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Thread: Wiring from Scratch

  1. #1
    GAWnCA
    Well, thanks to several of you I got a grip on the plumbing mess I had and now it's time to make the wiring mess as clean as I can. I really don't want to buy a generic wiring harness that has a lot of connections that I'll never use so I guess I've got to build my own from scratch.
    I want to start from the battery and move on from there. Shouldn't the engine area have its own harness and then a harness taken up to the front of the boat for the low amp connections?
    Any and all help sure would be appreciated.

  2. #2
    BrendellaJet
    I did the same thing. It was fun and I learned a lot in the process. I too did not want to buy the generic harness. Easier to make it for your boat, will turn out nicer IMO.
    What I did was first decide where I wanted my terminal block to be mounted. I wanted the wiring to be stealth so i mounted it in a place where it would be easy to hide the wires yet allow access to the terminal block. I mounted in the front of the engine on my direct drive alternator mount, and ran the wires through a gromet and under my rail then to the back of the motor, up through another grommett in the rail and to all the senders/starter/solenoid.
    Having the terminal block on the motor allows easy disconnectionfrom the motor for removal. So yes in essence there is a separate harness for the motor.
    Instead of starting at the battery, I started at the dash. I made up a power wire "in series" for the gauges. 12V power on a single linked wire instead of 1 wire for each gauge. Turned out very clean this way. Did the same with the ground wire. Ran the wires to the terminal block and then worked on wiring the senders.
    Rambling...anyhow, take your time and do it right. Use a nice crimper and heat shrink every connection and it will look really nice. Think about how you want it to look and where you want the wires run before doing it.

  3. #3
    GAWnCA
    I did the same thing. It was fun and I learned a lot in the process. I too did not want to buy the generic harness. Easier to make it for your boat, will turn out nicer IMO.
    What I did was first decide where I wanted my terminal block to be mounted. I wanted the wiring to be stealth so i mounted it in a place where it would be easy to hide the wires yet allow access to the terminal block. I mounted in the front of the engine on my direct drive alternator mount, and ran the wires through a gromet and under my rail then to the back of the motor, up through another grommett in the rail and to all the senders/starter/solenoid.
    Having the terminal block on the motor allows easy disconnectionfrom the motor for removal. So yes in essence there is a separate harness for the motor.
    Instead of starting at the battery, I started at the dash. I made up a power wire "in series" for the gauges. 12V power on a single linked wire instead of 1 wire for each gauge. Turned out very clean this way. Did the same with the ground wire. Ran the wires to the terminal block and then worked on wiring the senders.
    Rambling...anyhow, take your time and do it right. Use a nice crimper and heat shrink every connection and it will look really nice. Think about how you want it to look and where you want the wires run before doing it.
    Thanks for the advice. By chance did you take any photos or have any of at least your motor connections? Part of the dash connections look to be original, all bundled together nicely and then you got to the tach, amp meter, key switch, and it all goes to hell.

  4. #4
    Cas
    CP Performance has a complete wire loom with all the industry standard colors.
    http://www.cpperformance.com/SearchR...CategoryID=109
    http://www.cpperformance.com/images/620-08801.jpg
    you can customize to your needs

  5. #5
    THE BOSTON SIDEWINDER
    go the www.blueseas.com and they have the correct wiring colors

  6. #6
    GAW the wireing is simple and very basic and for those who wish to "do it your self" everything you need including a terminal block can be puchased at Good hardware store (Tru value etc) the original harness typically had red, yellow, blue,brown ,green ,gray and purple wires with 1 (or 2) large red for volt or amp feed You'll need about 25' (on average) of each wire some black tape and a good selection of terminals If you need a "legend/diagram" or tech help feel free to call Tom

  7. #7
    GAWnCA
    CP Performance has a complete wire loom with all the industry standard colors.
    http://www.cpperformance.com/SearchR...CategoryID=109
    http://www.cpperformance.com/images/620-08801.jpg
    you can customize to your needs
    As I was saying, there are too many generic connections that I will never use and therefore don't want to use this. Thanks for the link. I have thought about it and looked at that harness, it's made by or has the name of Hardin Marine on it.

  8. #8
    BrendellaJet
    First off, lose the ammeter. Fire hazard. Go with a volt meter.
    I dont have any pix, but im getting started on rewiring my new to me boat so I've got answers to most of your questions. Feel free to PM or post.

  9. #9
    GAWnCA
    go the www.blueseas.com and they have the correct wiring colors
    I guess they are in the process of rebuilding their web site. I get the GoDaddy Starter page. Thanks for trying.

  10. #10
    BrendellaJet
    Some miscellaneous pointers for you:
    I didn't run a starter solenoid but generally its a good idea.
    Start
    I ran power from the battery to the larger terminal on the starter. From that terminal I ran a 10 Ga wire into a 30 amp breaker and then to the "Batt" Terminal on the ignition key. From the "start" teminal on the ignition back to the starter with a 14 Ga wire to the male connector on the starter. thats the starting circuit.
    Gauges
    From the "on" terminal on the ignition I ran the "in series" power wire to all gauges. One wire from each of the gauges runs to the sending unit. Then a ground frm the gauges(again this was "in series") grounded to the engine block.
    Ground from the battery to the engine block also.
    Charging
    I used a 3 wire delco alternator converted to a one wire. I think it was the #2 terminal wires up to the Charging terminal, and then a 10 ga wire from the charging terminal to the starter/battery. make sure the alternator is grounded well. I had trouble with this and hence I was getting a goofy reading on my volt meter.
    Protect the componenets with proper fuses.(mfg will recommend what size)

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