know on my jetboat I had a valve on the intake line that you could open or close more to adjust the pressure. Maybe this would bring up my water temps as well.:idea:

  8. #18
    cfm
    A person in another forum (same topic) suggested drilling and tapping the oil pan drain plug for oil temp sensor since none of us really use the drain plug while in the boat.
    Something you would think I would have thought of a couple of eons ago, but didn't. It's a great suggestion BTW !

  9. #19
    Big Inch
    A person in another forum (same topic) suggested drilling and tapping the oil pan drain plug for oil temp sensor since none of us really use the drain plug while in the boat.
    Something you would think I would have thought of a couple of eons ago, but didn't. It's a great suggestion BTW !
    Yeah but then you sacrifice the little magnetic tip in the center of the plug Plus I have an drain line on mine so still not going to work for me. Actually the line goes out the side maybe it would work.

  10. #20
    Big Inch
    Update after running the boat over the weekend.
    I ran the boat with the 160 thermostat installed. Took a hand held pyrometer with me to take some heat readings and what I found was that after running hard with the water maxxing out at about 170 degrees water temp I was getting oil temp readings of 222 degrees. To me this seems to be pretty close to optimal temperatures and I am assuming that if I remove the thermostat and the water temps drop down by over 70 degrees that it is pretty safe to assume that this will drop my oil temps down below 210 degrees. Assuming this to be true. I would like to find a way to raise the water temperature in the motor without the use of the thermostat. My only experience with this was on my jet boat where I plumbed a valve that would restrict the flow to the motor. I'm wondering if this could be done on the intake line on my boat and if this is the best way to do this.

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